Shunpiking with Ray

It is now about 10PM, Wednesday, July 7^th.  Still no internet connection (when I talked with David awhile ago on the real telephone he said, “this is Italy!”) and when I got back to the hotel there was a message from Mari, “are you alright?”  You are probably wondering too, and sadly may not know for over a week.  At any rate, today was a typical “running hard Ray day” lasting 12 hours, mainly on my feet!  I had breakfast in the hotel, and then headed out to the Vatican on foot (it is that close).  I got there about 9:30, and even though people were hustling tours to avoid the line (I learned from yesterday), I took the hour in line to read up on the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, and Saint Peter’s  Basilica.   Time well spent, and my ticket receipt reads 10:25 (you were asleep).  WOW, I did not leave until after 2 PM.  Now, I decided that at tourist areas I need not carry my Nikon camera – it is too hard, and I need the space in my small “fanny pack” (Cathy bought this one for cross-country skiing) for my sun hat (forgot it yesterday) sun screen, tour book, IPOD, sun and regular glasses – you get the point, and it works.  Thus any images from “tourist traps” will be not so good from the IPOD.  I will save using my Nikon D3100 for my solo true Shunpiking, and photography adventures.

The only way to see Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel is to go through the Vatican Museum which concludes with the Chapel.  What an experience!  The Popes over the years bought, were given, plundered and otherwise acquired representative works of art for all times.  If you are missing a mummy, sculpture, or whatever, it is probably here.  You start in the Egyptian rooms, work into the Greeks and Romans but I probably enjoyed the most the Long March (a quarter mile hall with tapestries, and painted maps and views of Italy).  The Popes would tour visitors throughout Italy by walking that section, and believe me the walls are stories high as are the maps, scenes and tapestries that precede the map section.

The Long March in the Vatican

  Next you get to see the Raphael rooms filled with religious history scenes and done in the 14^th and early 15^th centuries.  Finally you end up in Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel which is absolutely breathtaking.  I was able to get a seat on a side bench and listen to my audio tour to help gain an appreciation of his work and the stories on the scenes.  As Steves’ says what you see is the Gospel According to Michelangelo.  Oh, by the way, if you wish you can go to the Rick Steves website and listen to or download any of his audio tours for FREE.  And then I got to Saint Peter’s and words do not suffice.  Wish I had a camera, but today (8^th) when back there with Lisa she took some wonderful images which sometime I will add to this post and let you know (probably when getting home).

St. Peter's Square

My plan was to then head to Ostia Antica the original port for Rome founded in about 420 BC.  This was my choice instead of the long trek to Pompeii – and it was a good choice!  I walked to the Metro, transferred to the other line, and then transferred to a train (no additional charge) for a 30 minute ride, and then a short (of course) walk.  I arrived just about 4 (I knew it closed at 7PM as do most of the places that should be visited).  It became a military base to protect Rome, and mainly served for the transfer of goods from ships to barges to then go up the Tiber River.

I first headed to the cafeteria (no time to eat thus far), relaxed a bit and then began walking around with my Rick Steves audio.  Now, imagine a 2,000 year old town of 60,000 people, a port town, but then the Tiber changed course making it obsolete, but not totally abandoned.  At one point the marble facades and sculptures were stripped to make into lime for construction elsewhere, or simply recycled elsewhere.  The town became forgotten, silted over and squatters used some of the buildings during the Middle Ages.  Popes, and others financed digging operations to obtain art work and statuary for use elsewhere, but the footprint and much of the structures survived (including a theater for 4,000) so it is easy to see what life was like in this Roman town 2,000 years ago.  I took some images, and hopefully will have time to post some.  The kids just got back from the concert (Mari’s friend, Lorenzo, is a pop rap singer in Italy with, as David told me, the same stature as Bruce Springsteen in the states) and it is 1 AM here, and David and I are still considering going to the Apian Way and Catacombs in the morning.  We need to head to the ferry at Noon, so basically little time to sleep if I want to post.  We will see what I get done!

Forum at Ostia Antica

At any rate – I really enjoyed this side trip, and finished up one minute before the gates were locked at 7 PM.  Getting back to the hotel area I was late to get seated as one person in a sidewalk café because the tables were all reserved for larger parties, so I remembered a trick I often use when travelling by visiting an area grocery store.  Not only is it something fascinating to do in a “foreign” country, but convenient, and I bought a great salad, healthy snacks, and a bottle of Italian wine for 1.5 Euros – Mari had told me wine is inexpensive in Italy !!  I had my salad in my room, tried to work on a post, but was exhausted and went to sleep.

