Shunpiking with Ray

Hi all,

As Mari said at dinner this evening, “we have been travelling all day, but our journey has not yet begun.”  Yes, RON (remain overnight) in Zurich !!!  I was right when I said I sent you my last post from Italy, but here is a bonus from Switzerland.   Car trip from Cortona to the Florence airport, and check in all went well with time to spare.  Mari called her folks to say one more goodbye and suddenly jumped up – she saw CANCELLED on the board for our flight to Zurich to catch our plane to Boston.  Well, you can understand the confusion that ensued, but the problem (it looked beautiful outside) was the weather in Florence.  This very small airport is situated where winds can be bad, and our plane (and others) could not land.  Instead our plane to take us to Zurich landed in Bologna, an hour plus bus ride away, and the plan was to bus us there.  It was obvious however that there was no way we would make our connection.  On the ferry from Sardinia to mainland Italy I thought of the movie PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES with Steve Martin and John Candy and said to the kids, “well we just need a bus to complete all modes of travel.”  I regrettfully got my wish!

Well, we accepted the hiccup, and the bonus for me was to see some Italian countryside I had never seen before as we bused up and over the Apennine Mountains which is totally different from the valleys and hills of Tuscany.  Our luggage had been put on the bus, but we had to then haul it into the Bologna airport terminal and check in all over again.  Once arriving in Zurich David raced to the “transfer counter” and, of course, there we no more flights we could make today, and tomorrow’s Zurich to Boston flight only had 3 seats left.  The agent helping us was very good, and found the best thing for us was to transfer to Lufthansa and fly to Frankfurt at 9 something tomorrow to then catch a flight to Boston which will arrive about 3 PM which is 6 hours earlier than our scheduled flight – just a day later (actually 18 hours later – make sense?).  A call was made to the Best Western Airport Hotel, and we were given vouchers for rooms and meals.

While waiting for the shuttle bus to the hotel we chatted with another woman who was affected the same way, and she mentioned there was a limit on our meal vouchers.  We looked – 20 Swiss Francs for dinner.  Well, if you have ever been in Switzerland, you do not get much for 20 Swiss Francs – we were concerned.  Arriving at the hotel we became a tad more concerned because it had a Japanese restaurant.  But all worked out well (as only the Swiss can do) because there was a special Japanese meal with choices for those with the Swiss Air International vouchers, and it was just fine.  Soup (Japanese, of course) or salad, fried rice with meat or vegatables and beer, soda or wine.  And the servings were good size.  And tomorrow there is a breakfast buffet – in the Japanese restaurant!

When we were approaching the hotel I said to the kids, “you know what would make my day?”  They had no idea, I was surprised!  “Internet,” I exclaimed.  Oh, how we have become addicted to these machines.

It is approaching 11PM and we plan on meeting for breakfast at 7AM before heading to the airport on the 7:40AM shuttle.  At least I can shower and air out my clothes.  I promise I will shave before I see any of you.

My last post from Europe, hopefully?  Bye again, RAY

PS — YEAH SWISS !!!!  After publishing this post I headed in to survey the bath (my room and bath are fabulous) before showering, and there is a shaving kit and comb among the toilet items provided.  Never in the states!!!  I will now be presentable !!!

Good morning, It is Tuesday, the day before we leave, and I am sitting on the patio enjoying the Italian weather and busy researching “on-line” as many details as possible about the sights I saw on Sunday and yesterday in Florence, both to share and to expand upon what I saw and learned.  But it is time to start writing too, what will probably be my last post from Italy.  On July 4^th I had a record 45 visits to my “blog” – a big thank you – readership has dropped a tad, so I hope that I have not bored you.  Of course, if you have signed up for automatic messages to my posts, and just read the email that does not count on the stats that are recorded.  Actually I look forward to expanding my “blog” with SHUNPIKING history and adventures in New England, and as I said this is as much for my pleasure as it is to share.

First thing Sunday we visited an Etruscan Tomb at the foot of the hill that was discovered for the first time in 1927 with a second entrance found just 20 years ago.  

