was Calvin Coolidge, the 30th President of the United States in Plymouth Notch, Vermont. In following my travels, by now you know that Plymouth Notch is one of my favorite drives, just but an hour and a century away.
Yesterday I called the Saint Gaudens National Historic Site (another favorite escape) to see if there were any special events planned for the day. Finding none, I closed out the day reading about Ethan Allen, but with nothing planned for the 4th other than playing with all the “new” “old” books I had just purchased. But while mowing the yard commencing at 8:10 this morning I heard a faint whisper, “Me, Me, it is my turn.” I recognized BLACK BEAUTY’S seductive cooing. And then it struck me – Plymouth Notch, and I remembered reading of the yearly old-fashion celebration on the 4th complete with marching to the President’s grave and chicken barbeque. Finish yard, shower, feed Cricket, quick confirmation of the events on the website, and off we roared.
I am backing to park on a grassy spot at The Calvin Coolidge Homestead District which is a National Historic Landmark that is administered by the State of Vermont with an active supporting Calvin Coolidge Memorial Foundation — and what do I hear but, “Hey, Ray!” My neighbors Dave and Lil are entering the parking field in their modern convertible followed by friends Bob and Kerry, also with their top down (but no fun, both cars with roll up windows, and air conditioners on – yes with tops down – go figure). I joined them, and was thrilled to be able to share a special outing and a meal with friends.
The Center of Plymouth Notch, VT.
It was not packed, but still more than the handful of folks I usually see in this special place. At noon the Vermont National Guard led the march from the village green to the cemetery.
The crowd gathers for the march to the cemetery.
The graveside ceremony included a reading of one of Coolidge’s speeches by members of the foundation and the great grandchildren of the President. Laying of a wreath presented by the White House followed at the President’s gravesite. The assembled crowd then traversed the short distance back to town, and we got in line for the Barbecue at the Wilder House. Even if a barbecue is not in the offing, under the trees in “downtown” Plymouth Notch is the place to spread a blanket, open a book and picnic basket, and enjoy. The images and video below give you a flavor of the day. When I departed I explored some favorite backroads, and picked up some new ones, “filling in the spaces on the map” as Gary and I are fond of saying. And, I stopped to enjoy the Vermont Country Store on the trek homewards.
HAPPY 4th of JULY; and, RAY RECOMMENDS you plan an outing to Calvin Coolidge’s Plymouth Notch.
The parade to the cemetery with members of the Vermont National Guard begins.
If you have ever wondered what occupies some of my time, I (along with other Walpole Player’s friends) spent a day filming for Gail Golec (a “player” creative genius) recently for her entry in this year’s NO FILM FILM FESTIVAL competition. Last year she won and hopefully will again this year.
The No Film Film Festival is an international contest that challenges start up filmmakers to produce a short digital film, this year based on a popular 1980’s movie. The film had to be completed in just one week’s time. This year eighteen teams from across the country answered the call with only fifteen teams surviving the exhaustive task.
On Saturday, June 29th, the films premiered on the largest screen in southern Vermont at the world renowned Bellows Falls Opera House. We had over 40 friends in the audience, and today Gail’s film was made public. I am thrilled to share it here, and you may recognize me. Fortunately I was able to remember (for two minutes) what Gail told me to do each time. Enjoy, and share.
For about six months I have wanted to start another column in THE WALPOLE CLARION sharing SHUNPIKING WITH RAY experiences close to home with recommendations for day trips. The best way to get something done is to begin, so yesterday I wrote my first CLARION Shunpiking piece, but then realized I should expand it a tad and share it here too. I have a category “Day Trip Ideas” which I have yet to develop. I need to start listing things there, add links, and then my experiences. So much to do, yea!!! So, here is my introductory paragraph for my CLARION article followed by what I wrote, but expanded for you here:
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For a number of years I have shared my travel experiences in my on-line travel “blog” SHUNPIKING WITH RAY. In my quest to learn from others, I have often found locals are unaware of or have not visited historical, educational or fun attractions nearby. Here I hope to tell you of area treasures, encouraging you to explore and enjoy. For a start, let’s begin next door in Alstead.
This year is Alstead, New Hampshire’s 250th anniversary, and I recently read that there would be a town-wide tour of homes, historic sites, churches, the museum, and Chase’s Mill on June 22nd. I had to see the mill at a minimum so mid-week picked up my souvenir booklet ($5) that includes maps and tour details to prepare myself for Saturday’s touring. Chance of rain was 30% but BLUE BELLE reminded me that we just had to stay in the other 70% of the area, and in fact all was fine (her top has not been up in over 20 years). We cruised over March Hill Road to pickup Pratt Road to Alstead Center to eventually traverse Camp Brook Road to Mill Hollow prior to heading back down Forest Road (Rt. 123) to Alstead Village or Paper Mill Village. BLUE BELLE enjoys kicking stones on dirt roads, and if you don’t you are missing something, or need a “sports car.” I had so much fun, and learned so much I will have to write a complete travel “blog” post, particularly to mention all the gracious folks I met along the way on my five hour tour fifteen minutes from home.
Entering quiet Alstead Center is stepping back into the 19th century without the assistance of imagination. This is the original settlement of Alstead, and about one-third of the
Walls and ceiling with embossed tin (hard to see here)
original buildings remain. I first gazed on the fascinating all decorative tin interior (circa 1905 – and worth the visit) of the First Congregational Church (third church on this site) where I was encouraged by my hostess to visit her daughter’s Amos Shepard Tavern B&B across the way. Ann and Tim painstakingly spent over three years restoring and accentuating the architectural eye-candy within the building’s walls and now operate it as a B&B. I have now decided I do not need to travel hours for a grand B&B experience, I will soon just go
Circa 1790 GENERAL AMOS SHEPARD BED & BREAKFAST
over the hills for a night – actually two centuries – away. Next it was down scenic and dirt, Camp Brook Road for Chase’s Mill at the foot of Lake Warren. Since 5th grade, when I made a waterwheel for a science fair project, I have had an affinity for waterwheels and old mills. And, when Ray Boas, Bookseller was in New Preston, Connecticut, the shop was in an old cider mill with my office on top of the waterfall.
