MAINLY MAINE – HISTORIC OVERNIGHT – 7-8 July 2016

THE "HOOK" - What is it? Keep reading.

THE “HOOK” – What is it? Keep reading.

I know, I know – July is almost over, and I am reporting two and a half weeks late. And, I even have a three nighter from last week to document before month end.  You see, I go away, learn of books I need to read, buy those books, read them, research more on where I have been, and finally get to tell you about what I did. And, then too, I had to finish the August issue of THE WALPOLE CLARION. Recently I have been worried about giving you too many pictures (and too many words), but I have to show you things I have not seen, and if I haven’t seen them, my bet is you have not also. So, as time passes from an adventure, hopefully I trim down the number of images, and pare down the words, becoming more concise. So, here goes…

Having had almost a year of difficult walking, back surgery, and a longer hospital stay than planned, I have been hesitant to get “back on the road,” but the “best way to get something done is to begin.” I saw a news report about 19th CENTURY WILLOWBROOK VILLAGE in Newfield, Maine, and knowing nothing of it said, “Ray, off you go.”

Willowbrook Village

Willowbrook Village

Newfield is in southwestern Maine. Looking at my New Hampshire map for a backroad to the area I noticed Route 28 crossing US 4 and US 202 outside Concord. Not having been on that route, that was the plan to work north above Lake Winnipesaukee ( (get your map out) I stopped in Alton Bay for lunch – always love visiting there) to Route 16, to head east on Route 25 into Maine.

Remember that many roads today bypass the towns they originally bisected (thus Walpole was saved by the Route 12 bypass in 1962). I saw the sign pointing to Pittsfield to the right, and turned.

Main Street - Pittsfield, NH

Main Street – Pittsfield, NH

I parked on Main Street, and started going from one historical plaque to another, reading and photographing. The architecture was (is) amazing. Rounding the corner to Carroll Street, I found the Frank Lyman Park with maps and tour booklets (watch out WHS – I have an idea). On the front cover of PITTSFIELD’S HISTORIC TRAIL (just found it on-line – check it out) is printed: “Step back in time to the Nineteenth Century.  This 1.5 mile walking trail encompasses nearly all of the features found in any New England community over 100 years ago:  homes, churches, schools, industrial and commercial buildings as well as dams and bridges. Unlike elsewhere, however, most of the original buildings remain the same as when they were constructed.” I enjoyed touring around, and reading many of the 35 cast aluminum plaques. A return more thorough visit is in order, and RAY RECOMMENDS – spend some time exploring Pittsfield, NH.

Remember to click on any of the above to see larger images.

I was going to cut over to head north on Route 153, but taking a wrong turn ended up in Wolfeboro where I then continued north to pick up Route 25 east. When I got to Route 153 I thought, “well, at least I can see Effingham even though I did not come up 153 all the way.”  Well, I got to Effingham, and guess what? I realized I had been there on a great trip on 153 in September 2014 You need to get to the bottom of that great post (yes, some are better than others) to read of Route 153, and I did not share Effingham, NH at that time. (NOTE – RAY RECOMMENDS TRAVEL NH ROUTE 153)

This time I explored more in Effingham, learned more, and am sharing.

Effingham, NH, Bandstand - A Bandstand as it should be.

Effingham, NH, Bandstand – A Bandstand as it should be.

Virtually untouched, there are 21 colonial era properties in the historic district. Just off Route 153 the First Normal School in New Hampshire, and next door the Lord Mansion, one of the largest period homes I have seen with massive attached barns and carriage sheds.

Downtown Effingham, New Hampshire

Downtown Effingham, New Hampshire

RAY RECOMMENDS — Visit Effingham, New Hampshire

Back to Route 25 east, crossing into Maine – only to find much of nothing (I had been hoping to score big at antique shops). With few lodging choices in the area, I had made a reservation at The Cornish Inn – yes, in Cornish, Maine. Arriving at 3pm, my key and a note had been left on the newell post, so I left my things, and then walked around town looking at some shops – decent ones for a change.

The Cornish Inn and Lincoln Pub - Cornish, Maine

The Cornish Inn and Lincoln Pub – Cornish, Maine

The antiques were great, pricey, and anything I would have wanted, I already own. Across the street was this great shop, and the interior had been a country store.

Closing the last shop at 5pm, and since my Inn’s dining room had been closed for the evening (was planning to eat there), I headed further east to see Sebago Lake. I recently saw a Home and Garden TV show searching for homes on the lake and wanted to see it, and there had to be a restaurant on the water. There was not, and I can now say I saw Sebago Lake. I found a so-so old inn for dinner on the way back to Cornish, and when I returned, I planted myself on the porch to read and write in the rain.

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After a nice breakfast at the inn on Friday morning the 8th, I headed for my destination in Newfield – 19th CENTURY WILLOWBROOK VILLAGE.

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There a few minutes before opening time, I struck up a conversation with a gentleman outside the old country store – now the entrance and gift shop on the left above. Ends up he is the museum director, and between my questions and our similar interests, it was an hour before I got to purchasing my ticket. I had to know the history of why the museum was there (I always have to know why something or a town is where it is). Don King bought the main farm in 1965 for use as a hunting lodge, but then began collecting farm implements and the like to save the items from the dump. He began restoring things, and in May, 1970 decided to open his museum. Most fascinating, I learned that most of Newfield was lost in 1947 – the year that Maine burned. It was suggested that I read WILDFIRE LOOSE by Joyce Butler.  I ordered it that night, and when it arrived could not put it down. You have no idea what you will learn about fires, and wonderful neighbors helping neighbors. Having visited the past few years in all the locales mentioned, I could place the action. Extremely well written, RAY RECOMMENDS – get WILDFIRE LOOSE, and devour it. Including time for lunch at their nice sandwich shop, I spent 2 1/2 hours on the grounds once I got started after visiting with the director.

Great exhibits, but the absolute best is the unique 1894 Armitage-Herschell Carousel. Fourteen years of restoration, it was installed in 1991. Packed away in a barn for decades by the original owner, this carousel travelled extensively to fairs in the area. In has 26 horses that with mechanisms rock back and forth rather than going up and down. At the time, carousels were only for adults – NO CHILDREN. For modesty, women had to ride  sidesaddle on the inside horses. In the building is also the original steam engine (now propelled by compressed air) and the original ticket booth, complete with original tickets – the red building you see in my video)

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Few of these may exist, and this is the most complete outfit in existence, and worth the visit.

You enter the village in the country store – and you know me and country stores (goodness, I may have never shown you the country store I have recreated in my bookshop – something to share with you someday – a 45 year plus fascination).

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Upstairs is the original meeting and dance hall, with walls decorated in 1924 in the Rufus Porter style.

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In the front corner was a collection of cameras and projectors. I have examples of half of the ones shown below – yes, another fascination.

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Some wonderful farm related exhibits in the barns connected to the country store. Then you walk down the road (no traffic) to the adjoining area for more exhibits, and the print shop – yes you know another passion.

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And, I had never seen these large folding one-man saws before, so have to share.

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And, with all the hit-‘n’miss equipment I have seen in the past couple years, I never saw a saw (no pun intended) attached in this way.

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And, another “appropriate” band stand.

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When I was planning my route to Maine, I saw on the map — New Hamspshire Farm Museum, which I knew nothing about. It was on the way home in Milton, so backroading away I went arriving about 2:30.

NH Farm Museum, Milton, NH

NH Farm Museum, Milton, NH

The docent shared with me the win-win situation of the museum’s establishment. The last heir of the farm died, and her will called for destruction of the 18th century complex since she wanted no one else to live there. The existing farm museum non-profit had no home, and a NH Court battle broke the will, and the museum bought the property preserving it to tell the story of agriculture and rural life in New Hampshire over three hundred years.

At one time, the home served as a tavern, here refurnished as it would have been used. Note the floor cloth – I am partial to them.

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And there are fascinating exhibits in the 104 long, three story barn. So much I had never seen before.

Someone has ATTITUDE !!!

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And, this ten-foot building led to more research, another book purchase, and I can tell you that these buildings were all over New England serving as “shoe factories.”  You go research.

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And, finally, hopefully I “hooked” you with this image.  Well, I am going to get to work on my trip to Scott and Betty’s in Pennsylvania. What is it below?  I will tell you in the next post. Thanks for reading, yours, RAY

 

THE "HOOK" - What is it? Keep reading.