Ceremonial Entrance to the Etruscan Tomb

The Etruscan TUMULUS TOMBS  date from the 7th – 4th century B.C. and are mound tombs devised to cover the dead with stone and earth.  This is just one of the many archeological sites that dot the entire area.  David and Alex had ridden the scooter down, and Mari drove me in her Dad’s jeep so on the way back she drove me to the top of the hill to the Basilic Shrine of Saint Margaret of Cortona – the patron Saint of Cortona who arrived in Cortona in 1272 and died 27 February 1297.  Her story of penitence from sinner to saint is particularly touching and I encourage you to read more.  The mistress of a young nobleman for nine years, when he died she was expelled from his castle with her young son, and returned to her father who also turned her away.  In prayer she turned to the Franciscans for guidance and settled in Cortona.  She founded the hospital but soon lived for nine years as a recluse in silence and meditation. 

Saint Margaret of Cortona's Incorrupt Body

She died with a mysterious sweetness and fragrance surrounding her which those in her presence recognized as a sign of her great grace and holiness.  People soon began to declare her a saint, and she was canonized in Rome in 1728.  On the altar in the church lies her incorrupt body – often the sign of a true saint.  No pictures are allowed in the church, and if I had my scanner I could show you the wonderful image in the brochure I bought, but here is one I found “on-line.”  I walked back down the hill following the path with wonderful mosaics of the stations of the cross  which I later saw the original sketches for in the Museum of the Diocese of Cortona.

Following lunch Mari’s friend who works in the museum invited us down to see the printing

Printing Presses from an old Cortona Print Shop

presses there.  Mari had mentioned my interest in printing, and we got a special view of an old Cortona letter press print shop that upon the owner’s death found its way there for preservation and display.  As you may know I have been a printer since I was 12, have always enjoyed printing and am currently setting up shop again.  This interest and my interest in photography from the same age I am sure helped contribute to my interest in and love of books.

Upon return we headed off to Mari’s uncle’s place in the Chianti country about 40 minutes away for a fishing excursion.  Her Dad loves to fish and enjoy sharing it with Alex.  Her uncle has several ponds on his land well stocked and it usually took all of 30 seconds for Alex to hook a bass or carp exceeding 12 inches – amazing!  It was a quiet spot, fresh breeze and relaxing. Prior to leaving we went to her cousin’s home on the property (which exceeds 150 hectares – about 370 acres).  As we approached I commented to David that I thought it was a condominium complex.  Was I wrong, it was a 14^th century farm complex overlooking a valley of fields with mountains in the distance with a few scattered ancient farms.  The entrance way through a portico opened to a maybe 80 foot wide terrace with a hot tub to the right, and with a pool extending most of the way across which appeared to be flowing off the hillside.  Both the grounds and buildings were spectacular and it was a treat to get this view of the Tuscan countryside.

Monday was my day in Florence, and I arrived by train at 9:50 AM at the Stazione di Santa Maria Novella which was built in 1935 in the “Functionalist” style – quite a difference from Renaissance Florence, but truly a fine architectural example (here goes the architectural historian side of me again).  I had studied the Rick Steves “Renaissance Walk” audio tour, had it with me, and planned on doing the city that way starting at the Duomo with Brunelleschi’s Dome. 

Inside the Duomo looking up at the inside of Brunelleschi's Dome with frescoes by Vasari

The line moved fast (unlike the line for the walk to the top of the dome), and as I entered inside I was able to join an English tour (donation only at the end) which was very well done by an independent group of students, and highly I recommend (Bill and Dutchie take note for your upcoming trip, and I have more to share later with you).  From there I headed down Via Dei Calzaiuoli which is the main shopping street with fine shops for the tourists.  The Steves’ walking tour provides details on both the interior and exterior of the Orsanmichele which was built in 1337 as a grain market.  There appeared to be a ticket booth at the entrance, but I later realized that this is for the performances held upstairs.  The guide explains the statuary going counterclockwise to the entrance at the rear.  Well, what a treat to enter inside and see the extraordinary altar that is as it was installed in the 1350s when the main floor was converted to a church.  I enjoyed the frescoes, internal architectural features, and as I was exiting there was a small hidden stairway saying “free entrance to first and second floors” (Bill and Dutchie take special note).  The vaulted ceilings, WOW, and when I climbed to the top floor the views of the city are one of the highest and since I was sharing it with only a few people, not many people know of this gem.