CHASE’S MILL
Dan greeted me outside the mill, and then I was fortunate to have Margaret Chase tour me through all three levels. Dating from 1917, this is the third mill built on this foundation. Her Dad, Heman Chase, operated a woodshop here giving lessons to area children in the 1960s and 70s using water powered equipment which is still extant and operational. The flood of October, 2005 did knock out part of the metal culvert to the turbine, but otherwise the mill has been untouched for decades. The newly organized Mill Hollow Heritage Association is endeavoring to restore the mill and
Margaret Chase showing me the “sophisticated” mechanisms to run the planner on the floor above
create a working museum, and “voting with my dollars” I am now a “friend” of the organization.
A stop at the 2nd Congregational Church in East Alstead was next where I was told of the architectural changes over the years; such as creating a full second floor sanctuary which originally was an open balcony with pews. Next I drove around many of the other sites before parking at the Vilas Pool. How many times have you passed on Rt. 123A, but not toured the pool’s grounds? A gift to the town from Charles N. Vilas, Vilas dammed the Cold River to create the facility which opened in 1926 complete with swan boats similar to those used on the Boston Commons. The Vilas Pool, its buildings and grounds are a gem of a well-kept secret. Popularity waned I understand, but nostalgia is bringing it back. New caretakers have done a wonderful job
Looking out at Vilas Pool
making it so inviting under the tall pines. Researching last night I found the Facebook page for the Pool (with 507 members), and “Liked” it so I would know what is happening. Perfect place for an afternoon picnic and book or two, cannot wait. Well, it is time for you to visit too, and July 13 will be a special day there, and I understand that the Carillion (built in 1930 with twelve bells and at the time the second largest in New England) will be played for the first time in many, many years.
My final planned stop in Alstead Village itself was at the former Universalist Church, now the Alstead Historical Society. Bruce Bellows spent a great deal of time with me telling me about the renovations to the building acquired by the town in 1971, and sharing the collections. I particularly enjoyed the “upstairs” which was like visiting a well-preserved attic. I know I was born in the wrong century.
Inside the Inn – main carrying beam (left) is 38 feet long
Water Turbine in lower level – note broken water piping
Mill models made by Heman Chase
Main Shop at Chase’s Mill, note belt driven equipment
Foot bridge entrance over the dam to Vilas Pool
Carillon – Vilas Pool
Gazebo under the pines – Vilas Pool
“The Attic” Alstead Historical Society
The “Sestercentennial Town-wide Tour” will be held again on August 3rd and September 21st, with “Vilas Pool Day” on July 13th.
RAY RECOMMENDS:
1. You buy a copy of the Alstead, NH 250th Anniversary Booklet and take the tour.
2. You plan an outing at the Vilas Pool
3. You become a member of the Mill Hollow Heritage Association ( millhollowheritageassoc@gmail.com ) to assist in preserving Chase’s Mill
Well, I left the Mountain View Grand in Whitefield, NH at 10:30 this morning with no plans, no intentions of telling you more about this excursion, and here I want to share more.
I traveled down Route 142 from Bethlehem towards Franconia not having been on that route before, and all of a sudden on a side road saw with the street name sign “Scenic Road” – “Ray can handle that,” I said to self, and quickly did a u-turn. Fantastic views, seen by few I am sure, and this one field of Lupines – now in bloom, is so serene.
Back Road Lupines
Once in Franconia I headed towards Sugar Hill, a favorite spot, but at the corner for the turn up the hill to Sugar Hill is the site of an Iron Furnace which sadly I had never stopped at. Well, following my recent quick time at the Saugus Iron Works I had to stop, and did. Great history and well interpreted. Here is a gallery of views that you may wish to peruse(remember to click on an image for a slide show) .
Arriving in Sugar Hill, I stopped at the Sugar Hill Sampler, an institution for this area that I have always visited. And, on this visit I purchased some Christmas decorations that I am thrilled about and two candle holders in their “Lost and Found” antique department that are “used” and were too cheap having come originally from a NH League of Artisans show and are made of carved granite? As I am “keyboarding” music is playing, and candles romantically burning in them, along with “candle followers” that I got. Again, I need nothing, but if something “grabs me” it is mine.
Lupines across from the Sugar Hill Sampler towards Canon Mountain
By now you should realize that I am “hooked” on classic train travel – overnight with dining. Well, I just happened to see their sign as I was driving on Route 112 in North Woodstock after exiting the HOBO RAILROAD (closed until 22 June – but seemed “hokey” – and for kids) and I turned in and parked. The station office and gift shop was open but no one was there. Soon a gentleman came in and graciously greeted me and began answering my questions. Soon his wife, Leslie, came in and took over. In no time at all she enthusiastically toured me through their collection of train cars explaining where they were purchased and the restorations/renovations they had undertaken. Obviously a true “labor of love.” Their dinner excursions of two plus hours run on the same tracks as the Hobo Railroad, and the “Hobo” locomotive pulls their consists – but at the same time, the Hobo Railroad has no food facilities, so on their excursions they stop and get vittles from Leslie – “too cool.”
Leslie had no problems with me taking some images, and here they are:
Dining Car experience.
Berths in a sleeper car.
View in one of their sleeper cars.
Kitchen Car
I cannot believe how nice she was, and treated me when I obviously was just passing through at the moment. My dear Cathy and I always said that we can “vote with our dollars” so, hey friends, lets plan an evening (and maybe an overnight) to experience dining by rail without having to book a long distance train trip.
