Shunpiking with Ray

This Picture is for Cathy

The sun has finally gone down (about 9:30) and the tide is up, the winds howling, and the sea is actually hitting my second story windows in this quiet 1909 row-type house on the bay in Dingle.  What a town this is, fascinating.  So much to share, but let me start with dinner last night.   My hostess suggested a 1740 hotel for dinner in Cashel last night.  I walked over (an advantage of B&Bs in town, particualarly since parking is difficult at best in medieval towns).  I was not too hungry so passed on the formal dining room and ate in the bar/pub, ordering what I thought would be a small light chicken breast.  WOW, the plate was full especially with two types of potatoes and many vegetables.  I mentioned this to my hostess this morning and she said, “In Ireland we prefer to look at our food instead of having to look for our food.”  Afterwhich she said, the more you pay for a meal, the less you get it seems — so true.  Well in Murphy’s Pub tonight I had the same experience – a mounding plate – corned beef and cabbage and many vegetables.

I was at the Rock of Cashel when it opened this morning, and spent a fascinating 3 hours.  The English video was not until 10:40 and an English tour not until much later, so I started off on my own to explore and read the plaques (I read a great deal last night to be ready).  Not wanting to be an ugly tourist I had not brought my camera, but soon went out to get it (fortunately).  Much of the structure is currently under conservation to stablize the sandstone, and also there were men everywhere working on sprucing things ups — seems Queen Elizabeth is coming for a visit on 20 May my B&B family told me.  The place started filling up with tour buses, so my timing was right, but as I was walking out a private guide was starting with an American tour group, so I slid right in — she was an amazing historian, equal to those I have had with Road Scholar trips.  Afterwards I walked downtown to the small history exhibit in the TI (Tourist Information center) and learned much about the development of a typical medieval walled town.  Even with having had an Irish Breakfast at the B&B I thought I should get a small bite, so did something Cathy and I often did in England, I went into the local grocery.  Well, it is always important to go into foreign stores to get a flavor (no pun intended), and after looking at all the unique items I picked up a BLT and salad selection.  A bargain, and “living like the locals.”

I then headed off for Dingle taking about 5 hours for a 3 1/2 hour trip making a few stops and circuits.  Different countryside from what I saw on Sunday.  I drove through the Glen of Aherlow back up to Tipperary to Limerick then to Tralee, but stopping at the interesting town of Adare. From Tralee I headed along the North side of the Peninsula on the Atlantic, and chose to take the Conor Pass over the mountain instead of the easy route.  Was this great – some images below.  Tonight after eating I walked around this neat town.  Music does not start until about 9:30 in the pubs, so I will give it a try tomorrow, starting at one that “spans three centuries.”  I don’t think there are many “tourists” here yet, and imagine the pubs are really hopping then.

Well, I have a slow internet connection here, so will start uploading a few images and then study my trip around the Peninsula for tomorrow – actually can start that while images upload, and once they are done I can post and email you.  Good night, RAY

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Shunpiking in Ballingarry, Co. Tipperary, Ireland

Where do I  begin?  Saturday had a great afternoon with David and his family, and he took me to Boston Logan at 4PM.  Easy check-in and boarding, pleasant flight to Dublin, and I caught a few hours sleep on the plane before arriving at 5:30 AM.  One thing I worried about was making sure I could get Euros from an ATM, I had all bases covered (ATM card, Pin number for credit card, etc)  only thing I did not count on was a storm that knocked out all the ATM systems in Dublin the night before.  Well again to solve all I did borrow 50 Euros from David (he carries many different currencies at all times), and eventually I found a working ATM in a little village.   Car check in was also very easy, and I have a lovely 5 speed Diesel Renault.

Instead of driving straight to Cashel, the other night I decided to drive to the 6th century Glendalough Monastic site passing first Powerscourt Gardens (not open at 8 AM) and then over the Wicklow Mountains.  I then followed back roads (once you leave the few motorways they are all back roads) eventually arriving in Kilkenny where I had lunch and toured the castle.   When a 12th century castle is owned by one family as a residence for 500 years it gets modernized at various time periods, so viewing this was interesting, and some of the 19th century “upgrades” are still extant.  Finishing up there I found the back road to Cashel that took me past the Famine Warhouse which was the site of a rebellion in 1848.  I want to learn as much as I can about the Famine, and the resulting deaths and migrations that lasted over 100 years – you may find it interesting.

Another intriguing thing I can’t get over (note picture above) is that the roads (even through fields) cannot be straight – have only room for 1 3/4 cars at best – and have hedgerows either natural, below grade, or formidable stone walls – towering blocking views, and leaving no place to go.  Something I have to learn about.

In my reading at dinner (in a small pub in an ancient hotel) I found a way off the path walled medieval town I want to visit tomorrow.  Kilkenny was a walled town, but too big for me to enjoy (remember I connect to Walpole more than a big city like Keene – ha ha).  I am afraid if I ramble along too much that you may not come back and read again, so I will sign off for now and upload and label a few images in a slide show below.  Thanks for visiting with me.

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It was just a tad over 6 weeks ago that I got the “bug” to go to Ireland, and bought my ticket and rental car.  Well, have I had fun since then reading, learning, and planning this trip.  Rick Steves’ book on Ireland was invaluable, and I often wonder how we planned trips in pre-internet days.

I have played with the route in many directions, but with the constant reminder that when I travel my plans can change as I discover something I did not know about.  So, in brief, here is the plan.  The first day I will travel to Cashel from Dublin stopping at the Kilkenny Castle and the Famine Warehouse museum.  The castle is one of the Heritage sites, and I will pick up my pass for 16 Euros – good for a year at all sites — a real bargain. 

Joy's Rockside House

My first B&B is in Cashel, where I will visit the Rock of Cashel. The next day I will travel to the Dingle Peninsula (3 hours, no real plans along the way – maybe go to Limmerick) where I will spend two nights. The full day there I will tour the peninsula.  One stop will be Dunquin where Ryan’s Daughter was filmed. The DVD finally arrived from Netflix today. Dingle is a village of 1,000 with over 50 pubs all with nightly music.  The fourth day I will travel to Kinsale stopping along the way at Muckross House, Ross Castle, Macroom, and whatever I find along the way. 

Just yesterday I decided to spend two nights in Kinsale because there is so much I want to do in the area there, and you will get the details later on.  Also this classic village of 3,000 is the culinary center of Ireland with over 50 unique restaurants.   I will be staying in a newer cottage, a short walk to the village, Four Winds B&B.   My last full day I will travel towards Waterford stopping at a museum I want to see in Cobh, and depending upon what I do along the way I will find my final B&B about a two hour drive to the airport.  So, there’s the plan, stayed tuned. 

Four Winds Bed & Breakfast

Last Cottage Dingle

LAST COTTAGE DINGLE  —  link