EVENTS FOR FRIDAY – JULY 8^th

Thought it might make sense to combine Thursday and Friday on one page.  My plan today was to see the Pantheon (House of Gods), but while looking at the map realized I could do more including the Jewish Ghetto and the Trastevere (an area essentially untouched since the Middle Ages).  As I mentioned earlier, I planned my tour of Rome backwards (well, I never really did plan this one) because today I saw Rome that people love, and I got out before the crowds, and then retraced much of what I did with the kids and crowds – but that comes later.  I left at 8:15, and got back to the hotel at 12:45 – 4 and one-half hours on my feet walking and observing (I can go against any 30 year old !!!!).

I headed across the river to pickup Via del Corso at Piazza del Popolo – the main street like Broadway in NYC.  Now here was the shopping, and the restaurants that are not around the hotel.  It was grand, I stopped in a few wonderful churches, and eventually made it to the Pantheon where I was essentially alone with a dozen other people.  Rick Steves educated me on this fabulous structure that has been in continuous use for almost 2,000 years. Twenty foot walls at the base, five feet wide just under the dome, and the only light comes in the 30 foot opening at the top.  Not to worry, the floors are sloped to holes at the outside walls to drain any rain that may fall.  Later in the day when I visited again with David and family (I am ahead of the story) I was able to recount the history dating back to 140 AD including Rafael’s tomb from about 540 AD.

Then I worked my way through the Jewish Ghetto which looking at the map is right back into the area I started in on Wednesday at the Colosseum.  I then crossed the Tiber to follow the walk through an untouched Medieval area (essentially in earlier structures) called Trastevere. The high point there was Santa Maria Basilica which is the first church built for Mary.  The site is a house where Christians practiced their religion when it was outlawed, and once Constantine made Christianity legal the church was begun – amazing.  I am racing at this point because it is approaching 1 AM here.  I then walked back to the Tiber and followed the river back to the hotel – a very long walk.

The kids had arrived just a short time before I got back, so off we went together to seek lunch. Mari, knowing Rome, said lets head back to Via del Corso.  Much bigger crowds than the 4 hours earlier that I had been there.  We found a fun sidewalk café for lunch, and then continued walking south with side detours to two famous sites that I missed earlier – The Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain (you know, the famous one La Dolce Vita).  Heading to the Pantheon we then passed “fashion row” all the shops of the famous Italian designers – Cathy would still be there!!  At the Pantheon (David’s favorite building) I was able to relate to Lisa all the history that I had learned hours before.  At that point Mari wanted to head back in a cab to the hotel with Alex, but David wanted to see St. Peter’s as did Lisa.  So we rode in the cab and got dropped off saving time, and my legs.  Again I was able to share my earlier education with Lisa and David.  She was overwhelmed and took many pictures with her Canon S90 – I am now going to upgrade my “point and shoot” to that model or its upgrade.  On exiting we again got smart and took a cab back to the hotel – if you travel in Italy it is always good to have someone (Lisa in the case) along with you who speaks fluent Italian.  At 7:30 we had pizza, and at 8:30 David, Mari and Lisa headed to the concert and Alex and I back to the hotel.

Wow, I am exhausted just recounting my events.  I wish I had the time to add more and images, but must get a few hours sleep.  I can edit my words and prepare my images while on Sardinia and have them ready to upload along with a Sardinia report upon my return to Cortona.  So, if you do not hear again until that time it is only because I cannot “connect” with the world.  Thanks, as always, RAY (2:21 AM – Rome time)

STARTED ON JULY 6^th, but posted on July 8^th (maybe without photos to expedite things, I can add photos later).

I am sitting in my hotel room in Rome, composing this off-line in my word processing program because the “internet machine,” as they told me, has been broken for a day.  I am anxious that I cannot communicate with you all, and with David and Mari to give them an update on what to expect here – hopefully tomorrow.  I have tried to connect to someone’s internet on my IPOD Touch as I walked back, but also to no avail.  Thus, I must reiterate my life survival phrase – ACCEPT and ADJUST and my second calming phrase to be CONTENT and COMFORTABLE.  To which I must also remind myself, “Ray does not do cities and crowds!”  I will add at this point on July 8^th, that I wish I had flipped my days around – experiencing the Colosseum with the hordes of people just started me off on the wrong foot and gave me a bad impression of Rome.