That is it until I “hit the road” again, and it could be in days, who knows? Thanks, as always, yours, RAY
Last evening I sent Leslie an email thanking her for her hospitality, and this morning she sent this nice reply.
Howdy Ray,
It was a pleasure meeting you yesterday and taking you on a tour. I can always tell a true rail enthusiast and am glad to share our little slice of history with those of like mind. We do hope to see you here sometime in the future (maybe with a group of friends) to enjoy what we are so proud of here at the Cafe Lafayette Dinner Train.
BTW (By the Way), before I forget to tell you, the VIA RAIL unions settled their strike, so I did not have to bail-out of Halifax early — BUT, I am glad that I did with the new schedule I developed.
After spending Saturday afternoon on the porch at the Mountain View Grand with my new best friends, and then having dinner, I am now in front of a fire in one of the libraries (natch) typing (or is it now keyboarding?) away.
In 7th grade I found in an antique shop (and bought – even way back then I was in the antique shops) a stereoview of old Peppersass on the Mount Washington Cog Railway. I was fascinated by it, as was Peter Hall who traded me something for half of it. In 1963, while camping in New
BELZEBUTH in 1962 in West Cornwall, CT
Hampshire in BELZEBUTH, my 1929 Model A Ford Roadster, I drove to the base station of the Mount Washington Cog Railway, but probably did not have the money to take the train up. Cathy and I following a stay at the Eagle Mountain House in Jackson, NH, before we moved to NH, took the “stage” up the roadway to the top of Mount Washington. An English couple we met at the Inn joined us, and later stayed with us during their holiday. BUT, I had never been on the Cog Railway — UNTIL TODAY.
What I first saw upon arriving at 7:30 AM
This ride has been “on my list” and when I readjusted my schedule I realized that this was the perfect opportunity instead of making a separate trip up. But about ten years ago they began replacing the steam locomotives with biodiesel ones much to my dismay. Now, the only scheduled steam run is at 8:15 AM (yes, in the morning Betty), but you are asked to arrive at 7:30. If you are going to do something – DO IT RIGHT !!! So, yes, I planned to get up at 6:30 (was awake at 3:30 AM anyway) to be on the road at 7 AM to arrive in time for this adventure 50 years in the waiting. Some FAST FACTS: The steam trip takes an hour each way – biodiesel 38 minutes. The greatest grade is about 35% which means that there is a 16 foot difference in elevation from one end of the passenger coach to the other end. We all had to try standing up, and what a tilt! So much more, but, of course, I have and have read the book RAILWAY TO THE MOON, and other histories of this tourist attraction completed and operating since 1869. Ties in with my interest in summer vacations and tourism.
I am going to give you a gallery of views, which if you wish to click on an image will open a slide show.
Mount Washington Hotel from top of Mount Washington
This is the TIP TOP HOUSE – the only remaining original structure, now restored by the State of New Hampshire to its original appearance.
And, here are a couple of videos.
I then headed to revisit the Mount Washington Hotel where Cathy and I enjoyed several stays. Now an Omni Hotel, it was very, very busy – nice to see success, but over powering compared to the laid-back I enjoy. When Cathy and I were last there (mid-week) we were the only guests in the dining room with full-orchestra and five servers.
Cathy and I enjoyed glasses of wine at this spot looking at Mt. Washington in about 2000.
I spent from about 3PM on with Greg and Debbie (cops from Massachusetts) on the porch — what a “hoot.” Greg worked at the Inn here in the late 1960s – fifth generation to work at this Inn. Oh the stories. Hope to keep in touch.
Usually I get to attend a wedding a couple of times of month at home in front of my house, and probably missed one there today. But, from my spot on the porch here I was not disappointed.
Saturday wedding at the Mountain View Grand.
And now it is early Sunday morning on the porch with coffee. I have no real plans for today. Would love to go to Clark’s Trading Post again (Cathy and I had a great time there), but have not yet been to Polar Caves. So, who knows??? I can do whatever I feel like doing, so off I will go within a couple hours. Thank you so much for traveling with me, yours, RAY
RAY RECOMMENDS: “It is alright to do nothing!” The saying inside the wrapper of the first Dove chocolate I opened after we lost Cathy. A candy she enjoyed, and I still enjoy. That was the only time I have received this message.
Some days are strictly play days, others (like yesterday) are traveling days, and days like today that combine moving to another spot but playing along the way I call “repositioning” days.
It was the absolute perfect thing to do staying at the Best Western Plus at the Montreal airport last night, and it was a very nice experience. They were exceedingly helpful, room exceptionally nice, had a wonderful dinner at the bar, and the free breakfast was not the typical buffet but a sit down with selections that rivaled what I get at the Red Lion Inn. And it ended up I was a two minute walk from an express bus station that for $3 got me to the Metro where I transferred (free) to get to my car. May I recommend you do the same someday – park where I did, stay where I did, and use Montreal’s public transportation to full advantage. Once retrieving my car I headed to Canada Expressway 10.
RAY RECOMMENDS – LESSONS – SUGGESTIONS – Etc.
If staying at the airport in Montreal book a room at the Best Western Plus or Marriott where,
You can walk to a bus terminal to catch an express bus for $3 and connect to the Metro to then
Travel by Metro to Universite-de-Sherbrooke where you can park and pay,
$7.25 a day longterm — my bill for 5 days was $36.25 — try to beat that in any city
Carry two credit cards with you — when the machine at the parking lot will not read your primary card, you have a backup. I always carried only one, but in October at a restaurant in London David’s card was rejected. He had another. Later that night on investigating he found that the card company fearing fraud put a stop on his card. The night before he hosted a party for a convention and paid the bill (over $5,000) on his card. Once he said it was a legitimate charge all was well. I learned my lesson well that night.