THE “HOOK” – What is it? Keep reading.

RAY RECOMMENDS – Don’t rush, but if in the area do visit WILLOWBROOK VILLAGE and the NEW HAMPSHIRE FARM MUSEUM

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JULY 4, 2016 — WHERE WOULD I BE? – PLYMOUTH NOTCH, VERMONT

Yes, tradition is wonderful, and I was back in Plymouth Notch, VT, for the third time on the 4th of July to help celebrate President Calvin Coolidge’s 144th birthday, and our Declaration of Independence. If you want historical details, search for any of my many other posts on this bucolic spot where our 30th President was born, and is unchanged since he was inaugurated President here in the early morning hours of August 3, 1923. Rural 1923 Vermont typifies the 1880s elsewhere in the US – I love it, but you know that. So, this is a visual post, and here is what you missed today along with the largest crowd I had ever seen here.

July 4, 2016 Parade about to begin in Plymouth Notch Heading to the Coolidge gravesite

July 4, 2016 Parade about to begin in Plymouth Notch Heading to the Coolidge gravesite

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"Parade" heading out of the village for the cemetery.

“Parade” heading out of the village for the cemetery.

DRESSED FOR THE OCCASION

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THREE GENERATIONS OF THE COOLIDGE FAMILY AWAITING FOR THE CEREMONY TO BEGIN

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Wreath from the White House.

Wreath from the White House.

The Placing of the Wreath which was followed by short speeches and quotes from Coolidge’s speeches – impressive to say the least of this unsung hero.

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And, back in town I caught Regional Site Administrator, Bill Jenney, bringing Calvin’s cake out. It is always so wonderful to be warmly greeted by Bill — thank you, Bill.

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 Around the village were crafter’s demonstrations, the buildings were open, and there is always a wagon ride. The garden was wonderful, and I need to get the folks who do this garden to teach me – please! (remember, you can click on an image for larger size)

Backroads home to avoid the backroad – over the hill to Reading and down Route 106 – for the first time this stone jumped out (well, I noticed a car pulled over to the side of  road, and my eyes followed).

In 1918 these stones were placed in this position by descendants of Capt. James Johnson

In 1918 these stones were placed in this position by descendants of Capt. James Johnson

And the plaque on the road reads as below. This Indian raid in Charlestown (just north of me at Fort No. 4) is a classic tale of the French and Indian War, and worthy of further study by me.

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All for now — but more coming — Happy 4th of July – yours, RAY

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TWO NIGHT EXPERIMENT – SARATOGA SPRINGS – 28-30 JUNE 2016

When I began writing this after 21 hours “on the road,” I felt my experiment was going very well. Comfortable for a couple hours in the car driving, two hours on my feet in a car museum, and a long walk for dinner and back.

The past year I have been studying and studying Road Scholar booklets, pulling out trips that interested me, but nothing has compared with the 11-12 unique trips, learning adventures, that I have taken. One trip interested me, five days in Saratoga Springs learning the history of the resort and springs, and touring around. But I studied the itinerary in detail and found I had done more than half the things on their list (Gary graduated from Skidmore, and five years ago lived a couple months here, and I visited) And, with my knowledge of the history of the area, and summer resorts, I probably could give their lectures. Solution – make my own trip, stay in the same historic inn, and do what I had not yet crossed off the list. Sorry for the long intro – jump to images if you wish.

Tuesday I headed across Vermont on Route 9, and once crossing into New York State, SS-1turned right on Farmers Inn Road to “backroad” the rest of the way. Get your maps, I crisscrossed over hills to NY 22, headed north a tad to follow NY 67 west at Eagle Bridge. Big antique center on the corner – lots of stuff, exorbitant prices – and nothing entered the van. This route to Mechanicsville follows a river and rail line, and as a result Johnsonville and Schaghitcoke are old (but very small) industrial and rail centers. I turned at a historic sign to the Buskirks Bridge, and had to share the unique window coverings with you – probably to keep water off the bridge decking, but provide light.

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Crossing the Hudson River at Mechanicville, I turned north on US 4, not having been that far south on the road before. But, arriving in Stillwater, NY, I realized that I had traveled south that far when I visited Gary 5 years ago because there was the Blockhouse on the Hudson. Closed, but I did see it on my last visit. Originally built in 1927 as the original visitor center for the Saratoga National Park, it was moved here in 1999. Worth a stop if traveling past when open. (remember, on my smaller images you can click to enlarge). Continuing north on US 4, I turned west on Route 29 for Saratoga Springs. On the way I stopped at the National Park to clarify some questions I had.

“On my list” for Tuesday was the National Museum of Racing, and the Saratoga Automobile Museum. Not enough time to do both, so since it was open later, off I went to the auto museum located on the grounds of Saratoga Spa State Park.  With FDR’s interest in spas and the health from their waters, he awarded via the Reconstruction Finance Corporation (precursor to the New Deal) $3,200,000 to New York State to build the complex in 1933 (great link for the history). The last building constructed on the spa

SS-4 grounds was the spring water bottling plant, completed in 1935. Life changes, as we know, and with waning public interest, the spa began its decline in the 1960s. It became a state park in 1962. In 1971 the bottling plant closed and became storage. In 2000, the state leased the building to the Saratoga Automobile Museum, founded in 1998. The museum’s doors opened June 1, 2002.

A small museum, but worth 2-3 hours if auto history is of your interest. The current special exhibit is on Sam Posey – a fascinating man: artist, author, auto racer at Lime Rock and elsewhere, and on and on. Here is his 1954 Mercedes-Benz Gull Wing.

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In the corner of the first floor (you can see it sticking up to the top left of the image above) is one of my favorite things, and was I thrilled to see it preserved here. For decades I have visited the Rich’s Model T Ford Cretors Popcorn wagon on Route 22 in Cambridge, NY — and here it is!!! Specially made for Rich in 1925, when he died his daughter still operated it until her death. It went into storage in 1997, and the museum obtained it in 2007.  You know me with popcorn wagons, so bear with me (you can open the gallery for larger size images).

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In conjunction with the Sam Posey exhibit there were additional race cars. Upstairs are two permanent exhibits: East of Detroit (autos made in New York); and, Racing in New York. I loved the history in the East of Detroit exhibit. Great history, and brought back some memories, for example, the Maxwell was built on the river in Tarrytown, New York starting in 1903. From 1918 to 1996 General Motors assembled vehicles there (the plant you can see north of the Tappan Zee Bridge). In the late 1950s or early 1960s my Dad’s car club had an exclusive tour there which I remember.

This 1928 air-cooled Franklin was made in New York. Charles A. Lindberg courted his wife in this car. Learning that Henry Ford wanted the car, Lindberg had it mechanically checked, and drove it all night from New Jersey to Dearborn, MI, in 1940, to give it to Ford for his museum.

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Also built in New York was the Piece Arrow. This 1931 model below shows headlights in the fenders, but I will always remember that it was in 1913 that the Pierce Arrows was the first car ever to have headlights built into the fenders. Why will I remember? Thank you for asking. In 1957, I was on Giant Step, a kids TV program hosted by Bert Parks. I missed out on “a free college education, and upon graduation a world-tour” provided by General Mills. The question I did not know the answer to? What was the first car with headlights in the fenders? I did not win top prize, however, I am pleased with how my life worked out – no regrets.

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Of course, like every pre-teen I wanted to enter the Soap Box Derby race. Never did, but I did take some old buggy wheels, attached them to 2x6s, built various bodies, and raced (albeit slowly) done Partrick Lane, and a bad hill and blind curve on Nod Hill Road in Wilton (now straightened) just below the now Weir Farm National Historic Site (where I used to play, and one time in the barn, one of the caretaker’s kids just missed me with a pitchfork – oh, the silly games kids used to play, and survive). The racer below was the best built in 1951.

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Back in the racing exhibit were more vehicles Posey raced, and this one that said Bob Sharp Motors. I knew that name, and was correct. Bob Sharp was from Wilton and built a car dealership on Route 7 (which you know is my favorite road in the US as you get further north). There was a great Ferrari, Alex remind me to send you the pictures.

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Closing up the museum, it was time to head to my home and porch for the next two nights – The Inn at Saratoga.

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My room is the 4th and 5th windows on the second floor from the corner.