View of the Duomo from the Orsanmichele

Next I enjoyed the Piazza della Signoria which is loaded with statues including Michelangelo’s DAVID.  On the way to the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio I passed the famous Uffizi Museum with its renowned art work.  It is closed on Monday, but you also need to make reservations for tickets way in advance.  Reaching the river I turned right and got some nice images of the bridge (built in 1345) with its gold and silver shops that have been there since 1593 when the odious butchers and tanners were expelled (they dumped their waste into the river).  I crossed the bridge, turned right and found a small café which opened onto the river where I had a traditional bite to eat before I headed back to see and tour Santa Croce, a Gothic Church built in 1294 which contains many tombs including those of Michelangelo and Galileo.  The disastrous flood of the Arno River in 1966 rose 15 meters in the church, and as you may recall destroyed much art in Florence. 

Artist view of Ponte Vecchio

The small museum with the Santa Croce has nicely displayed many of the works, now restored.  I was tiring after another 8 hours on my feet, so I headed back to the train station to catch an hour earlier than planned train at 6:13 (yes Italian trains are as prompt as the Swiss).  All in all, Florence is a wonderful day sojourn to get a flavor of a Renaissance city – in fact where the Renaissance began.  The main points can be walked in a day, but to fully explore the outskirts and museums many more days would be required.  For Florence I used my Rick Steves audio walking guide and the Eyewitness Travel Guide for Florence & Tuscany.  Having had the opportunity to see innumerable travel guides in the house with 30,000 I recently worked in I can say that in addition to the Rick Steves’ guides I really like the Eyewitness guides which claim they are “The Guides That Show You What Others Only Tell You.”  There are facts, maps, good illustrations and no dated material about food and lodging.

Fra Angelico's ANNUNCIATION

As I am writing I have less than 16 hours left in Cortona before we head to the airport.  This afternoon I visited the Museum of the Diocese of Cortona, which I am so glad that I saved for the end.  This is the museum that has Fra Angelico’s ANNUNCIATION (1436?) which is considered one of the most beautiful wood paintings in Italian art, and worth a trip to Cortona.  In addition there are many religious artworks from churches in Cortona including a circa 1298 painting on a panel of Margaret of Cortona,  which was from the original Church dedicated to her, and painted just a year after her death.  There are also two small statues from that church.  I had this small museum basically to myself, and the audio tour that I rented was very detailed and helpful in an understanding of the churches and development of religious art, one purpose which was to enable those who could not read to understand bible stories and history.  I do not believe I have ever seen so many exquisite pieces up close, including the most detailed and elaborate reliquary from the second half of the 15^th century containing part of Christ’s vest.  I bought the museum catalogue and will get years of pleasure from it.

As I leave for home I have had adventures and now memories to cherish including the time  shared  with family.  But, I have another adventure planned in a few weeks when I cross Canada by train. As it is said, “stay tuned.”  Thank you for travelling with me, yours, RAY

GOOD-BYE CORTONA

What a grand day!  Now remember, I am jotting down my adventures for my own pleasure to remember and “live it twice” (actually again and again).  Also with all my experiences it is hard to “do it all” but what I have always done is to continue my reading and research following a trip to learn more and reinforce my learning.  Of course, I am way behind with my follow-up reading on last year’s week in Iceland and London, and May’s trip to Ireland, but that is alright.  Just having the reading material piled up makes me feel good, and learn by some sort of osmosis.