Sign-up for SKYPE and install it on all your computers and mobile devices. Costs 2 cents a minute world-wide, but toll-free numbers still cost nothing (used it often this trip for making arrangements)
WI-FI for free now can be found almost anywhere, handy for SKYPE when,
You think your credit card may have a stop on it because an hour after you made a charge by SKYPE for a ticket in New Hampshire, you check out of your hotel in Montreal causing the problem at the parking machine.
Always stop at Tourist Information centers to gather information helpful for Shunpiking, and use the free WI-FI to SKYPE your credit card company in case their computer feared fraud on your card. Ends up it was probably only a momentary time-out on a computer connection to the parking lot machine.
When at a Tourist information center ask for the good area maps that are hidden away because they are good and costly to make. I got a fantastic EASTERN TOWNSHIPS map with “Tours and Scenic Routes – Wine Routes, Summit Drive – Township Trails”
Never be in a rush, stop look and study the map and plan a new route. And,
Have a collection of I-Toys with you. I always laughed at the kids having an average of 2.5 amongst them on our trips to Italy, but I now carry four. IPhone (in the states), IPOD great for out of country – my watch, and to catch WI-FI, my IPAD comes in handy for a quick check or in a restaurant and now for saving maps, and I love my MacBookAir — so much easier to travel with than the PC, and so light with a long battery time. So, RAY RECOMMENDS – take the plunge and collect I-Toys.
Once I left the Tourist Information center instead of heading to pick up the major Route 55 to head south to Interstate 91 I opted to take Exit 90 (number based upon the mileage marker) toward Lac-Brome and Knowlton on Route 243. Sorry, you probably don’t have this map to follow my route. Well, I cannot wait to get back. Some of the most beautiful scenery I have seen and most pristine properties. And then I got to my first Chemin Des Cantons – Knowlton, where I strolled around. Intriguing looking restaurants everywhere, shops, and money dripping. Here is a gallery of views.
You can click on any image to start a slide show
Continuing out of town on 243 I wanted to head over to Lac Mempphremagog to head south towards a remote border crossing (you know I love them). Well, my under the tourist center counter map had a left turn onto Ch. de Glen which took me through Bolton-Centre. It turned into dirt – love it – where is BLACK BEAUTY or BLUE BELLE when you want them – well they will return. I took a right on Ch. Cooledge continuing south through Knowlton Landing, Mansonville, Highwater (maybe three houses there) and over the hill to the border crossing. After a friendly visit with the lonely and lovely border guard I picked up US 105 to Newport to (sorry) get onto Interstate 91. I had so many options to get to my destination tonight, but early on decided that time would determine which route to take. Would you believe I know most of the ways to get around even up here near the border?
I arrived and settled in at the Mountain View Grand Hotel in Whitefield, NH about 4:30, and have been on the front porch since about 5 typing and sharing with you. So now to post this short one (for a change) giving you a break from yesterday’s tome. BUT, come back tomorrow for something special. Something I have wanted to do since I first saw it 50 years ago is what I bought a ticket for this morning. But to do it right I have to be on the road at 7AM. You will not want to miss the pictures and video.
And now I am writing this on Thursday, 13 June, at the Halifax airport awaiting a flight. Why you ask? I got an email on my IPod while having dinner last night in Peggy’s Cove (yes, free WI-FI does appear everywhere), that one of VIA RAIL CANADA’s unions may go on strike before my scheduled departure from Halifax thus affecting my sleeper travel accommodations. I could take a chance, or cancel for an immediate full refund without penalty. Not wanting to get stuck in Halifax (at my own expense – stuck in Zurich was caused by and hosted by SwissAir) I debated and checked options. While on the phone with WestJet I finally just bought an air ticket back to Montreal (via Toronto) for Thursday. VIA RAIL said that once the strike started no one would answer the phone to take my cancellation, so that pushed my decision to not lose the full refund without penalty.
I also fired off an email to the Mountain View Grand Hotel in Whitefield, NH to see if I could come in Friday or Saturday instead of my special deal reservation on Sunday. WOW – they responded late at night and said to come on in on Friday and I could stay Saturday too. So a fantastic new plan. Now back to the past two days.
This is where over a million people entered Canada from 1928 to the early 60s, as I recall, and also troops departed for and returned from WWII. I spent two hours there. The excellent 3-D effect film portrays the multitude of reasons people left their homes and came to Canada. Next I followed a guide around as he discussed the exhibits and added anecdotes. He arrived himself through Pier 21 in the mid 50s and even showed us his papers. FAST FACT — The Kellogg’s Company, in the hopes to “hook” the new arrivals here and Ellis Island provided free Corn Flakes for nourishment. Little did they know that in Europe corn was not eaten but fed to pigs and other animals. The immigrants were insulted, and the children tossed the boxes onto the floor.
From there I walked along the waterfront which is wonderful having
HALIFAX TOWN CLOCK
undergone renovations since the late 1990s for tourism and resident enjoyment both. I had lunch on the Pier and then went to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic AND Click on this link for a virtual tour. To my surprise I found it was open Tuesday nights and FREE from 5:30 to 8, so off I went on foot to further explore the city and its architecture. When I was here in October I enjoyed touring the Citadel, but now I walked the outside and the Town Clock.
A short rest for my feet and newly repaired left foot followed, and back to the Maritime Museum, spending almost the full 2 1/2 hours, which is not enough time to do it properly. I focused on the exhibit on Convoys which were always assembled at Halifax as such a secure port and close to the grand circle route to save time to Europe, then I explored in detail the Halifax Explosion of 1916 with a loss of over 2,000 lives, including the interesting film. Upstairs I took in a few more history videos and was thrilled to see the, albeit small, Titanic exhibit because there are actual artifacts on display including a complete original deck chair.