I walked downtown to the main shopping and old hotel area. Sadly the old hotels from the 19th century resort days are gone, but one – The Adelphi Hotel, is being redone. Looking through a doorway – it is all new inside, only the facade was original.

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I had dinner at a sidewalk table at Wheatfields Restaurant. Nice meal, followed by a downpour and wait before walking “home.”

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Wednesday – the plan: The National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame right across from the racetrack; then, Grant’s Cottage, finishing at Chapman Museum in Glens Falls.

I opened the racing museum at 10AM and spent almost two hours there. Pretty good for not really having an interest in horse racing, but the history and cultural aspects of the SS-23sport both in Europe and the US since Colonial times was fascinating. No pictures allowed inside unfortunately. Steeplechase is an early term dating to about 1750 as I recall when horse races were run in Ireland while keeping the church steeple in view. I found the sections of US history during different periods fascinating – a cultural way of life for the upper crust so to speak. Upon leaving I mentioned my frustration at the desk (as I have to do so often) that the history on the placards in all the galleries should be assembled in a booklet so people like me can carry that history and knowledge home. Especially since I could not take images of those placards either.

But now the best of the best – original history from 1885, as it was then, and unchanged, knowledgeable docent, and in-depth history of the times – Grant’s Cottage in Wilton, New York, about 8 miles north of Saratoga Springs atop Mount McGregor.

Grant's Cottage - Mount McGregor

Grant’s Cottage – Mount McGregor

Wow! What I learned about Ulysses S. Grant, our 18th President, and the General who won the Civil War and reunited the nation, making the United States. I bought three books in the gift shop, have read them, thus delaying this post. RAY RECOMMENDS – Visit Grant’s Cottage, not once but often, I am going back.

Grant spent the last 6 weeks of his life, finishing his memoirs here for Mark Twain to publish, and died here. The cottage and its furnishings are essentially unchanged since July 23, 1885. And that lack of change is due to an unusual string of long term caretakers (read, SAVING GRANT COTTAGE by Steve Trimm). Atop a mountain, this cottage was the original hotel, which was moved down from the peak for the building of the 300 room Hotel Balmoral in 1881 by Joseph Drexel from Philadelphia.  In 1884, Grant was diagnosed with throat cancer, and suffered total financial ruin (I will let you discover that fascinating story, much of which is in a book I bought at the museum shop and read, GRANT’S LAST BATTLE by Chris Makowski).

As the summer of 1885 arrived, Grant was encouraged to leave New York City for a healthier environment. Drexel offered his cottage on Mount McGregor, which was accepted. Twain was working with Grant, who was penniless, to finish his memoirs, offering the majority of the profits to Grant so he could provide for his wife. Grant finished his two volume memoirs, dying three days later. Twain paid royalties to Julia Grant of over $450,000 – $11 million today. I could go on and on, I learned so much, but let me just give you a slide show (remember to click on an image to open to larger sizes) and ask you to read and learn more about Grant.

Did I say, visit GRANT’S COTTAGE ???  Then I walked to the top of the mountain, around the fence of the prison that was closed in 2014 to take this view looking east to Vermont.

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Behind me would be the closed prison’s ball field. In an earlier life this was a veteran’s rehabilitation home, and even earlier a sanitarium. Currently for sale by the State of New York. No, I no longer need a new project, although tempting.

I then headed to Glens Falls to visit the Chapman Museum hoping to learn more of the earlier history of the area, but sadly, that was not the focus of the museum. Don’t take the time to visit. The Hudson River begins in the Adirondack Mountains but becomes larger finally, and makes its last southernly decent in Glens Falls and Hudson Falls. What I was thrilled to discover was the Feeder Canal dug in 1822 from this point to the Champlain Canal which runs from Lake Champlain to the Hudson River. This small canal provides needed water for the Champlain Canal to operate, but also opened up the area for industry in the 19th century. Close to the Champlain Canal is the remains of a fleet of 5 locks rebuilt with sandstone in 1834.

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By now you know that I am fascinated also with canals, and what they did for the development of industrial and commercial America in the 19th century.

It was then back to the Inn at Saratoga, reading and wine on the porch, dinner, and more reading.

Thursday. Believe it or not, everything is not always perfect for me. The plan today was to get to Rogers’ Island in the Hudson River at Fort Edwards, which I have been trying to experience for almost 20 years – always I was there the wrong day or wrong season. Before leaving I read, from my history book collection, ROGERS RANGERS AND THE FRENCH & INDIAN WAR by Bradford Smith. A Landmark Book (#63) published in 1956. Great reads for juveniles, but also for adults like me who desire an easy overall understanding of a person or event. I finally got a good grasp of the French and Indian War and Robert Rodgers’ exploits. I arrived before the 10 AM museum to see posted: “SORRY, CLOSED TODAY DUE TO A DEATH IN THE FAMILY.”  I wonder how many days or weeks that sign has been up. Remember my visits to THE STUFFED BUN near Townsend, Vermont,  for my “Free Lunch Tomorrow?” Tomorrow never seems to come.

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Well, I do not get upset – what does that prove? So My next stop over the bridge was to be The Old Fort Museum, also opening at 10. I misread ! On one spot on their website they referred to something at 10AM, but the museum opened at 1PM – too long to wait, so I just wandered the grounds.

I then discovered Lock 7 on the Champlain Canal at the south end of Rogers Island, and had a lovely visit with the lock master. I complimented her on her graciousness, and she said she could enter “public relations time” on her time sheet. Did I tell you I like canals and locks?

Guess what — the plan was to meander back roads home to Rupert, Vermont, Dorset, Manchester, Londonderry, Chester and home. I was maybe five hours ahead of plan, but I was ready to get home, and loved arriving home to “work” and ENJOY.

As I finish this on July 3rd, I feel great, am working on more trips including quite an adventure in the fall (Alex wants to see Mona). So stay tuned to “Shunpiking with Ray” Thank you for reading this far, yours, RAY

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102 DAYS SINCE YOU HAVE HEARD FROM ME – 26 JUNE 2016 at SAINT-GAUDENS

Yes, way too long since I have been “on the road,” actually been able to be “on the road.” In fact, my travels were limited the end of 2015, and some of you know why – my mobility was restricted. Finally found out I had spinal stenosis pinching nerves making walking hard, if not impossible. I never do things the easy way, so in addition I had a herniated disk on one side and growing cyst on the other. Finally, surgery was scheduled for May 3, but a week before another problem flared up, and I was totally immobile. Then following back surgery ileus set in (you have to look something up), and three days in the hospital turned into 17 days vacation in the hospital and rehab.  But, back surgery (including fusion) was a breeze with no pain, no pain meds, and I am on my way to travel – hopefully.

Alcott-CoverThe last week of February I did get to stay with Alex while David and Mari were in Asia, and I had a great time. We usually walk to school, but he understood, and I drove, but we parked a couple blocks away and walked the rest of the way. I usually cover ground exploring when he is in school, but this time I just went back to their house. I had a project that had been “on the list” for about five years – a booklet on Louisa May Alcott’s time in Walpole from 1855-1857. This year our exhibit at the Walpole Historical Society (I am treasurer) is on Louisa, so it was time to finish that writing project, and I basically did so while Alex was in school. A 40 page booklet, which has been well received so far. Copies $5 plus shipping.

LINCOLN-COVERAnd, 102 days ago I told you about my two nights at (where else?) The Red Lion Inn for my birthday present to myself – 13-15 March. But I am “itchy” to get out. Sadly BLACK BEAUTY and BLUE BELLE each have an illness, and LADY RAB, spits water sometimes, but hey, as a friend said to me this morning, “you love to drive, Ray,” so I gave in and headed out with the “new” grey ghost. If I do not go to Plymouth Notch, where else would you find me?  Yes, at the Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site, in Cornish, NH, and today was the ceremony and unveiling of a new bronze cast of ABRAHAM LINCOLN: THE MAN (Standing Lincoln).

It is a short drive, less than an hour, and I drove up bucolic US 5 on the Vermont side of the Connecticut River. I packed a picnic lunch (sadly only for myself), and sat under a tree looking up to Saint-Gauden’s home.SG-1

Festivities were to begin at 1PM with music by the 12th New Hampshire Regiment Serenade Band.  I put my picnic basket back in the “van” and headed up to the tent set up for the festivities, and shade. It is sad to be alone, but good often because one empty seat is always still available in the first (or second) row. The band was amazing, not only the music, but the history the gentleman on the right gave on Civil War music and bands at war.