Saturday is Market Day in Cortona.  I enjoy seeing how various markets are held – a tradition going back in history – and got “hooked on markets” (shopping with my eye and camera only) with the permanent Montreal fruit and vegetable market in 2009 and Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar last year (need to share some of my photos, especially Leeches For Sale – whoops

Leeches for Sale in Istanbul Turkey

decided to add that one now).  The variety and arrangements of foodstuffs in those markets were ablaze with color, but Cortona’s market was an assortment of clothing, household items, and one street had food venders – items to bring home.  What fascinated me are the massive awnings that open up from the roofs of the assorted trucks.  Most towns here have markets at various times, in fact when we were in Palau on Sardinia eating after the day on the water, the market was setting up at 8 PM.  The vendors must be constantly travelling from town to town with their rigs.

Cortona Italy Saturday Market - Note Awnings on the Vehicles

The plan for the day was for David, Mari and I to visit Assisi and Perugia (current home of Amanda Knox you may recall).  Mari wanted to wait until the intense heat subsided, and we headed off about 3:15 arriving in Assisi at 4 PM.  What a special treat. Before ascending the hill we stopped at The Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels in Portiuncula.  The basilica was built to

The Porziuncola inside the Basilica

contain St. Frances’ original church and the Transitus Chapel where he died on October 3, 1226 at the age of 44.  It was at this spot that Saint Francis in the early 13^th century found an abandoned and secluded church dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and he restored it, eventually it became the first headquarters for the Friars Minor.   I must at this point say that if it were not for the religious journey I traversed with Cathy I would not have as strong an appreciation that I have had for the historical spiritual sites that I have seen.  I am really anxious to begin my post-journey research on the rule of the Popes following the Romans, and the Renaissance art as it developed in the churches.

We then drove up the hill to the Town of Assisi , and parked at the uppermost lot and walked down through this Medieval city to the Basilica of San Franceso.  Now, Cortona has been a tourist destination for several decades, but Assisi has been a pilgrimage site for almost 800 years.  In my studies of the development of vacations and tourism the origins trace back to the trips made by Pilgrims to religious sites – oh, I have put “on my list” to write a bibliography of my library on tourism, and my collection includes Pilgrimages, The Grand Tour, Camp Meeting Grounds, Seaside and Mountain Resorts, Early Roads and Travel in the US, and Roadside Americana. 

The Town of Assisi itself seems to be larger than Cortona, and with wider streets.  David noted that the construction is of different types of stones – rose colored and bright white colored.  We strolled the streets down to the Basilica and marveled at the frescos in the Upper Church which was begun in 1228 shortly after Saint Frances’ death.  These frescos by Giotto, Mari

Tomb of St. Francis in the Crypt

explained, are the first examples of art representing depth and three dimensions, albeit primitive. A delight to see, but even grander in the lower crypt is the Tomb of St. Francis that was found again in 1818.  By 7 PM we completed our exploration of the town walking back up the hill to the car and headed for Perugia.

Now, as I have said, I am not a city person.  I briefly read about Perugia “on-line” but I did not bring my books on Umbria so I could not “bone-up” on Assisi and Perugia.  As we approached Perugia I wondered why we were coming as it looked so new (population of the area over 250,000).  David and Mari laughed at me, “just wait.”   Well, we parked in a modern car park surrounded by modern buildings. I decided to leave my camera in the car.  Off we went up the hill travelling on maybe 13 or 15 escalators interspersed with as many flights of stairs, one in a hidden alleyway, and soon we reached another escalator.  Mari said, “we are now entering the castle!”  Words cannot describe the magnitude of the climb, and the feeling as you reach the bowels of a cavernous castle with barrel vaulted ceilings, nooks crannies, stairs, and yes one more escalator which deposited us on the top of the hill in the middle of an Etruscan city, modernized in the Middle Ages (and not since), and in the middle of the Umbria Jazz Festival.    Was I ever surprised – the city is magnificent and essentially unchanged, and fun-loving crowds I actually enjoyed being in.   