RAY on the TITANIC DECK CHAIR, well a reproduction.
Halifax was the closest port to the sinking, and recovery operations brought back hundreds of bodies, most of which were ultimately buried there. As was the custom with wrecks, sailors helping would keep items found in the sea, and since the recovery boats came from here, the items
TITANIC CARVED WOOD RECOVERED FROM THE SEA
ended up in Halifax. I have now completed a “Titanic circle” having been to the docks where built, Southampton where she sailed from, Queenstown (Cobh) the last port she left, and I was within 25 miles of her final resting site – impressive, Yes? There was to be a lecture at 7:30 on ship surgeons, and finally I realized it was in another gallery on The Age of Sail that I had totally missed. What an animated and informative speaker.
OUR SURGEON FOR THE EVENING LECTURE
FAST FACTS: Edinburgh at this time produced the most and best surgeons; canon balls did not usually kill people, but when they hit the sides of a ship the wood splintered and flew causing death; most combat was by shooting rifles, and the lead balls would splatter flat when hitting bone. There were large probes to find the lead, but the most effective way was to insert a finger in the wound to feel the lead and try to extract it. The Edinburgh surgeons were the best because they could amputate an arm in 2 minutes and a leg in 3. And this gent went on an on until the museum closed much to our dismay.
Tuesday turned overcast with sprinkles, but on Wednesday I awoke to heavier off and on rain. But still I picked up my car at 9 and headed off for Lunenberg (RAY RECOMMENDS: always best to go to the furthest point and work your way back). I took the newer “expressway” out through more pines and birches, and then the back roads to the popular Lunenberg, a UNESCO site. The town received this designation as providing the best elements of the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries, and as the best example of a British Colonial Settlement in North America with with 200 years of unchanged architectural styles. The iconic view across the bay of gayly painted buildings was shrouded in fog and the shops not of great interest to me. A lovely, and probably extremely busy and crowded, summer boating resort, it was deserted and I was about to leave, but then said, “Ray, you might as well take a look at the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic . Learning about fish not high on my list, but was I ever wrong and had so much fun in my almost four hours there (including seafood wrap for lunch in the restaurant overlooking the water).
Just got an email at 2:17 from WestJet that my flight is delayed — thus I will miss my connecting flight from Toronto to Montreal — now what?? Will let you know, so back to my writing.
Three flours of exhibits, and ships outside, but I was intrigued by the next two films in the theater, so started there. The first made in 1960 was a story of a boy who stowed away on his Dad’s schooner to go Cod fishing. Here in detail I saw how up to the 1960s (as I later learned when trawling became more prevalent) a couple dozen dories would be
SALTED COD
launched with 2 men in each to cast lines with 2,000 baited hooks. Once brought aboard work continued chopping heads, gutting the fish, saving the liver for Cod Liver Oil, and essentially opening the Cod into a fillet to be salted and stored below. Salted Cod can last indefinitely when properly dried and was an early staple, not just for those on sea voyages. When I later was outside on the Schooner, the guide there further reinforced what I had learned. The next film was a TV documentary on Rumrunning from the Canadian point of view. Many of the fisherman became smugglers since it was more lucrative, and built special boats. There is a French island off Newfoundland which became a pivotal staging point, and even Al Capone visited there to observe the operation. Will have to find this film, but I have already ordered the book BOTH SIDES OF THE LAW by a former rumrunner who became the respected Police Chief of Lunenberg. All the exhibits were very well done, especially the one on the history of fishing in the Outer Banks there.
Outside I toured a 1962 trawler and the 1938 restored schooner where the docent was very helpful. Needing to know everything, dumb me asked why the wheel (at the stern) was tilted backwards mounted on a
Helmsman’s view on the Schooner (note dory usually stacked 6 high)
box assuming the helmsman had to stand in front of the wheel. “How can he see where to steer I asked?” The gentleman chuckled, “the helmsman stands to the side and leans on the housing for extra strength. The worm gear shaft is short and at a tilt to the rudder so there is less momentum and friction to overcome. Also standing to the side and rear of the tilted wheel saves his legs from getting hit.” So now you also know why the statues of helmsman always have him fighting the wheel from the rear and side!!!
Typical Dory Equipped for Codding
Further dumbness, but a need to know everything, caused me to ask about the shape of the scallops shells in the Tidal Touch Tank. “Why the round shape of what we eat as compared to the shape of the shell?” I queried. “What we eat is just the dense muscle that opens and closes the shell. The heart and other organs surround it in the shell,” the young lady told me. The fellow on the schooner later also told me how the scallops are harvested, and husked at sea.
LUNENBERG Bandstand.
Not wanting to really leave the museum, I did and toured the streets some more looking at the architecture before I went back to the old Route 3 to follow the coast line (get out your maps) until I met Route 333 down to popular spot – Peggy’s Cove. I went through Mahone Bay, Chester, Hubbards, French Village — all with glorious fishing pasts and boat resort lives at the present.
Along the way on Route 333 I spotted this memorial to the lost Swissair Flight 111 that went down off the coast in 1998.
About 6PM I arrived at Peggy’s Cove — a small dot, but a few homes. Obviously because of the parking lot for buses (fortunately empty) this could be a horrific place to try to enjoy with crowds. Thus you see my rare image of the most photographed lighthouse in the world — rare because there are no people in it!
Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse
I had dinner at the gift shop/restaurant at the lighthouse, visited the dock, and headed back to my Inn in Halifax. Peggy’s Cove is a must to visit, just hope you are alone.