SG-2I had to give you 30 plus seconds of what they played – this is the hit of 1855, he said, but of course I cannot remember the tune – tell me what you hear. And, I highly recommend you make the opportunity to hear them and their 1860s music on period instruments.

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The ceremony began with remarks by Park Superintendent, Rick Kendall, followed by NH Governor Maggie Hassan (Tara, she asked me why you were not running again).

Fascinating remarks were given by Thayer Tolles, from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and a Saint-Gaudens scholar. And then, what a treat to hear Harold Holzer, the noted Lincoln scholar. He related that Lincoln made 4 rare campaign speeches in NH when visiting his son, Todd, at the Exeter Academy. But, those were his last speeches – it was not the custom then to go on the road with campaign speeches. Too bad that tradition did not continue.

Then it was time for the band to lead us up to the unveiling of the statue.

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Saint-Gaudens received a commission for this statue in 1884 from the Chicago Lincoln Memorial Fund for a sculpture to be placed in Chicago’s Lincoln Park. Finished in 1887, it was this work that brought him to Cornish initially since he was told he could find models with Lincoln’s stature in the area, and he did. Standing Lincoln has become an iconic image of our 16th President, and his son, Robert Todd Lincoln, said it is the best portrait of his father. It was recast and presented to Mexico in 1966 as a good-will gesture.

Work began on this casting in 2009 when the original plaster casts used in 1966 were conserved and repaired. The twenty-one sections once restored were cast in bronze and assembled into the twelve foot statue. A fascinating history brochure was available, and I will cherish my copy. Here is the new cast stature covered by a parachute ready to be unveiled.

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And, guess who showed up? Mr. Lincoln himself, a member of the Association of Abraham Lincoln Presenters.

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And, it is time for the unveiling.

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It was a great day to be out, and a wonderful historic event to be part of. Was hard sitting for a couple hours under the tent, but, hey it is supposed to be 6 months to a year for me to be back to “normal” – whatever that is.

I highly recommend visiting the Saint-Gaudens National Historical Site, New Hampshire’s only National Park. I visit three or more times a year. The Sunday concerts at two PM are amazing. Just bring your picnic and wine – remember I was there July 5th last year? Applications for “dates” accepted.

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And, here is the schedule for this summer – you can click on the image to enlarge

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All I can say is, “RAY RECOMMENDS – VISIT SAINT-GAUDENS in Cornish, NH; and, Calvin Coolidge’s Plymouth Notch, VT.”  Gee, I was at both last year, will history repeat itself?

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BIRTHDAY BREAK – WHERE ELSE? – RLI – 13-15 MARCH 2016

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A wise customer and friend told me two things almost 25 years ago. “You will go broke buying a bargain; but, you will never go broke making a profit.”  Those words resonant in my mind, and guide my actions. On “cyber-Monday” last November I received many offers in emails, but took advantage of only two. If you are going anyway to a restaurant, or The Red Lion Inn, and you can purchase a gift card and get 20% more – that is a “no-brainer.” For my $250 expenditure at The Red Lion Inn, I got a $250 gift card and a “free” second one for $50. Then, on Leap Day 2016 an email arrived from The Red Lion Inn, “book a new reservation by the 29th of March by 11:29 PM, and get 29% off on your room. “Duh!! Another ‘no-brainer,’ I am going anyway.” I called, booked, and using my gift cards with the 29% Leap Year offer, I am getting 49% off on my room (in fact, two nights, two $50 plus dinners, wine, etc – cost me $18.95 – I paid cash! They still accept it.). For the last several years I have been treating myself at birthday time at the Inn, and have now been staying here for over twenty years.

My late-bride and I had a number of rooms before we settled in on 340 on the corner turret. Once I came back after losing her, I have moved to different rooms, but my room for years now has been 424 – a B&B room. My room is comfortable and to my liking, but with sink only, no bathroom, and I get breakfast. Cathy would never have had a bath “down the hall”, but since I spend all my time in the lobby, and no one else is on the fourth floor with me usually, I cannot beat the price – and the savings enables additional visits. Hey, you only sleep in the room. Here is my room (remember, with any of my “galleries” below, click on an image to open a larger slide show:

And, this is my spot in the lobby – woe be to anyone trying to sit here.  And, that is because I still hear her footsteps coming down the stairs.

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I was settled into the lobby at 4PM Sunday night, dinner at 7PM, back to the lobby to read. Following sleep, back to my spot by 8:30 AM with coffee, and breakfast at 9:30.

I have spent many of my visits here exploring back roads between here and the Hudson River. Last holiday here I explored new areas in Dutchess County, and this time I decided to spend Monday in the hills of Columbia County seeing towns I had not seen. So (get out your map) first it was down my favorite US Route 7 to Great Barrington to see what has changed (hardly anything in 50+ years), and a stop at an antique shop. Then crossing into Connecticut, I followed US 44 from Canaan west to Millerton, NY, for another antique center. Both spots have provided birthday presents in the past – but not his time. Hey, I need to get rid of stuff, but I do still need to “spoil myself.”  Next came climbs over the hills in farm county with what must be wonderful views when it is not overcast and drizzling I did see enough to know that.

Heading north on NY 22, I turned left onto backroads to Ancramdale and Ancram, both off the “beaten path” and not previously been visited. Here is the old general store in Ancramdale – now a lunch stop.

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and, then I turned around and saw an Octagon House. Popularized in the 1850s by Orson Fowler, they were efficient with more light and space utilization. You may recall I stayed in one last year in New Bedford, Massachusetts, and in October 2014 toured a fantastic one at the Genesee County Village and Museum in Mumford, NY .

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BD-9It was then on to Ancram via Route 82.  In my on-line research I saw a fantastic general store in the center of town – and FOR SALE for a palty $135,000. Ancram, named for the ancestral Scotland home of the noted Livingston family, had an early iron works. There is a “new” paper mill now on that site, and sadly I will not buy the general store, as I would never make enough money — but it would be a bucolic life. (HEY – don’t I have that here in Walpole!!!) Here is the perfect general store – SIMONS GENERAL STORE built 1873-4.

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and some more images – I know you want them, and click on any for a larger slide show !!!

It was then north on County Road 7 to Copake, and what would I see in the little village?

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yes (mark your card if you guessed correctly) another Octagon House.

Back onto NY 22 (which I really enjoy), Route 344 to Copake Falls was off to the right. I BD-16almost did not turn thinking I had been there, but I turned around and headed to the east. Guess what?  Never before had I been there to see the state park, the COPAKE IRONWORKS, and then Bash Bish Falls high in the hills on the border with Massachusetts. Worth another visit someday when “open.” You probably realize there is a thread here since I have reported on Saugus Iron Works in Massachusetts in 2013, and on the Kent Iron Furnace in October 2014. So, I will not go into much detail, but here is a flavor of the Ironworks in Copake Falls, NY

Copake Ironworks Furnace and Blower House

Copake Ironworks Furnace and Blower House

Continuing north on NY 22, I crossed NY 23 which heads east to Great Barrington, and west to Hudson, NY. Been on 23 before, but did not recall continuing north on 22. The plan, looking at the map, was to turn left on County Road 21 to see Harlemville, then Philmont, before turning north on County Road 9 to Ghent and Chatham. Interesting territory, not much, and fortunately I missed the sign for Route 9 — BECAUSE – Wouldn’t you stop when the sign reads ANTIQUE AUTO MUSEUM?

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Getting out of the car, the building to the left housed (using the term loosely) a 1957 Ford Fairlane sedan, and a 1956 Ford Convertible.

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Continuing to walk along the road to the left I gazed upon relics and more relics – nothing really too old, and nothing at this point salvageable. Henry, the owner’s son, saw me and wandered out to chat. We began to share stories as I gazed about the yard.

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He said, “we have a rare Model A Town Car in the basement, would you like to see it?” Why yes – I know that rare body style, but what I saw, his Dad had made with a hack saw, and wood panels.  Not sure if anything was salvageable on that wreck. I told Henry that I was looking for a 1928-29 Model A Touring Car to add to my stable. “Why, we have one upstairs, would you like to see it?”  Yes, and here it is:

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The rear was chopped off, replaced with a wooden homemade truck body, but the skin for the rear was folded in. Henry said he moved it there from downstairs about 6 months ago, but from the look of the dust and dirt I would say 12 years and 6 months. Henry did not make sense on a number of things, but was fun. Needless to say, I am still looking for my Touring Car “driver” to add to my harem.

