Shunpiking with Ray

Pub in Thomastown where I am sitting posting this

Last night, Friday, 13 May, and I am in Thomastown, Ireland.  I got more done that I planned today, and got closer to Dublin than I thought I would.  I am, however, typing this into my Word Processor with the hopes of uploading it later in a local pub – but that comes later.  Today I also had my first disappointment, but if you know me I always try “to make a positive out of a negative” and it worked again for me.

I left Kinsale for Cobh, and made it in 45 minutes using the little river ferry, saving 15 minutes from Google-maps – and that was another adventure.  I enjoyed the Queenstown Story in the beautifully restored Victorian train station.  Mainly story boards, videos and mock-up scenes, the exhibit covered Irish emigration both of convicts and from the famine, the Titanic (made its last stop in Cobh – then called Queenstown following the Queen’s visit in 1849, but changed back when Ireland gained its independence), the Lusitania, ocean liner history from emigration to tourism and its demise.  I then drove through the town along the waterfront, and it probably still has the look and feel that the emigrants would have seen when they were leaving their homeland.  My next planned stop far, far exceeded my expectations, and Betty, Scott and Rich it is time for a “road-trip” to Midleton and the Jameson Experience.  This was mentioned in the Rick Steves’ book, otherwise I would have never thought of stopping at the old distillery of Jameson Irish Whiskey which operated at this site for 150 years closing in 1975 when they built a new facility adjacent to the original 11 acres.  I asked several times, and unbelievably the equipment (including massive 160 year old cast iron waterwheel) and buildings remained unchanged for those 150 years (however many structures date to the 1790s), and just as hard to believe the facility (the largest remaining original industrial site in the British Isles, if I recall correctly) remained vacant and untouched until opened in 1993 as this fabulous and educational tour.  I can’t say enough good about this experience.  From Steves’ book I knew to immediately raise my hand when the guide asks for volunteers, and I was selected with a few others.  Instead of just getting a glass of Jameson Irish Whiskey we performed a taste test comparing Scotch Whiskey (Scotch whiskey is distilled only twice and has a smoky flavor), American Jack Daniels Whiskey (distilled only once and sweeter), and the three times distilled Irish Whiskey which is then aged for a minimum of 3 years unlike the others.  Well, no comparison – I loved the Jameson Irish Whiskey.  Well, we “tasters” were asked to put our names on our ticket stubs for the drawing of a prize – well surprise, we all got “official whiskey taster certificates” with our names.

Since I am not a city person, I decided to use the bypass around Waterford.  I also felt that since I do know about glass making, especially taking guests to Simon Pearce, even though Cathy probably paid for the Waterford Visitor Center that I did not have to stop.  Instead I headed to New Ross (where I thought I might stay) to see the Dunbrody Famine Ship.  It was my first disappointment – not a good tour, and believe it or not I do know a great deal about ships, even 19^th century sailing ships.  Also, New Ross, a “blue-collar” town was a tad disappointing, so I continued on North hoping to find a little village with a B&B and pub.  Well, I did much better!

I decided to take a back road back towards N25 to M9 to Dublin – there were two towns on the route.  I almost knocked on the door of a hotel in the beautiful village of Inistioge, but continued on and soon spied the 13th century Grennan Castle. 

13th Century Castle

 Well, round the bend (maybe a couple bends) I drove into Thomastown – an almost unspoiled 14^th century Medieval Walled Town (with walls still remaining).  This is the place I had hoped to find for my last night – now to find a B&B.  I drove over the 18^th century bridge, and there was a pub and B&B (and with an internet café – too good to believe).  I went it, found the owner, “oh, I have not done the B&B in years, but my friend back in town runs one in the castle, I will call him.”  Well, Ben had room, and it was suggested I walk back to check it out.  You see, not only are there narrow streets, they are circular one way, and in the early 19^th century they opened up the side of the castle so you could easily get into the courtyard – the bartender thought I should check it out before navigating (reminded me of a narrow passage Cathy and I had to drive through to park our first night in Switzerland years ago).  The opening, however, is for a cart of the times.  Inside the courtyard I met Ben, and essentially there was a newer addition (20^th century) with the rooms – BUT, I am in a medieval city and castle.  I walked around for a long time enjoying the town, and the Catholic church at the top of the hill.  In the village there is another church built within the ruins of probably a 14^th or 15^th century church.  I had dinner at a bistro across the lane which in 2010 was named with the best in Ireland – they have a second place in Kilkenny.