Dock at Peggy’s Cove
Then as noted, I spent an hour on Skype working on my new exit plan which went into execution this morning. I had plenty of extra time at the airport and then the flight was delayed making it obvious I would miss my connecting flight to Montreal. But Ray does not worry, except I had not worked out what to do Thursday for sleeping and shunpiking on Friday. Departing about an hour late I settled in to nap on the plane (awoke at 4AM today – in my short sleeping mode) – and then it struck me. “I have no place to stay, and by the time I get rebooked to Montreal and get my car and find a place it could be 10 or 11 PM, and I have not even had time to roughly plan Friday. Where are there places to stay easily found — AT AN AIRPORT! In Toronto WestJet had rebooked me, but my new flight was already boarding, out comes the laptop, finally get connected, fast googling, good rate with no hassle ($109.99 CAD) and a shuttle bus away. Fast typing, credit card out, get confirmation number, and get up to be the last person in line to board. Now, RAY is one of the smartest, quickest thinkers around who can be decisive in a crunch – with excellent results. I got into my Montreal room at 8:30, had dinner in the hotel, and can post this blog, and plan tomorrow’s adventures on the way to the Mountain View Grand. And, I am near a bus line the receptionist told me and can get that bus and transfer to the Metro for $3 total instead of the Airport Bus for $9 and then the Metro. Of course, with shunpiking tentative plans are made to be broken, but now to start that planning at 11PM. Thanks for listening, more to come once I am refreshed and off again tomorrow. As always, yours, RAY
BOTTOM LINE – RAY RECOMMENDS: Use your debit card every few months, if only to check your account balance. I have had a debit card for five years, but only use it at overseas ATMs to acquire Pounds, Euros, or Canadian Dollars. Everything has been fine (well, one time in Canada my bank’s computer was not talking out of country) until now. As usual I called my bank before leaving to say I would be using the card out of country, “that will be fine, Ray,” but for the past 3 days my attempts to get Canadian Dollars has only gained a computer response of “Denied by Your Bank.” Today when again rejected I Skyped my bank only to find that they decided my card had not been used so they inactivated it without telling me. “Right, last time I needed it was in London for Pounds in October.” “Well I was told, we can reactivate in but at least check your balance every three months.” Think I will do that every 6-8 weeks, but still when advising I will be using it out of country I will ask the question, “did you deactivate me again?”
Sunday, 9 June, and relaxing in the Via Rail Canada’s Montreal Lounge awaiting boarding time for the overnight train, The Ocean, heading to Halifax. The trip is 1346 kilometers (836 miles) through rural communities of the Lower Saint Lawrence down the Matapedia Valley to Chaleur Bay crossing the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. The train leaves Montréal just as the sun sets over the fertile farmlands carpeting the southern shores of the St. Lawrence River. In 2011 I travelled by business class rail from Montreal to Toronto to ride The Canadian to Vancouver (click here to see that group of posts), so once I arrive in Halifax I will have been coast to coast in Canada by train.
GARE CENTRALE – MONTREAL
GARE CENTRALE – MONTREAL
My trip to Montreal was flawless, and executed better than last time. For the last train journey I thought I was smart leaving my car in Burlington and catching the bus to Montreal. It was easy, but a hassle at the border unloading and loading the entire bus of passengers and bags both coming and going. Plus I was traveling on Greyhound time, and not Ray time. The Ocean is an evening train, so having the entire day to travel the roughly four hours to Montreal, I decided to drive all the way, but where to park? Near the train station was $20 plus a day, but after some continued Googling I found parking at the end of the Metro Yellow Line at Longueuil – Universite de Sherbrooke for $7.25 a day. A short walk to the Metro, a $3 ticket and 15 minutes later I was in the Gare Centrale with plenty of time to spare. Having studied maps on-line, printed out directions, and screen saved maps to my IPad it was so easy (and familiar) and I highly recommend this way for anyone coming to Montreal and wanting an easy and inexpensive way to leave your car while you play without it.
It is hard to really share an overnight train experience in words and photos, so my plan is to document the next 24 hours in video and post those with some commentary. My camera is ready with a large SD card, and I found a new program for my MacBook Air (free) to easily and quickly convert my video to MP4s for quick and easy uploading. An hour to boarding — so here goes.
Now I am back writing, Monday, 10 June, comfortably settled in the observation dome of the “Park Car” at the end of the train. Last evening I converted some videos and learned more about my MacBook before enjoying a comfortable lulling and swaying night.
Once on board the train I started by documenting my room. First are two videos of my room
The sleeper cars on this train were all built with compartments for two (fold down upper berth, and the rear of the seats folds down as a bed) with bathrooms (very ingenious – it only took me 16 hours to figure out how the sink stopper opened) and storage that you see in the video. The Canadian going west consists of 1950s era Budd Cars which have the different sleeping accommodation configurations including the tight (yet enjoyable) roomette that I had. And, you may recall my sink that folded into the wall draining onto the tracks, the shower (down the passageway, or maybe in the next car) drained directly onto the tracks as I watched, and the cleverly placed toilet (do not flush while standing in station sign still in place) which had been modified for sewage containment. Too much fun!!! Thus I have now had two totally different experiences.
Prior to settling down in the observation dome for our departure I made a quick run to see the other cars which included two service cars for snacks and drinks, the dining car, and at the end the Park Car with observation dome. The front of the train had a few coach cars which I did not see.
Dining Car on THE OCEAN
Then it was time to depart
Inside the PARK CAR from the stairs leading to the OBSERVATION DOME
Off we go !!!
Salmon for dinner
NOTICE BELOW THAT MONTREAL TO HALIFAX IS NOT A STRAIGHTWEST-EAST LINE
GOOD MORNING FROM ACROSS THE SAINT LAWRENCE RIVER 5:15 AM
and
Approaching 10:30 (Atlantic Time) and today’s scenery has gone from river to bay, to forests to wetlands complete with large beaver lodges, and now back to remote forest (fir and birch – trees not too tall – reminding me much of scrub brush/trees in the New Jersey Pine Barrens – sans Jersey Devil)
And then about 2PM (Atlantic Time) we had to stop longer than usual at Moncton, N.B. for a freight to pass by. Remember freights have the right of way. We should have met this train further down the track, but we are running late. But, it gave me a chance to duck out and get some quick shots.