David saw me off from the Cortona railway station this morning, and I arrived on time in Rome just before 10:30.  Modern station without the Victorian train shed of London that I love, just a long walk along platforms to a modern building.  I knew to look for the Tourist Information booth to get a Roma Pass and followed the occasional “I” which would lead me nowhere.  So retrace steps, search some more, ask for help and over an hour later found the official booth (after also asking at newsstands and tobacco shops for the card, “sorry we no longer sell!”)  The official booth had a crude hand-written sign – SOLD OUT.  Did not make sense, “time to adjust, Ray!” Long lines at the automatic ticket machines for the Metro (no humans) since most people were tourist like me and had no idea what to do.  My turn finally, and I did easily get my ticket for one trip for 1 Euro hoping to get my Roma Pass later in the day at the Colosseum.  The Metro is easy, only two lines that cross, and Mari told me which to take for the hotel.  I arrived at Noon, checked in and decided to run quick post and an email to David.  No luck, could not log on-line, and asking at the desk found out their internet had been out for a day – sorry!

I was already flustered, unsure of what to do, Colosseum/Forum and Palatine Hill, or ADJUST and head to the Vatican.  I started walking, thinking I would decide on the way, and soon I hopped back onto the Metro to head to the Colosseum.

You walk out of the Metro station, and bam, there is the Colosseum, with lines wrapping around it – I felt like Chevy Chase!  I got in line, but was concerned I had already lost too much time so I listened to the hustlers selling tours to get you to the head of the line – 25 Euros (12 for the ticket plus 13 for the guide).  I feel for it, but goofed – terrible guide and by the time he finished talking about gladiators for the umpteenth time the line I wanted to avoid was gone. The actual ticket also includes the Forum and Palatine Hill, but the guide stalled giving it (a scam?). Another couple finally pushed, and I said I too was promised a ticket. We finally got them (after Italian cursing about Americanos), and off I went on my own with my Rick Steves audio in my IPOD Touch exploring on my own.  On the upper level were wonderful exhibits and the crowds not as bad.  I finally exited and headed over to the Forum with my audio tour.  No line at the ticket area, so if you ever go head there first for your ticket since obviously everyone pours out of the Metro into the first line.  Also the forum seemed to have less people and the Palatine Hill even less.  It was well after 6PM and I had covered all, so I headed back to the hotel which is in a residential area on the Tiber River.  I wanted to warn David that there were few restaurants in the area since it was residential.

Now, I have been running so hard, I am actually finishing my report for the 6^th on the 8^th.  I have run so hard for 12 plus hours (and mainly on my feet) that it has been difficult to stay up and type.  So each day I have only written notes, and some of what I am saying I am writing now that I can post on the 8^th.  You may not seen many good pictures because I have found it too hard to use my larger SLR camera, and I did not bring my small “point and shoot” because I thought the camera function of the IPOD Touch would suffice.  Not really – good for a pinch, but from now on I will also carry the small “point and shoot” too.  I use a “fanny pack” wearing on my stomach with books, maps, glass cases and the IPOD.  Works well too to cover the pocket with my wallet, but I have never been in an instance where I felt pickpockets were operating.  So, “on the list” is a new “point and shoot” (Lisa has a great new Canon  – mine is maybe 10 years old) as well as an IPAD Touch.  David today (the 8^th) got a new unlocked Android phone which can also act as a “hot spot” as well as a phone, but as long as I am not in Italy I think I will always be able to get connected.  Well, so much to tell you, think I will post this now, can edit later and add images and video of the Collosseum too.

Welcome back, it is now Tuesday evening, 5 July, two full days to remember, images to select, and then I will repack for Rome and Sardinia.  I got my train ticket for Rome tomorrow, and Mari just checked the schedule and I will leave at 8 AM to arrive in Rome at about 10:30.

Yesterday, the 4th, David, Mari, and I headed to the square for cappucino, and then walked around some prior to lunch.  Afterwards Alex took us to the museum, and I am so pleased (since I am a museum aficionado) at his excitement with the exhibits.  The museum itself is a museum having  been founded in 1727, and I wish I knew the date of the building it is in, but it is 13th century or earlier I would say.  We then headed off to the park that Alex enjoys, and I took him for a spin on the merry-go-round.

Speeding on the Merry-go-Round

As we have walked around the narrow streets I have been fascinated with architectural details, and wish I had become an architectural historian.  I remember years ago being fasincated by the restoration of a 12th century English half-timber somewhere in England, and I enjoyed two years ago a “new” 18th century architecture exhibit at Strawbery Banke Plantation in Portsmout.  But, back to Cortona.