Well, the end of a perfect day and perfect week. It is about 10 PM here and I am going to walk over to the pub, see if his internet works, order a pint of Guiness, and hopefully upload this to the blog software, if that is not possible (not done it before) maybe I can copy/paste this to an email.  Thanks for travelling with me, as always, RAY

14th Century Town House Castle where I am sleeping tonight

A full day plus in Kinsale.  I can run harder and do more than most people half my age – 13 1/2 hours out and about today in Kinsale and environs.  Kinsale I could easily spend many days in, and even though I have done most things here I would not mind coming back and experiencing things again, and probably with a different more relaxed outlook.

I went to the 9:15 AM history walking tour that Rick Steves’ says is the best thing here — it was great.  From there I did the Desmond Castle (in various lives it was the old customs house, French prison, held American prisoners, poor-house for famine victims, undertaker establishment, and now even a wine museum).  But at the town’s museum I had a volunteer spend a long time with me.  It is in the old courthouse built 500 years ago, and essentially unchanged.  It was here that the inquest was held following the sinking of the Lusitania in 1915.  All the artifacts in the museum are Kinsale related. They have the original charters (no where near kept in proper security or climate control) dating back to 1601 hanging on the wall. Artifacts from the town’s 19th century 8 foot 2 inch giant, Lusitania items (see deck chair to the left) and on and on.  No photos allowed, but he said I could take some in opposite direction from the charters on the wall — I used just available light!  I then headed off to the Charles Fort for more history, and a guide helped me try to understand the wars of 1601, 1690 and the shifts of power — I am getting it down, but was able to buy a few books in the local bookshop on the local history and famine.

Main Street - Kinsale - Crooked because the street originally followed the harbor shore line. The houses on the right were built where the original Medieval Town Wall was.

Dingle Harbor from remote James Fort

I hate to leave here tomorrow morning, and cant’t believe I have had 5 full days in Ireland with only one left.  Friday I have a museum I want to see in Cobh, a distillery just up the road from there, and head to Waterford.  I do not have a B&B booked for tomorrow night, but will wait and see how far I can get from Waterford to have a shorter trip Saturday morning to the airport.  Part of my plan in B&Bs was WI-FI to keep in touch, if that does not work tomorrow I can at least type into my wordprocessor and do a copy/paste to a blog post when I have access at the airport.  So much more I want to write and remember – will have to work on it at home. 

My hostess just found me typing in the sitting room – she had been looking out the window often to see if I had returned — no guest has ever had such a long day out in town she said — but that is RAY !!!

Another day filled to completion, and then some.  Some rains as I was driving off the peninsula, but that was it.  I made it to Killarney in the time Google-maps said it would take, and had to continue just past the town/city to get to the Killarney National Park to see the Ross Castle and Muckross House.  Circling the town it is modern, and according to Rick Steves’ guide – can be missed – I agree.  It is a hub for name-tag totting tourists – UGH.

Ross Castle

I first stopped at the Ross Castle, showed my Heritage Card and got my ticket for the 10:40 tour – about a 35 minute wait, but time to read all the information on the boards in the exhibition room.  One thing I find strange is at the Heritage sites there is great history posted, wonderful exhibits and lectures, BUT no books or booklets available at all recounting that history.  In fact, these government sites don’t even have gift shops as we do in the states.  I for one would have love to bought books on some of the places I have seen, so they have missed out.  I usually do not remember things well, but certainly did at the Ross Castle as to its structure, demise, and restoration – opening only in 1993.  I will not go into the history now, including the story of the Philadelphian (who rebuilt Washington, DC including the White House under Truman’s administration – I have seen the pictures of that years ago – quite a story) who owned it and gave it to Ireland, but I have “fast facts” that I learned on the tour.  The sparse furnishings are original pieces of the 16th and 17th centuries that would typically be found in such a defensive tower.  I asked about the way in which the rushes were held in a “Rush Lamp.”  After the rushes are bound they are clipped into the stand horizontally, and lit at both ends – thus “burning your candle at both ends.”  In the bed chamber there was a niche in the stone work above and adjacent to the chimney.  This was to keep a newborn infant, “a cubby” warm – thus a “cubby hole.”  Life expectancy for people living inside such a tower was 28-34 years due to respiratory problems from the lime in the whitewash walls, smoke, and the lead in the pewter plates and the lead used in the pottery glaze.  Sleeping was done usually in a sitting position because of the respiratory problems.  Folks living outside lived much longer — better air, and utensils usually of wood (treen ware).  I asked about a candle stand that had massive pegs to hold the candles – that struck my curiosity, but the guide explained how the stand was in the shape of a cross, and on 45 degree angles to the top are 12 candles – for the 12 Apostles.  No picture taking, but I made a sketch when I got back to the car along with these notes.  Oh, just so much to learn.