PARK CAR from the Rear.
Remember my nighttime “Streamliner Visions” while on THE CANADIAN?
Well, I have arrived in Halifax, checked in my Inn, had dinner, and it is time to post. I will keep you up to date, as always, yours, RAY
BOTTOM LINE — RAY RECOMMENDS: Overnight (multiple is better) train travel is something to be experienced, but unless you have to take THE OCEAN to complete “coast to coast Canada by train” take a more scenic and breathtaking route. Once the track departs the Saint Lawrence the rails run through scenery that is “nothing to write home about.”
Remember, I write about my experiences to reinforce what I have learned, and remind me of what I have seen, but I love to share too, and hope you learn from my experiences and see something new.
Currently I am having fun staying with Alex and Lisa while David and Mari are vacationing at an island resort in the Philippines after attending a conference in China. As an extra bonus, Gary (number two son) is also here until he moves into his historic condo this coming week. I have been fortunate to have had Alex “watching duty” before, and it is always a treat to walk Alex to school and pick him up when his after-school program is done. Often when visiting I have had time during the school day to explore new areas (in September 2011 I delved into Concord one day, and the mills in Lowell the next) During this five day stay, however, only two are school days, so limited exploration time on my own, but you know my itchy feet.
On Friday the 24th I had no plans in mind for the day until meeting Alex at 2:35 at school. So after walking him there I began reading area literature I brought with me from my collection, and then I checked TripAdvisor on-line, where I was reminded of the National Historic Site – Saugus Iron Works which (after checking Google-maps) I found was just 9 miles and 25 minutes away – perfect for the four plus hours I had ‘till the school bell rang – and this site was “on my list.”
SAUGUS IRON WORKS
I got into the car and off I went with the map on my IPad’s screen, and the Iron Works audio tours downloaded into my Iphone, It was basically a straight back road shot, but I did something wrong and soon found myself too far south. When checking the map on my Ipad, something went amiss and the map vanished (has happened before – really no way to save a map, but more on this later). So, what do I do I ask myself, and I replied, “Maps App on my Iphone.” So I pulled over, let it ascertain my position, entered my destination, hit directions, and found a route to Saugus. “Now I just have to carefully read,” I said to myself, but then I saw a button I had not realized was there that said ‘begin.’ I tapped it and a GPS voice began to recite the directions, and off I went. Wow, this technology is great, and soon I was in the parking lot at the Saugus Iron Works, only 38 minutes later than I should have been.
Waterwheels have always intrigued me since a 2nd grade painting I did followed by a 5th grade science project. I have also been fascinated by our colonial iron works, but never understood the process – BUT now I do !!! Since I got “lost” on the way to Saugus (but I got to see Melrose, Malden and Revere along the wrong way) I only had about an hour and a half at the iron works, but have now spent almost the same time on their website which even includes a film on the 1950 archaeology dig on the site. This dig and study revealed the details of the 350 year old site (dating from 1646) of the first successful, integrated iron works in the New World, and enabled the accurate recreation of the site providing the best interpretation (in my opinion) of how the ore is turned into cast iron, and then wrought iron, and even into bars and rods to be made into nails. I finally learned the difference between cast and wrought iron. What comes out of the furnace is cast into molds in the sand, and then those bars can be hammered into wrought bars. In that process the “fibers” in the iron are aligned giving the iron additional strength. In the next few images I will outline the process. The Saugus Iron Works National Historic Site is small, manageable, and packed with comprehendible information (just follow this link to learn how to get the audio tours free from Itunes)
I began the tour with the 12 minute introductory video (also on line) which is what I always do at a historical site and highly recommend as the way to begin wherever one is offered. I then toured the site with Iphone to listening to the audio tour. From time to time I also listened in on a ranger explaining things to a school group.
An Undershot Waterwheel. One of five waterwheels at the “works.”
The bellows at the furnace driven by water power
Above is an undershot waterwheel, one of 5 wheels at the works to drive bellows or machinery to forge the iron and then to make bars or rods for nails. In the background is the tidal basin allowing for the shipping of the finished iron. Water from a mile away powered the water wheels which are sited below a bluff allowing for more power from the falling water – a perfect early industrial site.
Left – Massive bellows in the furnace to stimulate the intense burning and heat needed are driven by the cogs on this 3 to 4 foot diameter axle on the water wheel. Within these early 17th century structures it is an absolute delight to see the utilization of what we called in 5th grade science as the “six simple machines.”
The axle on this wheel raises the 500 pound hammer to then fall on cast rods to turn them into strong wrought iron.
This water driven hammer pounds the cast iron into wrought iron giving it strength.
This is the opening at the bottom of the furnace where the molten iron is drawn out flowing into the sand to make bars to be later wrought, or into molds for firebacks, pots, or other cast implements.
Bottom of the Blast Furnace where the molten iron is drawn off.
The iron making process simply explained. CLICK to ENGLARE
The iron making process was carefully explained in the small museum. Also on display were artifacts found during the excavations in the early 1950s including wooden parts from one waterwheel and building – carefully preserved underground for 300 years.
On Saturday the rains continued keeping us inside. Alex’s friend called asking him to a late afternoon movie, so Gary and I took the opportunity to hop in the car to explore the Balmoral Condominiums in Andover, Massachusetts (about 15 miles and 20 minutes north of David) where he just signed a lease. He had not learned the history of the building, but we soon were immersed with learning – with me taking the research lead (you know me by now). The Shawsheen Village area of town was built as a utopian factory village by William H. Wood as his headquarters for the American Woolen Company. Needless to say, I have immersed myself in learning additional history (on-line) about the textile industry in the area and Wood’s importance including the Textile Strike of 1912. Last month Gary and I explored Newburyport to Ipswich and environs. I never did get to tell you all about that area, but it was great to fill-in this part of the map, and I will get back to Ipswich soon and share that with you.