Mari’s brother, who took over her Dad’s medical practice, joins us for lunch and dinner along with his girlfriend when possible.  The large meal is at 12:30 with a first course of pasta, followed by a substantial (and wonderful) meat course.  Businesses close from Noon to 3 PM, and then resume until 7 PM.  We all gather then for dinner at 8:30.  Now, her brother knowing it was our Independence Day on the 4th showed up with a massive display of fireworks (which we heard today were the talk all around town), and as of this moment he and Alex are shooting off loud firecrackers. 

Prior to lunch today, David and Mari took me to two local attractions.  First we drove to to The Celle Hermitage  which Saint Francis began in 1211 and it is believed to be the place where, in May 1226, four months before his death he dictated his Will. What a peaceful and special place, and so well restored and preserved (Cathy would have loved it).  Then we went to the Fortress of Girifalco at the top of the hill built in 1556. It is connected to the walls of the city, and the views are exceptional of the town, valley, and Lake  Trasimeno were Hannibal ambushed the Roman army in 217 BC killing over 15,000 soldiers. 

We returned for lunch, and afterwards headed to Siena.

On the way to Siena

Siena is a large city in Tuscany that attracts many tourists.  Many parking areas circle the city, and then it is quite a climb to reach the center, and in some places there are a series of escalators.

HOURS LATER, and after another walk to town with David — I have been working with images, forgot how to do a slideshow, researched and remembered, and as a result am running short of time to pack and sleep and leave for the train in about 7 hours.  So, bare with me, we have been so pleasantly busy that I just not have been able to write all that I want.  I am going to post this as incomplete, BUT plan to edit it tomorrow night and add the images I have worked with.  I will also spend time to show you my first day in Rome.  Thank you for your understanding, RAY

Finally getting the slideshow working on July 8th !!!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Hi all,

I figured I would wait until tomorrow to put up a small post, but in looking at  my stats I see that 6 people have checked here today (maybe to see what is up).  So, I am out on Mari’s parents patio at about 600 meters elevation, cool breeze, no bugs and overlooking the valley over the 2300 year old original Etruscan wall to the town.  David is exhausted and has turned in because he could not get comfortable on the plane, but the rest of us caught enough winks on the flight and are going strong (I do travel well).

Well, I started this last night, but Mari and Alex and Lisa (and her friend) came down and said, “let’s get some gelato,” so off we walked, and upon returning at midnight Mari’s Dad had shut off the power to his router, so I turned in knowing I could get back to this before you awoke.  So, now back to the initial tale.

Check in at Logan again was easy, nine plus hour flight to Zurich passed quickly as did two hour layover for the small plane to Florence.  We arrived at 3PM local time, total elapsed travel time of a tad over 11 hours.  It took about a half hour for the rental car arrangements, and I am sorry I do not have a video of the 5 of us getting into the Ford Fiesta with 5 large bags of varying size and an equal number of carry-ons.  Lovely road to Cortona, sorry I could not even reach my camera or IPOD to show you the approach, but soon.

Mari's Parent's and Brother's Homes

A walled, medieval hill town, but dating to Etruscan times, which are pre-Roman, it is so wonderful it is difficult to describe.  I may have mentioned that this would be a different experience for me as this is a relaxing time with family and blending in more with “the locals” than running hard – a shift for me, but as John Tesh say’s in his book, “what you want is experiences and memories.”  Mari’s parents’ home is just inside one of the gates in the Etruscan wall, and then a short narrow drive up the hill (not room for two cars, and most streets are strickly for walking).  Prior to dinner we walked to the main street (the main street because it is the only level walking), and the town is bustling with people. 

David and Mari with friends in the Main Square

Mari, having, grown up here, could not go a few paces without seeing more friends.  Eventually we sat for an pre-dinner drink, and head back for dinner at 8:30 with her family.  What I found interesting is that people stroll before and after dinner, the purpose being to visit.  In comparing thoughts David said, “well you visit when heading to the Post Office.”  True, but the purpose of my stroll is errands, and the purpose here is solely the social – a way of life.  A small difference, but an important one as we explore the world.

We found out that the Univerisity of Georgia’s (they have a summer art institute here) 4th of July party was held on the 2nd, so that is off the list today, but Alex is anxious to take me to the Etruscan museum which is on today’s list.  Mari’s Dad just returned from errands and brought me the “International Herald Tribune” in English.  Yes, David and I are on the patio, he with his IPAD working with an Italian language program (although he can communicate some – I wish I had had – or made – the time to try).  Unlike ending my day in Ireland with my postings, I think this is how I will work in Cortona by starting the day relaxing and working on my postings.  So, not sure what I will be having to share, but I do know that I enjoy doing so.   Happy 4th of July.