We said goodbye, and then I saw the sign for Route 9 a few hundred feet back from the direction I had come from. It was off to Ghent (now been there) and into Chatham which I have visited before on RLI journeys. I looped over NY 295 to NY 22, and headed south to West Stockbridge, and thence “back home.”  It was lobby time for me.

I have a routine which by now you know, so I will not repeat. The plan for Tuesday was to head to the NY State Museum in Albany. The problem with touring in March is that most of what I want to see is not open until sometime in April, or after Memorial Day. I found the museum was only closed on Mondays. But, when I awoke I did not feel up to a museum, and with my coffee (yes, mark your card again – back in my spot in the lobby) I read my Albany related literature. One brochure I had brought was about all there is to do on US Route 4 from Troy to Whitehall — and, yes not open until April or Memorial Day. So, I decided to postpose Albany and the museum, and plan a sojourn in a great B&B in the Troy or Saratoga area to explore there for a couple days once all is open.

Leaving The Red Lion Inn I went north to Lenox, then backroads over to NY Route 22 and north to NY 2 east to Williamstown, Massachusetts. Then I checked out Bennington spots, and headed across VT 9 towards home. I found longtime friend, Gary Austin, in his book shop in Wilmington, and spent an hour or so catching up with him.

Another great time – plans made for another in the area, and “stay tuned.”  As always, yours, RAY

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FEBRUARY FINALE – 20-29 FEBRUARY 2016

One sixth gone is the year – hard to believe, particularly since I have not yet experienced page-1-march-2016winter. Blame me for the lack of snow and cold – I bought a new winter coat in November, and it is hanging still in the closet with new tags attached. Time goes fast, particularly working on The Walpole Clarion, and on Thursday I mailed what I consider our best looking issue, and with the  best content. I invite you to take a look by clicking hereand do subscribe to the on-line edition to keep up with our town events, and some of my writing.

Still no exotic trips in the works for 2016 as I am hesitating until I resolve a nerve issue which is impacting on my stamina and strength walking. Fixable I am told, and a second opinion coming on Friday. But, on the list for some time was my staying with Alex for awhile. You know that he and I are fortunate to have time and adventures together. This time David and Mari were both making presentations at a conference in Japan, and it only makes sense to tack on a holiday, particularly when someone else is paying the airfare. So here I have been the last week, getting him to school, making meals, etc. Usually when he is in school I can explore, do museums, etc. but this time of the year much of what I want to do is closed, so I brought cartons of work along. I have no idea where the time has gone as usual. But on Saturday, 27 February, we went out running.

The LARZ ANDERSON AUTO MUSEUM

The LARZ ANDERSON AUTO MUSEUM

“On my list” for ages has been to attend an Automotive Lawn Event at the Larz Anderson Auto Museum in Brookline, Massachusetts in the summer, and to see the museum housing the oldest car collection in America. We left at 11 AM, had lunch in Brookline, and entered the Anderson’s Carriage House, built in in 1888, and inspired by the Chateau de Chaumont-Sur-Loire in France – See more at the museum’s website, where I encourage you to learn about the Andersons.

Prominent, wealthy families in America since the outset, the museum is on the 65 acre grounds now forming the Larz Anderson Park. It was left to Brookline following  Isabel Anderson’s death in 1948. The family were benefactors in many ways over the years including building the Weld Boat House, and Anderson Bridge over the Charles River. Sadly the vacant mansion was torn down in 1955, and the gardens are not where they were, but what an asset to area residents — and automobile enthusiasts for the events held in good weather.

There are rotating exhibits in the main area as you enter, and this year motorcycles are featured.

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both old (above), and new below.

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The above image is for Scott. It was difficult stopping to read all the information panels with a 10 year old, but I will be back (hint, Scott)

The Andersons bought their first car in 1899 – an 1899 Winton. In the following decades they bought at least 32 new automobiles, retiring the old ones to the Carriage House. In 1927, they opened the Carriage House for public tours of their “ancient” vehicles. When Isabel died, her will stipulated that the motorcar collection be known as the “Larz Anderson Collection,” and a non-profit be established to oversee the collection. In 1949 the Veteran Motor Car Club of American (VMCCA) assumed stewardship. Fourteen of their cars remain, and in original condition (my favorite way to see cars – sadly some people “over-restore”)

Entrance to the Larz Anderson Collection

Entrance to the Larz Anderson Collection

And, the Anderson’s first car, an 1899 Winton Phaeton

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Most interesting radiator cap I have ever seen. Red and Green – Port and Starboard

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and, a 1907 Fiat

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Along with writing books of her travels, Isabel was the first woman licensed to drive in Massachusetts.

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Driving along the road on the estate up the hill to where the mansion was, this is the view looking north east to Boston (you can just make out the Prudential Center Building behind some trees).

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What next Alex?  A look at “what’s near” on Trip-Advisor. How about the zoo? And, off we went to the Stone Zoo in Stoneham, Massachusetts – just minutes from Alex’s home on the other side of the Fells and I-93. Many animals were not out since it was winter, but this is a nicely done 26 acre zoo.

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I have never seen a Bald Eagle up close – they are big!!!

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Nor have I been this close to a bear – a cage does make it easier

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And, Flamingos – in Massachusetts and in winter?  Don’t let the painted backdrop confuse you.

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And, some “fast facts” — MONKEY vs APE

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We have FaceTimed at least once a day – usually Alex and I say good night to his parents, and they say good morning – or visa versa. I made great progress with the projects I brought: historical society bookkeeping, CLARION invoicing, Ebay listings, and reading, research, and starting writing a booklet I have in the works – WALPOLE’S LOUISA MAY ALCOTT.

And, then there was the evening “binge watching” of MODERN FAMILY. David had bought all the seasons, and what a way to end your day, splitting open your sides. But I also read some travel literature I brought, so who knows?  As always, yours, RAY

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PRESIDENT’S DAY – WHERE ELSE WOULD I BE? – PLYMOUTH NOTCH, VT – 15 FEBRUARY 2016

12552904_10153399534386274_6649184834396343568_n-217x300It is Presidents Day 2015 – and if you know me, where would I be? Plymouth Notch, Vermont, of course. Especially when it is Presidents’ Day Open House sponsored by the Calvin Coolidge Presidential Foundation with a talk by Rushad Thomas – KEEP COOL AND KEEP COOLIDGE – THE STORY OF THE 1924 PRESIDENTIAL CAMPAIGN. You have probably heard me say before, “vote with your dollars,” and on my list for ages has been to support the Foundation. As I walked in the door and greeted Rushad, I told him of my desire, and he took me right away to the office to meet Kelley. I have now supported their great work as a Contributing Member. In a wonderful relationship, the Foundation is on the State of Vermont’s Calvin Coolidge Historic Site, and about four years ago built new offices and educational center attached to the State’s Welcome Center and Museum. A visit is an absolute must — did you hear me?

When I came back up from the offices, I saw the site’s administrator, Bill Jenney, and visited with him. The State of Vermont is so fortunate, as he is an amazing man, and passionate with his job and the history and importance of this site. Bill told me that my entourage was a hit at the Holiday Open House (read through to the end), and he hopes to have a repeat performance hat fashion show (did you read that my lady friends?). Bill also told me that he has begun work on 2016’s special exhibit – gifts that President Coolidge received. He was the last President who was allowed to keep what was given to him, and the family turned over to the state those items. Bill said we will be amazed at what he is selecting from the archives – hint !! hint !!

Just inside the lecture room, Rushad had selected a number of campaign items from the vaults for display.

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Every time I am at this wonderful historic and bucolic spot I always try to share new images and history for you to absorb. Here is a gallery of a few more things to entice you to visit. Just remember, click on any image to open up the gallery of larger images.