We walked around, browsed, and sat on some steps in the main square and listened to a group from Nashville that started at 9 PM.  After awhile we found a small restaurant on a side alley whose kitchen and some dining was in one building, and around the corner down another alley was another dining area including a canopied alley.  Really fun, and we finished up just before 11 PM, in time to get back to the square almost at the foot of the stage with about 25,000 plus or minus 5,000 of our closest new friends (tightly packed close). The first time that crowds have been fun for me.  David wanted to hear  a very talented jazz band he had heard before with fantastic music all choreographed as they constantly moved around the stage.  We left shortly after midnight and arrived back by 1 AM today, Sunday.

Unbria Jazz Festival in the Main Public Square

I have had a full Sunday, lots more to share, but it is 11PM and I just bought my train ticket to and from Florence for tomorrow.  So, instead of trying to write about all of today’s adventures I had better get some images together for you, and post this.  Remaining itinerary: Monday Florence,  dinner at Mari’s college roommate’s restaurant in Cortona tomorrow, and hopefully post. Tuesday is a wrap-up day ready to head to Boston on Wednesday. 

It is now Midnight, I will catch a 8:17 AM train and return from Florence at 8:30 PM, so, good night, RAY

Friday 5:44 AM and close to arrival to mainland Italy. Just had to say hi from my IPAD Touch and free Internet while on the water. And my first try posting with the APP on this device. Now I am really connected. Bye RAY

NOTE from Cortona at 10:30 AM

Well, the above got uploaded, but went to a “Page 2” and I only use “Page 1” so there is something new that I have to learn.  I also uploaded an image from the ship, taken with my I-Touch, and have to learn how to add it that way to a post, but I am now on my laptop.

The family half-awake waiting to debark

I just had to take these images on board.  As people boarded many of them immediately staked out their “home” for the journey.  I did not mention before that there is even a kennel on board, but many folks just keep their dogs with them.  The second image I took as I turned in after reading topside in the open air.  This family was ready for the night, travelling in style without need of a cabin.  Have a nice weekend, and I will fill you in soon.

Staking Out Her Territory for the Night with Dog in Tow

Ready for the Night - What More Could you Want ???

BONUS – David and Mari’s friend Greta and her family just happen to be at a nearby resort, and are in the pool. Greta asked if I would internet – YES. It is Thursday AM, July 14^th.

I know that it will be sometime before I can post, but I can still be writing, before anything slips my mind.  We left the hotel in Rome shortly before Noon on Saturday and headed to the port town of  Civitavecchia to catch the Moby Line ferry for Olbia on the Northwest coast of Sardinia.  

 Well, when I think of ferry my memory goes to the small open Ticonderoga ferry for a dozen or so cars (more if all TR3As) or the Staten Island Ferry – but try to envision a hybrid of a cruise ship on top of two decks for vehicles including busses and semi-tractor trailers that enter from the stern, drive forward and do a u-turn to be ready to exit the stern upon arrival.  Unbelievable, but this is Mediterranean travel.  Boarding was at 3PM with cast-off shortly thereafter for our 125 mile sail.  I wanted to ride with David in the car to see the inside of the ship while Mari and the kids boarded by foot to secure a good seating spot (which was not really a problem it ended up because the ship was far from capacity – another sign of a sad world-wide economy).   When we exited the car decks we passed two decks of cabins and then arrived on the deck with restaurants, seating areas, playgrounds, game room, and up forward a three level cabaret with stage. We arrived at Olbia at about 8:30  PM.  I slept for several hours, my posting to 2:30 AM that morning having finally caught up to me.

Sardinia consists of coast or mountains, with only small towns on some of the mountainous roads, so we ate in town in a great spot Mari selected.  Pizza (better than the states) is everywhere, and ideally prepared in wood-fired ovens. The pies are traditionally prepared with very thin crusts and then a wide, very wide range of toppings.  An individual pie is the size of what would feed a family in the states, but in the states the massive toppings on that one pie are far too much for one person.  I will have to get a picture sometime for you.  Then our mountainous journey began sorting out which road to which town along the way heading essentially due west to Isola Rossa.  We arrived about midnight and began trying to follow Mari’s uncle’s sketchy directions to his villa.  We tried many roads and paths but back in town Mari located someone in a bar who just happened to know of a relative of the caretaker who was there – and he immediately set us straight.  It ends up that on one of our turns we were very close, and at 1 AM we were all unloaded.  Travel on the roads on Sardinia is like in Ireland.  Very small roads (I will be anxious to see the cliffs and drop-offs as we drive back in the daylight), very twisty, and you cannot cover much ground in a day.  We got settled by about 1:45 AM, and I was the first to stir at 10 AM on Sunday.