Looking out my window

“A CHINESE POET MANY CENTURIES AGO NOTICED THAT TO RE-CREATE SOMETHING IN WORDS IS LIKE BEING ALIVE TWICE.”  From the preface to UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN by Frances Mayes.

It is so hard to believe that June is just about done, and I fly off to Italy with David and his family on Saturday.  My last month plus has been consummed with The Walpole Player’s original production IF I WERE BRITISH which was presented for two weekends culminating with Walpole Old Home Days this past weekend.  Scott and Betty again visited for the weekend, and we had a grand time.  By Sunday night I collapsed from exhaustion, but awoke Monday with a clear week to get set for this next excursion.

Last week, however, I finally thought I should start my research unlike the month plus I spent working on Ireland.  Actually, I see this journey as a more relaxing trip with the kids.  I dropped the idea of getting to Pompeii, but wanted to spend some time in Rome.  You know I am a Rick Steves advocate, and while on his website found free audio tours of Rome for MP3 players.  Not having one I called David for recommendations, and he noted that there was now an APP for the tours.  Well, I debated (actually only overnight), and bought an Apple IPOD Touch (not a phone, but everything else).  It arrived when Scott and Betty were here, and did we have fun experimenting, and I am just thrilled to have moved this next step.  It is WI-FI compatible, which really gives me all the flexibility I need.  In the last few days I have downloaded all the tours I want, added Skype (Scott was impressed, signed up too and we have talked that way — in fact to test the WI-FI capabilities I carried my IPOD to Burdicks, logged on, and called Scott that way), transferred images taken with my IPOD to my laptop to resize with Photoshop Elements 9 to save uploading time to this site, and last night I was thrilled to find a voice messaging feature so I can record my wonderful thoughts before I lose them.  Hey, for a guy who threw away his watch more than 3 decades ago, I can now even find out the time (good when travelling alone in a foreign place).  Now, I know this is all “old-hat” to you cell-phone folks, but for me, WOW.

All you want to know, Rick Steves will tell you !!!

So, to the left is an image taken with my “new toy”, transferred to my laptop to resize, and then uploaded to WordPress almost instantaneously because of the smaller file size.  My next experiment will be with video which hopefully you will see along with this post.

The kids have a concert in Rome on the 8th (Mari’s friend is one of the top Italian performers), so I thought I would get there on the 6th before them and do the “Caesar Shuffle” exploring ancient Roman sites, then go to the Vatican the next day, and also tour Ostia Antica, and the Appian Way and Catacombs.  Mari has booked a very convenient 4 star hotel – the Donna Laura Palace, and I will play with Alex while they are at the concert.  This morning David and I talked briefly, and the plan is to take a 3-4 hour ferry on Saturday to Sardinia where we will be at Mari’s uncles.  Then on the 14th we will take an overnight ferry back to a more northern port closer to her parent’s home in Cortona.  The remaining days I will be in the Hills of Tuscany.

Well, I guess what is left to do is to experiment with the video, so I will save what I have written so far, and give it a try.   So, my first video test was successful.  I took a 2 minute 16 second shot.  It took about 13 minutes to upload to WordPress, and then about 20 minutes for WordPress to “process” the video so it can be used in various ways.  I went to preview, and my video was great along with my voice describing what I shot — HOWEVER – I did not know, until now, that holding the phone vertical put the video at a 90 degree of what I shot (on its side).  So, I will delete that and try another now holding the IPOD Touch in landscape (horizontal mode).  Maybe tomorrow I can even do an experiment with my Nikon 3100 SLR which takes HD Movies too.  Second test gave me an upside down video on the horizontal, so then I tried a third direction which worked (see below).  I then checked on Apple.com for information on the IPOD Touch video, and guess what – all the pictures have the button on the right.  As Scott said, “no instructions come with these units, what we need is an eight-year old!!!”  During my continued testing (which consumed many learning hours today) I did play with my SLR, and then dug out the books to read up on focusing, etc.  But, I will be able to add video with that too.  Only problem is the long “processing time” so that may impinge on the number of video uploads, particularly on my cross-Canada train trip which I finally booked last week.

Well, that is a great deal for one day, so time to go back to my books.  Got to play with the IPOD Touch while the video was “processing” and I am embarrased to say that I loaded IBOOKS and then downloaded THE LAST OF THE MOHICANS.   No wonder business is so far off.  Good night.