 

Rushad Thomas

Rushad Thomas

May I say, that Rushad’s 45 minute talk was outstanding (he is the Program and Editorial Associate at the Calvin Coolidge Presidential Foundation). It put in persecutive for me the politics of the country from Wilson through Harding to Coolidge in an overall world perspective. I never can remember everything, and following his talk, I asked him if he could post his talk so I could read it again. Once I have a link, I will provide it here. And, now Wednesday the 18th, and his talk is on-line on the Coolidge Foundation’s blog. Click this link, it is worth reading for fantastic history. Rushad did a wonderful job compiling and presenting it.

I awoke Tuesday 16 February remembering a few fast facts I thought you would enjoy and I forget to tell you. Men who had voted for Abraham Lincoln voted for Calvin Coolidge 60 years later; this was the second Presidential election women could vote in; Coolidge had only been in office for 8 months when the 1924 election process began; his youngest son died in July 1924 from blood poisoning; on September 9, 1924 a 56 day cross-county road rally began in Plymouth Notch. The idea of the tour came from the Home Town Coolidge Club, and followed the Lincoln Highway, but covered over 6,500 miles. You need to learn more.

And, when I left, I had to drive through my favorite place.

Sad without mounds of snow. Sad when closed.

Sad without mounds of snow. Sad when closed.

And, I drove up the hill (mountain) and then back into the village for this view I have not before shared. School House, Cheese Factory to the left, Calvin’s homestead ahead, and church to the right.

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And, on the way out of town.

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NOW — HERE IS AN OVERDUE POST FROM 5 December 2015. Read, view, and enjoy.

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Back on December 5th I was lucky to share the Christmas Open House in Plymouth Notch with Tara, Mimsy, and Carolyn. Sadly, there was not the snow that Tara and I experienced in 2013 for the holiday open house – that was the perfect snowy day. Nor was there a snow squall as I experienced in October of this year. But we had a fantastic time traveling up for lunch, the storyteller, hat show, and the finale – THE HAT CONTEST.

I write so much about this favorite spot of mine, that I will be brief. ME?

I showed the ladies the Summer White House of 1924. Climbing the stairs to the second floor above the general store, here is a view through a window back to the Notch Tea House and the summer cabins that would be rented out (but the Secret Service stayed there when the President was home)

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See the lack of snow? So sad in December. Here is a gallery of images upstairs in the dance hall that served as the summer White House. Do visit, there is so much more to see and learn, but here is a sampling, and just click on any image to open up the “gallery” with larger images.

I could not resist this window in the living area of the Coolidge’s birthplace.

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One of the highlights of the day was story teller Willem Lange’s reading of his wonderful holiday tale, “Favor Johnson: A Christmas Story.”  A well-known Vermont author and storyteller, he is also a popular public radio and television personality. Following his reading Carolyn scurried to purchase one of his books while Mimsy looked on.

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Finally it was time for the Main Event – the hat fashion show put on by the Black River Academy Historical Society from Ludlow. But, we had read the “fine print” that there was going to be prizes for folks coming in their own hats. Partying the night before, we prepared our entries.

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So we were ready…

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And we walked away with all the prizes — didn’t matter that we were the only ones who entered.

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And, on the way home from a perfect day, wouldn’t you stop with all your ladies for wine, cheese, nachos, and wine at the Phelps Barn Pub at the Grafton Inn in Grafton, Vermont?

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Hey, a two-month old story, is better than no documented story at all !!! Till next time, yours, RAY

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STILL ALIVE – PRIMARY DAY IN NH – 9 FEBRUARY 2016

I know, I know, you thought I had vanished (or worse) since it has been 2 1/2 months (since 25 November 2015) that you have heard from me. I have no idea where my time goes. Most of it to my publication, THE WALPOLE CLARION, but time just goes away. Business is good, my projects are good, and LIFE IS GOOD (all things considered).

But, I have a friend with whom “I click.” Actually, I click with a couple wonderful folks, and ironically those folks are lovely married ladies (well, I do have a couple grand single lady friends – no, not that way, sorry – but who knows?).  Kathy and I did go “antiquing” in Laconia last month, and were overdue for another outing. Heading east towards Goffstown was talked about, but potential snow stopped that last week. Today we decided to do something, and trek north to Quechee, Vermont to visit antique centers there, and lunch at Simon Pearce. But crossing the Connecticut River, we instead turned south on US 5 instead of north due to the snowfall. No real plans other than lunch at the Farm Table in Bernardston. It became another grand day out.

SANTA’S LAND – Putney, Vermont. You know my love of the place, and the fun Alex has had there. FOR SALE sign in front for the first time, I just checked $450,000 – who is in with me? Entering Brattleboro on US 5 I mentioned Rudyard Kipling’s home there. Kathy did not know of it – so a U-Turn, and up into the hills. You may remember that BLUE BELLE and I visited there in June last year. Kathy was impressed, and the views and road were totally different without leaves and a covering of snow.

Driving through Brattleboro I asked, “so did you know the Estey Organs were made here?” I thought she knew everything old. “No, she replied.” Right turn, and there we were.

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What amazes me is the number of factory buildings sided with slate. Kathy had never seen this either – amazing. Make sure you visit the Estey Organ Museum.

Heading out of Brattleboro on US 5 the next village is Guilford. Well, someone had told me I had to explore there, but on US 5 is only the old mill area. A right turn heading east changed all that. And with the spark of snow enhancing the scenery and views, it was magical.

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Built in 1817, the CHRIST CHURCH has a commanding view looking east to the river and New Hampshire.

We then headed out Guilford Center Road to the west. Guilford is big – land wise ! And was this worth the trip entering the small crossroads. How can you not enjoy seeing colonial architecture totally unspoiled?

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And, here is the meeting house. As I recall, it was here I was invited to (but did not make it due to the last minute invitation) to see a performance of Tourists Accommodated – I produced and directed this play a number of years ago, and consider that one of my best accomplishments.

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Built in 1837, the stone with the plaque in front of the Guilford Center Meeting House commemorates the first president of Tufts University. Note the staircases crossing the front windows. I cannot wait to get inside this structure.

Then, across the street, I flipped out, seeing this sign in front of the Historical Society.

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Alright Ray, who the …. is Royall Tyler. Well, his novel, THE ALGERINE CAPTIVE, was first published in Walpole at Isaiah Thomas’ press here in 1797, and became the first American novel ever republished in England. Royall moved to Guilford in 1791. I should have taken a 360 degree video from this spot – the country setting is amazing.

Then, more country back roads – yes, dirt under the snow. Following along streams, I should have taken pictures for you, but if I stopped the car it may have slid over the edge into the brook (or river – we had a discussion as to the definition of brook vs. stream vs. river) Answers please !!!

Arriving back on US 5 and “civilization” we headed south to Bernardston and Kringle Candle and the Farm Table Restaurant. CLOSED until February 11th. “Hey, Kathy, you want to wait, or head to the Deerfield Inn.”

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I have stopped before for dinner on the way home from sojourns. Lunch was fantastic. Our server, Nicole S., was tremendous, food divine, but as Kathy pointed out the decorating is not Colonial as we would like, but….

Last minute decision to go to a few antique shops in Northampton that Mimsy and I had discovered in December. I wanted to show Kathy an $850 doll (she is a premier doll dealer in the US).  It was not to her liking, but the shop owner (of about 45 years) was a hoot, and a challenge, and did end up with a good number of C notes following Kathy’s discoveries and purchases.

Deadhead home then on I-91.  I have to get into the swing of travel again. I have had a back problem impinging on some nerves that have impacted on my leg strength and stamina. Another doctor appointment soon, and maybe I can get it resolved. But, the planning is beginning, and I hope I will have a great deal to share with you in 2016.

GOD BLESS, as always, yours, RAY

 

 

 

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A COUPLE EXPERIENCES THAT YOU SHOULD EXPERIENCE – 17-22 NOVEMBER 2015

Sometimes I just have to share, and I thought I would share a few experiences from the past week that you could enjoy (mainly images) while waiting for that little thing to pop out on your Butterball Turkey telling you it is done. If you do not make it to the end of the post (but you had better), may I wish you a very safe and happy Thanksgiving Day.

On Tuesday the 17th, it was back to Concord, Massachusetts, to see a special exhibit at Louisa May Alcott’s Orchard House where she wrote LITTLE WOMEN. Remember the trip there with friends this July 30th?  Arriving in Concord with friend and neighbor Kathy, I turned down the side street looking to see what eateries may be there. We parked, and spent a great, unplanned next 1 1/2 hours in antique shops – Kathy is the premier antiques dealer in the state. We asked several people for lunch recommendations, and when I was feeding the parking meter, she asked a gentleman on the sidewalk, who looked like he enjoyed his meals, for a recommendation. We got in the car and headed to the COLONIAL INN on the square a few blocks away.