Well, another rainy day inside today Sunday (Alex loves to stay home on the weekends), but I will close now and play with him (and Gary) and read. Oh, and what I promised to tell you – how to save a map on your IPad. Press down on the sleep button and the Home button simultaneously. You’ll hear a click as it captures the screen. Do this for as many maps as you want to save. The screen (map or any screen image) is captured in Photos and there is the map when you open the photos folder. I even found that I could enlarge the image for more detail. Great hint, great way to save maps for when no Wi-Fi is available – and I love maps. Let the screen saving begin. Bye, and thank you for reading and learning and seeing, yours, RAY
Back again, this time rewarding myself for all the work work done on TOURISTS ACCOMMODATED which was enjoyed by almost 500 guests in the audience with 120 alone on our Mother’s Day matinee.
I have been visiting the Berkshires for many decades and can’t believe I am still discovering new back roads and new things to do. But, unfortunately many of the spots I wish to now visit do not open until around Memorial Day — but no problem, I will be back. And, maybe on that next excursion I will pick up some of these other places like Edith Wharton’s The Mount or Daniel Chester French’s Chesterwood.
Wednesday morning after having two unusual lap visits by Simon, I spent an enjoyable 2 1/2 hours at the Norman Rockwell Museum. Cathy and I visited there in the late 90s, so I was due for another visit. His iconic (in my opinion) Stockbridge Main Street at Christmastime was done in 1967 for McCall’s is one of my favorites. For the last 23 years there has been a re-creation of this scene with the street closed off around the first of December. I heard a docent talk about this painting,, and of note are the dark windows at The Red Lion Inn — at this time the Inn was only open in the summertime.
I also listened in to the docents talking to several school groups. In one gallery it was the group, me, and then one of the guards came in who I earlier noted having a very stern look on his face, but as he too listened I saw a gleam and glow on his face as it broke into a smile.
I could not resist, when he was leaving I said, “I noted your smile emerge while you listened.” “I really enjoy seeing the school groups and their enthusiasm,” he started, ,”often I see the same kids bringing their parents back weeks later to share and tell them about Rockwell’s work. It is so important to stimulate the next generation of Rockwell lovers,” he concluded. So true as I have stated for the survival of any organization, hobby or interest.
In 1986 Rockwell’s studio was moved from downtown Stockbridge, where he lived for the last 25 years of his life, to the site of the new museum.
Rockwell’s studio seen through one of his son, Peter’s, sculptures on the grounds
It is presented as it was in 1960, and I was fortunate to hear the same excellent docent recount tales of this fascinating space. He would sign copies of his ADVENTURES OF AN ILLUSTRATOR on the desk there. I only have one signed copy left, and think I am going to read it before it sells. Prior to his move to Stockbridge he lived and worked in Arlington, Vermont, another of my favorite spots on my favorite US Route 7.
My next destination was Millerton, New York and the antique center there. I followed a section of Route 41 I had been on before down to pick up Route 23 to Hillsdale, NY to head south on NY Route 22. This section of NY 22 I had not traversed in ages and had forgotten how peaceful and pastoral it is following a valley through farm country. This route I highly recommend if you are traveling north/south along the eastern NY border . Millerton is always fun to walk around even though it does not take much time. The Oakhurst Diner was closed today (you know how much I
Oakhurst Diner – Millerton, NY
enjoy classic diners), but being a tad hungry I entered the Irving Farm Coffee House “best cup in town since 2003” and asked what was most popular (always a good idea). I was told to have the Cali D’Lox which consisted of lox, avocados, cucumbers and capers with a spread of cream cheese on fantastic toasted multi-grain bread. Definitely worth anyone’s visit.
Following US Route 44 I crossed into Lakeville, Connecticut and saw just below the first pocket-knife factory in the US a historical marker “Arsenal of the Revolution.” Having lived in the NW corner of Connecticut prior to moving to NH I knew that this was an 18th century area of iron production, but I was unaware of this foundry (partially owned at one time by Ethan Allen). The placard explained how the cannon were cast vertically in the ground, and when hardened raised above a vertical bore driven by a water wheel to ream out the barrel. After many test firings, markings were made on the cannon to advise the direction a cannon ball would go so compensation could be made when firing in battle. I need to learn more, but even more fun will be learning more about Ethan Allen and his escapes. He shows up everywhere in my travels from Cornwall and Litchfield Connecticut to now Lakeville, Bennington, Vermont, Fort Ticonderoga, and I have even been to his homestead in Burlington, VT. Still too much fun.
Heading back north and when in Salisbury I realized that instead of continuing to Canaan to pick up my favorite US 7 I had better go north on Route 41 on another section I had not been on.
Again, a most pastoral ride and worthy of a return sports car run.
Today on the way home I will explore (if the mountain road is open for the season) Mount Greylock where I camped in my Model A Ford in the mid-1960s, and have not been back since. I don’t recall visiting the top of the mountain and Bascom Lodge built by the CCC in the 1930s. In 2010 I had hoped to go there in BLACK BEAUTY, but she was not done in time. But will do so this year for sure for an overnight and diner watching the sunset from the highest point in Massachusetts — who wants to come?
I cannot believe how fast my time goes in the lobby of The Red Lion Inn reading and writing, and having diner in the dining room. I am so glad I now make my visits here two nights, but it may not be enough. My travels will be continuing, catch you soon, as always, yours, RAY
A typical Millerton NY store – frozen in time, and with luck a postscript tonight with images from atop Mount Greylock