View from the front of Muckross House

I then toured the Muckross House, again a fascinating story.  The furnishings are as they were from the 1860s.  In fact, 6 years were spent in redecorating the house and grounds for Queen Victoria’s three day visit in 1861.  From my reading, once I parked I got my ticket for the tour, and then had 40 minutes to walk the grounds and grab a sandwich (finally a light meal).  It was about 3 PM when I was off again on the road – roads that became smaller again and intriguing with small villages.   From my readings I wanted to stop at Macroom, an unspoilt Market Town.  The castle at the entrance was once owned by William Penn’s father, and suffered its 5th fire when the British Army abandoned and burned it in 1920 prior to Ireland’s independence in 1922.  I spent some time walking around and should have taken pictures of the butcher shop and fish market – so inviting looking, both.

Ruined Castle at Macroom, Ireland

I arrived at my B&B in Kinsale at 6:15, and once I settled in I went downtown.  Kinsale – wow, talk about an old village dripping with charm and history.  Steeped in nautical history, and an important town in history (sadly most Americans don’t know their own history let along any history outside USA borders) I just can’t wait until tomorrow’s visits.  I saw a number of groups (one all students) around the Tourist Information office, but was confused because the various walking tours are during the day.  I moved up along one group of adults and started listening.  As they started walking I asked someone who seemed in charge if this was a private group.  He said it was a university sponsored tour for a group from France, Portugal and Spain in for a conference, and “few of them know each other, so please follow along.”  I did, it was informative, and I have added the Rick Steves recommended tour to my list for tomorrow.  I then had dinner (beef stew – finally a small portion) and came back to work on this post, but often hit some wrong keys and deleted, so it occupied a tad more time than it should have.  At any rate, off to plan more for tomorrow, I am so excited about Kinsale, but in retrospect each of my favorite spots (Cashel, Dingle, and now Kinsale) have been grand for different reasons.  Good night, RAY

Pubs, Main Street, Dingle

I allowed a day for the 30 mile drive around the Dingle Peninsula, and absolutely enjoyed the 8 1/2 hours I took taking in the sites – I plan well.  Out of 73 images I took today, I am uploading 8 with another browser while I am typing here.  With most I am trying to be artistic for myself, will share a few now, and some broader “travel shots.”  Of the many stops I made, I most enjoyed a small grouping of buildings that were abandoned during the famine, but subsequently utilized, and essentially original.  Very few are left.  The interior is typical 19th century tenant farmer, but in the 1900 lean-to addition in the rear there were fantastic story boards detailing the famine, poor-laws at the time, tenant/landlord relationships, the evictions, corn-laws, etc.  At the reception booth they had a book on the famine in Ireland and in West Kerry specifically which I got hoping it would have the same information.  Actually this self published book is very scholarly, and greatly expands the story board details, and probably is just what I want to learn more about this tragic time and its affects (at least as a start).

I first found (off the main road, and not mentioned in Rick Steves guide, but a brochure I found) the remains of a Norman Tower House of the 15th century that was destroyed in the Cromwellian wars of 1641.  Next came the Dunbeg Fort which dates to 500 BC – hanging on a cliff ready to fall into the sea (parts have).  From there I walked to the Famine Cottage where I spent a great deal of time.  My next stop was a group of stone beehive huts clustered within a circular wall.  On the way to Dunquin there were several “scenic” stops I made, and approaching this scattered village there were some additional abandoned “Famine Houses.”  In this village is a Heritage site Museum for the Blasket Islands from which the last remaining residents were removed in 1953.  The museum was fascinating, and of interest are the many Irish writers who are from the island (e.g. TWENTY YEARS A GROWING by Maurice O’Sullivan).  I had a late lunch there, and knowing that RYAN’S DAUGHTER was filmed in the area I asked the receptionist for the spot where the director had built the movie’s stone village.  She directed me up the hill, but explained that the villagers could not decide who would “own” the buildings the director wanted to give them at the conclusion of shooting – so in disgust he torn them down.  Close to the cliffs, however, I found the remains of the schoolhouse where Robert Mitchum taught in the movie (exterior scenes were shot here) .  In brief, my final major stops were the Gallarus Oratory and the Kilmalkedar Church.

The ruined church of Kilmalkedar was the Norman center of worship for the far end of the peninsula. Built in the 12th century it is surrounded by a graveyard with some graves dating to the early Christianity period.  I took many photos here, and spent some reflective time enjoying the site (the Tuesday, 3 years ago today)

When I got back into the village I parked and took many images there (couple shared now), and came back to my B&B to upload images and type.  I had a late lunch, and considering the size of portions in Ireland would like to skip dinner, but I will head over to a pub by 9 PM so that I can maybe catch some Irish music tonight.  Then it is back to post this (unless pictures are done uploading sooner) and work on tomorrow’s final plans as I head to Kinsale.

Bottom line — Dingle Peninsula is not to be missed.  All for now, but I do have more notes for myself.

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