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My lunch was so good – and filling, that I enjoyed the second half at home the next day. (remember to click on any image in my “galleries” to get the full image)

It was then onto Orchard House. It was terribly hot there in July, and crowded. This time we almost had the tour to ourselves, but another couple arrived at the last moment. We still had an extended tour and opportunity to look at the special displays in each room of objects, illustrations and photographs that were used in the new ANNOTATED LITTLE WOMEN by Pulitzer Prize winning author John Matteson.

Orchard House, Concord, Massachusetts - November 2015

Orchard House, Concord, Massachusetts – November 2015

It was time to head home since Kathy’s husband, Eno, was going to have dinner ready for us. Kathy had once stopped at what she called a fascinating farm stand with special antiques and gifts. I googled and searched, and finally narrowed in on it — Spring Brook Farm in Groton, Massachusetts.

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Open daily from 9 AM to 7 PM, the farm began in 1713, and ten generations later, the original family still works this land. PLAN A VISIT – an easy few minutes north of the intersection of Massachusetts Route 2 and I-495. And here are a few reasons why to stop:

One display of fruits and vegetables.

One display of fruits and vegetables.

One of the displays of fascinating gifts, and very reasonably priced.

One of the displays of fascinating gifts, and very reasonably priced.

And, when I saw this pedestal and wire tree – it spoke to me, “take me home.” And, I did.

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Now the fun will begin decorating.

The next day, Scott and Betty arrived for a visit. Over 20 years ago, Scott and my Cathy worked together, and when on Lotus Development Corporation sponsored trips, Betty and Cathy shopped together. The type of friends who, if you have not been in the same room for two years, when you get together it is like yesterday. Since retiring in their early 50s a few years back they have travelled the country in their Airstream, and are now volunteers in the National Parks. And, we always “play” hard!

Thursday was a dreary day, but the plan was to visit the Vermont Country Store in Weston, VT, and then meander on back roads to Brattleboro, and then over to see the CRUCIBLE performed in Keene following a Mexican dinner.  When I was in Weston on the walking tour on August 8th, I vowed to return soon to visit their museums. As we entered the village from the north I saw the door open on the Old Mill Museum. That necessitated a quick stop. What luck, we discovered that the tinsmith, Dave Claggett, was gathering some things in his shop for a show, but we explored before chatting with him.

As you enter the mill, you seen this sign about tinsmithing (Dave’s shop is to the rear)

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Dave Claggett, resident tinsmith in Weston.

Dave Claggett, resident tinsmith in Weston.

The museum is worthy of a special visit. On exhibit are some of the most fascinating tools and early farm equipment. Please open up, and enjoy this gallery:

And, this view is looking off the porch of the mill south. The back of the Weston Playhouse is the white building on the left.

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And, the next few hours were spent in the Vermont Country Store, which you know I visit many times a year.  It is always different, nostalgic on many levels, and great fun.

Yes, that spot is one of the “Holy Grail” points in my life, and what amazes me are the threads that have run though me since childhood. Everything I do and enjoy today (including shunpiking) I can trace back to my teens and pre-teens (even trying to print a newspaper on my 3×5 Kelsey Printing Press).

We then ate lunch (as we have done in the past) at the Bryant House next door. Fabulous atmosphere (you know I love an “old” ambience), but the food – WOW. Here is my VEGETABLE MELT (click to enlarge)

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Grilled portabella mushrooms served open-faced with roasted red peppers, , and assorted seasonal veggies, topped with The Vermont Country Store Cheddar and organic pea greens, served on flatbread points with sun-dried tomato spread.

In their travels, Betty avidly collects stamps in her bulging National Parks Passport. But, on our last visit to Saint Gaudens she did not have her passport with her. And, most of their travel blog posts end with an image of the craft beers they are sampling. So on Friday we headed north — yes, to Cornish, NH, and to Windsor, VT.

On Route 12A, west of downtown Claremont, I have always passed a NH Historical Marker pointing to the east, but surprisingly never made the turn. This time we did.

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We followed the little road heading to the UNION CHURCH, the oldest standing Episcopal Church in the state, built from 1771-1773.

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And directly across the street on Old Church Road (what else should the road’s name be?) is the oldest Roman Catholic Church in the state. I will have to get a photo when the sun is not directly behind the church

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Heading back to Route 12A north, another historic spot is the birthplace of

CMA-32Salmon Chase. Years ago when this was a B&B, Cathy and I stopped for a tour inside, but also to walk around the outside of the building. It was this stop that convinced us to remove all the recent shrubbery from my 1806 colonial to make it more appropriate.

 

 

 

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And, then we arrived at St. Gaudens. Only the grounds and visitor center were open, but Betty got her passport stamp. Then Gregory, the park’s head of interpretation came out to greet us. I always see him on my visits, he is amazingly friendly, everywhere, and as we learned extremely knowledgeable. We watched the introductory movie, but first he told us about this model of Standing Lincoln.

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The original sculpture is in Lincoln Park in Chicago, and recently a new cast has been made and will be unveiled on the Park’s grounds during ceremonies on June 26, 2016, at 2 PM – mark your calendars, and join me. (I will have just returned from the Grand Prix)

Gregory told us the amazing story of the Shaw Memorial (on the Boston Common) that Augustus Saint-Gaudens took 14 years to complete. Well, he was pushed to “finish” it for installation at Boston, but was not pleased with it. He continued to rework it, and his final work was later cast in bronze to be exhibited on the grounds here. Betty and I were both trying to get the full moon in this shot.

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And, heading down to the parking lot, here is their home, Aspet, built in 1817, and the “new” studio to the left rear. The sun was almost set.

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Back down Route 12, right across the Connecticut River on the longest covered bridge in America, and north on US 5 to — HARPOON BREWERY. Tours are only given Friday evenings, and Saturday and Sundays when the brewery is not  in full operation (hey, the stuff in the tanks do their own thing 24 hours a day). You know my timing, we arrived moments before the first tour began.

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What amazed me is that after the introduction we were toured throughout the facility. No marked pathways, no barriers, just the guide and us with glass in hand for sampling.

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And, at the end it was time to have something to eat in the restaurant, and have some beer. Over 20 different varieties, and we learned (at least I did) that just with mixed drinks there are different style and shaped glasses to accentuate the taste and aroma of the brews.

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And, here is Betty getting ready to take her image.  As I said, many of their travel blogs end with their topped off glasses. Their signature.

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RAY RECOMMENDS:

1] Explore all Weston, Vermont, has to offer. Their museums, the Vermont Country Store, and eat at the Bryant House.

2] I have said it before — ST. GAUDENS, but now you also have to explore Old Church Road in Claremont.

3] Even if not a beer drinker, enjoy the Harpoon Brewery tour, and grab a bite to eat there. Have enjoyed doing that twice this year.

4] And, have a HAPPY THANKSGIVING — As always, yours, RAY

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MAINLY MAINE – A NEEDED BREAK 9-11 NOVEMBER 2015

HELLO – I keep so busy that it has been 4 days since I got home, and not had the time to tell you what I experienced. But, the main thing for me is to write to remind myself, and sharing with you is an added benefit for me.  I was ready for a break. Sadly we will not be able to stage A CHRISTMAS CAROL this year because at the auditions we were short 3/4 of the needed cast. That gave me time to focus then on THE WALPOLE CLARION, which I am now the sole owner of, and publisher for. I am very pleased about that.

Cape Porpoise, Maine

Cape Porpoise, Maine

But in the back of my mind was to explore more in depth lower seacoast Maine, even though it is “closed this time of year.” I tried booking at an Inn in Portsmouth, NH, but they did not get back to me (until I was already in Maine). Then I found an interesting Victorian B&B in Ogunquit, but before they replied I found a Colonial B&B in Ogunquit, The Black Boar Inn, the original part built circa 1674, and the addition in 1720. I booked there, “a meant to be due” due to the delightful 2 1/2 hour breakfast I had with a lovely lady and an hour plus the next. We had shared much of life’s experiences, and beliefs and philosophies. It was fun, and she and her husband live nearby, so hopefully we will visit again. But, stop “talking Ray,” and tell us where you explored.