Now this is a “beach holiday” for the kids, I am not really a beach person, but am easy to “go with the flow” for the experiences and memories.  The beaches are magnificent. We headed to the closest one and had cappuccino at the covered snack bar on the water, and then hiked off towards the red rocks (remember, Isola Rossa – RED) to a more secluded area.  I joined them in the water but eventually sought shade under an outcropping of rock.  It was a relaxed day awaiting the adventure on Monday when we drove East to Palau to rent a boat. David and Mari had done this before.  The plan was to explore The Maddelena Archipelago and circle the islands of Budelli, Razzoli, and Santa Maria.  We stopped in one busy cove with fabulous sands and water, and then headed off to a more secluded spot to have lunch which we brought along.  The kids enjoyed a swim, and adventure came when Lisa caught a small octopus and brought it on board.  It was not happy and worked hard to escape, which David helped with. Eventually I will get some of their images of the adventure.  Corsica was off in the horizon, and as isolated as we were there was an ice cream and coffee vendor boating around.  We arrived back to the port at 6PM, walked around this typical tourist resort village and had a lovely dinner before heading back over the mountains.  I should interject that to get anywhere you must go over the mountains, even to the neighboring coastal village.

Above — Where we anchored for lunch – the windswept rocks are wonderful

On Tuesday the kids all headed over to Resort Le Dune to spend the day with Greta and her family who are also from Winchester, MA.  I stayed back, read, and then slept from about 1-3:30 in the heat of the day. I read some more, and that evening we went back to town for a fun dinner (I even bought a T-shirt) and evening stroll.  When the sun goes down the temperature drops rapidly and 100 degree heat becomes (at least for me) a comfortable Walpole evening.  As a youngster extreme heat used to bother me, but I am fortunate to not be affected too much.

Wednesday morning we headed back to the same open air restaurant on the beach before David left to pick up Greta, her mother and two children to come to our beach.  As you know, I love to explore so I opted out to walk back to the beach after seeing the town and the 16^th century sentinel tower. 

Town of Isola Rossa - Beach, town, and Red Rock Island

I covered the whole town in minutes, and I do explore everything. I then followed the coastline back climbing windswept red rocks, and working my way through unique fauna. 

Isola Rossa's 16th Century Sentinel Tower

 I met them on the beach, and David wanted to take everyone over to another secluded spot they found earlier.  He rented a kayak to take the boys, the girls swam (I could not believe the distance) and the ladies hiked the walk along the coast.  I had lunch at the beach bar waiting for David, and enjoying the slight breeze in the shade. David returned for lunch and said he wanted to get a paddle boat to go back with me and the remaining beach stuff to give the kids some fun.  So off we ventured that way, and I found the cove delightful.  I actually swam some and then settled under some rocks reading with my feet in the water and a shrimp constantly tickling or nibbling at my foot.  I noted that the water started crashing upon the rocks, and soon two boats arrived saying – the wind is coming up and the paddle boat had to be returned, and all were offered rides in the boats back.  I had not been on that path, and being a walker took the scenic route on foot along with Greta’s Italian mother.   All in all the weather was just perfect the whole day, but as we settled down on the beach once again the waves became more fierce – the Mistral winds from the Loire Valley in France we have been told.

Today, Thursday, as we headed over so the kids could play at their friend’s resort the waves were unbelievably high on the beaches.  I decided to go along to see “new territory” but packed my computer bag to work on my “blog words” in the shade, and of course have books to read too.  When Greta said the resort had WI-FI, I said WOW.  So, here is a quick update that I will have to add more images too if time permits.  Early this afternoon we head back to Olbia for a night ferry. “Catch you” on Friday, as always, RAY