BLACK BOAR INN

BLACK BOAR INN

Before leaving, I pulled many booklets of the Maine regions from my archives, and a great 1991 (yes 24 years old) book on country roads and byways in Maine. I like the author’s routes and philosophies; e.g., this is a road guide written in the form of an “old fashioned travel guide,” and go “on a drive – not a guided tour,” “take pleasures as you find them.”  I developed a route — BUT, take note vacation booklet makers — include a local map, and to be really helpful make it the centerfold.

Do I ever go a direct route? NO ! I made arrangements to deliver an item I sold on Craig’s List to Dover, NH. Not having been there, I was able to then cross the border to South Berwick, Maine, then Berwick, back across the river to see Somersworth, NH, and then let WAZE take me backroads to York Village to follow the coast up to Ogunquit.

York consists of York Harbor, York Village, and York Beach. I need to revisit York Village in the spring when the Old York Historical Society reopens its 7 historic buildings. In the early 1900s, celebrated people, including Mark Twain, discovered the underdevelopment of this area with its 18th century charm. To preserve that, they purchased the structures forming the core of the historic village.

Cutting over to the coast, I worked my way north along the beaches to Nubble Light, built in 1879, on Cape Neddick. The sun was setting, and now you know why artists flock to the Maine coast and this most popular spot. The colors change every moment.

Nubble Light - 1879 - Cape Neddick, Maine

Nubble Light – 1879 – Cape Neddick, Maine

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and, then, not more than two minutes later (and the flashing light came on too)

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With the sun setting quickly about 4:30, I headed up the coast to Ogunquit to The Black Boar Inn on US Route 1 in the village center. I had selected the King James II room on the first floor with original Indian Shutters.

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But, I had the whole first floor to myself, and spent most of my time in the sitting room. The second night I had a fire.

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I followed my host’s recommendation for dinner, and experienced the Five-O Shore Road Restaurant. My Sea Scallops ($32) with Delicata squash, braised pancetta, pomegranate, baby arugula was amazing.

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At breakfast Tuesday morning, I was seated, and an exuberant and happy Heidi came in introducing herself. She too needed a break from a hectic few months, but her husband could not take the time.  In the next 2 1/2 hours we shared our life stories (so similar on many levels), and solved the world’s problems – wouldn’t that be nice. At least we shared, and agreed on, what would make the world a better place.

OG-7After 11AM, it was time to depart on my planned route continuing up the coast to Cape Porpoise before turning around. Of course, I was on the less travelled Shore Road, Route 9. I first past the Rachel Carson Refuge, and stopped to browse the visitor center to reacquaint myself with this fascinating woman, and original ecologist.

Before arriving in Kennebunkport I passed Antiques on Nine, but was fascinated, soOG-33 did a U-Turn. Not really antiques, but wonderful repurposed items, and European imports, I was very much impressed with the furnishings and decorator items. If I had another home to furnish, I would back up a truck, and fill it up. Worth the stop. And, eventually I need to make a unique fountain for my porch.

Arriving in Kennebunkport, I was glad it was “off season.” I have passed through before (also off season) and would never want to be here with crowds. Strictly a tourist stop, and traffic would also be at a stop, with no places to stop and park. STOP RAY, that is enough with the “stops.” But, RAY RECOMMENDS – don’t Stop at Kennebunkport, and circle around in summer.

Entering the "fray" at Kennebunkport, Maine

Entering the “fray” at Kennebunkport, Maine

Typical gift shop:

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and, its interior

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I left town on Route 1, but remembering I had forgotten to head to Walker Point, and I had WAZE route me back to the point. I love WAZE and end up on great back roads with scenery and architecture most people miss.  Download the WAZE App !!! What I had to get for you was the obligatory image of the Bush Family Compound (yes, as in Presidents)

Walker Point, Kennebunkport on a rainy day.

Walker Point, Kennebunkport on a rainy day.

I continued up along the shore, having it all to myself – just perfect. Arriving in Cape Porpoise, I got a wrap in the deli (only choice in “town” – and you have to stop to see their goodies and displays), and then took it down to a park bench in the harbor overlooking Goat Island and the Cape Porpoise lighthouse.

From my park bench at Cape Porpoise

From my park bench at Cape Porpoise

and, looking to the right at the pier where lobsters were being unloaded

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the big companies have shanties out in the harbor where the local lobstermen bring their catch, sell it, and transfer the poor things into the plastic containers on these boats to be brought to shore, unloaded, put in a truck, and head off.

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I then figured I would head north to cut west to Arundel to head back to Oqunquit on US Route 1 (it was soon to be dark). I turned a corner, and there was the Seashore Trolley Museum. Remember the afternoon I spent there 11 September 2012?

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And, at the corner of Route 1 was the Arundel Antique center where I “scored with books” in 2012, and did so again. Darn, I am good at what I do !

Relax back at the B&B, another couple was now upstairs, but I still had the sitting room for myself. I decided to walk the two blocks “downtown” and glance at menus. My second look at the menu at The Old Village Inn, and I went in. Again, so nice to be off season. I enjoy salmon, and love the many ways it can be prepared and experienced. And this entree was only $19 !!! And, wonderful !!!

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Wednesday morning Heidi and I visited for about an hour and a half before she headed home to the Woodstock, Vermont, area. It was badly overcast and rainy, but I headed to the southern section of Ogunquit to see Perkins Cove.

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There is a lovely shore walk – Marginal Way (land along the margins of the land owners), but weather did not permit my exploration. I soon cut back over to Route 1 to quickly get back to York Village, to head back along the shore to Kittery Point. I stopped at The York Antiques Gallery.  I recommend you stop. Nice to again see nice quality items and not what is passed off as antiques nowadays which is basically cast-off yard sale junk. Sadly, nothing tempted my checkbook.

I turned left off US 1 to York Village, headed out of town on 1A turning south at the start of 103 to Kittery Point and Kittery. But at the corner where I turned was Stonewall Kitchens headquarters. I stopped and looked, and “grazed.”

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I had to see the Frisbee General Story (you know me and country stores) established in 1828, and still in the original family – but currently almost empty and for sale.

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the interior still had many original, or at least early features.

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and, looking across the street to the Post Office – closed for Veteran’s Day

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And, Kittery Point has to be explored again and again after more research on the history and especially the colonial architecture. In fanning out toward US 1 before coming back to cross Memorial Bridge to Portsmouth I suddenly saw a small sign pointing to the right – “Kittery Historical & Naval Museum.”  I knew nothing about the museum. I stopped (of course), and RAY RECOMMENDS — go visit to learn about this area and its amazing history. I will be going again. Here is the view upon entering.

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Here was an interesting display of Navy dinner ware.

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and, turning left, above a doorway was this plaque:

Capt. David F. Purinton

Capt. David F. Purinton

I could not believe it, my heart skipped a beat. Capt. Purinton was my first Commanding Officer on the USS Bushnell AS-15 in Key West, Florida. This was my first duty station after graduating from Navy Supply Corps School. I was on board from 1969-1971, and he retired during that time period. He must have moved back to the Kittery, Maine, area because the museum was established in 1976.

The history video was well done, and worth seeing again, all the displays supporting the area history, equally well done, but the most amazing thing there (I thought) was —

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Capt. Purinton was also instrumental in getting this structure preserved here. Essentially like a partial blockhouse, the walls are hewn timbers 6-8 inches thick, and wide. My images cannot give it full justice.

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With many additions over the years, the original Garrison House was uncovered during the dismantling of the home.

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Before crossing the Memorial Bridge to Portsmouth I needed to explore the Foreside Neighborhood.  Kittery is a village of neighborhoods, and I had read about Foreside in one of my 15,000 plus books. The business area sits outside Gate 1 to the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard. Sitting at the window of Lil’s enjoying soup and salad, I felt as though I was experiencing the area during World War II.

Getting close to 4PM, so I went through Portsmouth, NH, without stopping to pick up US 4 towards Concord and home. Once you pass Durham, you enter what is known as “Antique Alley”, and I made several stops, and bought two books.

Arriving home, and reflecting back, I did so very much, saw so much more than I have shared here. And look forward to re-exploring the area. May I recommend you explore and experience the lower coast of Maine – but if not a beach person (as I am not) do so when it is mainly closed.

 

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