Extreme heat; mass shootings; and destructive weather events, including flooding, most recently again in Vermont, cause me concern for the well-being of our children and grandchildren – we are leaving them a world unlike, and worse, than the world we entered. Hopefully you share the same concerns.
But from my little, hopefully “relatively safe” corner of the world, I am always sharing one thing my Dad taught me, “there is always someone worse off.” Thus we must always remember to be thankful for, and count our blessings. I have many such “Rayism’s,” as I call them, sharing this, and my other thoughts about life with others.
As I have mentioned, I have not traveled as much the past couple years – tad afraid to considering world conditions, and my back – but, remember “there is always someone worse off.” I made a short trip yesterday, 30 July, just to see an area that is now “worse off.”
Proctorsville, VT – Crows Bakery and Cafe – April 10, 2011
then, 16 May 2015 “Approaching the side road to Proctorsville, BLUE BELLE, in tears cried, “you always take BLACK BEAUTY’s picture at Crows. I want my picture there too.” I listen to the ladies, so here she is on that day.
Proctorsville, VT – Crows Bakery and Cafe – May 16, 2015
Sadly a few years back ownership and format changed at Crows, and it closed completely within the last year or more. Now, 30 July, looking across the torn up street, while I was sitting in BLUE BELLE, here is Crows’ building – fate unknown due to recent flooding.
Proctorsville, VT – Former Crows Bakery and Cafe – July 30, 2023
actually, I was surprised to find Proctorsville’s Main Street open and passable. The bridge had held, but train tracks were torn up. Rubbish circled the old church to the right of the former Crows’ building, and the next several houses appear to no longer be habitable.
This week I should take an overnight or two, but most likely will not. I am enjoying planning trips, and not quite sure why I am not taking off on the “drop of a hat” as I used to. But I have ideas and notes spread about, so who knows. I do have to finish touring you along the St Lawrence Seaway and River and through the locks, so I do travel reliving my adventures writing about them to share.
Just my thoughts, concerns and comments. I welcome your comments on our “changing world.” Stay safe and well, and send me some short trip temptation ideas. Yours, luv, RAB
Ever wonder where I come up with some adventures? An idea can come from anywhere, and this week I purchased a booklet, OLDE NUMBER ONE – CHESTERFIELD, New Hampshire – A BICENTENNIAL COMMUNITY – JULY 2, 3, 4, 1976. Why not? As grants were given along the Connecticut River, they were numbered 1 to 4. Chesterfield is Number One, Walpole Number Three. Sadly, but 15 miles away, I have not really explored Chesterfield, only driven through on Route 63. With the centerfold map in this booklet (all guide or travel or history booklets should or must have center-fold maps) I knew I had to explore there. BLUE BELLE agreed, and off we went for 54 miles in 2 1/2 hours today.
the center-fold map that prompted today – click to enlarge.
Founded in 1752 (same year as Walpole) Chesterfield’s population was 3,552 at the 2020 census. It includes the villages of Spofford and West Chesterfield, but appears even more rural than Walpole as I can attest after today’s partial explorations. Of interest, and I always enjoy exploring them, there are 24 cemeteries in the Town. And the Historical Society has a great website that you should visit.
For this visit I drove down River Road along the Connecticut River, and turned west on Route 9 towards Vermont. But just before crossing the river, for the first time I turned south at a small business building with the Riverside Hotel behind it on what I believe is Mountain Road, following the Connecticut River, muddy after the recent flooding. I knew the road eventually ended, and when it did with a bar across the path in the woods, I turned around. And then, coming back, I saw the Route 9 bridges, and the hotel — I had no idea of its size and view on the river.
The plan (and BLUE BELLE approved) was to head off on Gulf Road (DIRT) from the hotel. Cannot wait to get back – yeah dirt with a stream off to the side (careful you do not fall off to the side). Remember to click my images for a larger view.
Did I say 24 cemeteries? I turned onto Herrick Road to get to Welcome Hill Road that comes off Route 9 (Keene to Brattleboro). Herrrick Road had been washed out in many places with the recent rains, but BB2 and I could squeeze by. At the intersection of Welcome Hill Road and Route 9 (barely visible to the rear below) is the oldest cemetery in town – West Burying-Ground, also known as the Moses Smith, which was deeded in 1772 – 251 years ago.
We turned back down Welcome Hill Road to Herrick Road, and then continued on Gulf Road, cutting over to Stage Road (need to re-explore here), and then to Route 9 turning east until coming up to Twin Brook Road to find the Wheeler Burying-Ground whichcontains 19 known graves, ranging from 1821 – 1921. I believe I have told you I am studying stone walls. The stone wall enclosure here is absolutely amazing.
We continued on Twin Brook Road to Route 63, just north of Chesterfield’s Common with its stone buildings.
Turning left at the Common, I never realized that it was a through road – Old Chesterfield Road, and yes off to another cemetery, the Town Pound and the site of the quarry for the stones for these buildings. Passing the cemetery I found the old Town Pound, but according to the 1976 map the quarry is “not accessible for inspection” and I saw no evidence. Here is the Town Pound – next trip I will dis-mount BLUE BELLE and inspect more closely.
I crossed Route 9 to Spofford Lake, into Spofford itself, and then a back road to Westmoreland, connecting with Route 63 and home. Once home, and looking at many maps, I see I missed some roads. I WILL GO BACK FOR MORE EXPLORATIONS HERE – you should do the same, and are welcome to join me. Let me know if you wish a clear PDF of the 1976 map and points of interest.
Remember, even in your own back yard there is much to discover and learn about – get out and explore, luv, RAY
PS – waking on Monday I realized I should tell you about two Chesterfield features that cover much of its southern land area: PISGAH STATE PARK and its trails, and MADAME SHERRIE’S CASTLE and forest. In June 2015, I visited the castle’s remains and the area, and you can click here to read that report.
I have not physically traveled much in the past three years, but have certainly read and planned future adventures. This February, when entering Lisai’s in Bellows Falls, on the shelf where newspapers are left was a copy of the March 2023 SMITHSONIAN MAGAZINE. The subscriber had clipped the address label and left it to share – most likely for me. Once home, on page 82, I read a small ad from the St. Lawrence Cruises Lines. Having never heard of them before, I immediately went on line and read about their small ship and trips. Next day some emails back and forth, and the next day my check was “in the mail” for their Canadian Connection Cruise from 6-12 July.
The planning fun began, but soon, so did extreme pain in walking return. Figuring that again I had nerves cut off in my spine, I was able to get an appointment with my back surgeon who said I eventually will need a third lumbar fusion. But, my MRI showed a cyst on my spine that most likely was cutting off the nerves causing the pain and walking problems. I was offered a “temporary fix” – rupture the cyst, and that is what I had done on 21 June. Hours later walking without pain, and two weeks later in the car to Canada to sail the St. Lawrence Seaway and River from Kingston, Ontario, to Quebec City. Once done I will have been through all locks on the Seaway, and have traveled completely by water from Chicago to Southampton, England.
This adventure I will write about in three segments to remember and share. This post will be my positioning on 5 July on the Canadian border, and my return home after the cruise. The cruise itself I am going to split into two segments: 1-the stops along the river; and 2-traversing the seven locks of the St. Lawrence Seaway. I had several options to drive and stay close to the Thousand Islands bridge to Ivy Lea. I decided to find a B&B in Sackets Harbor. Here goes.
NY Thruway to Utica (sorry) and back roads working over to Route 3 along the shore of Lake Ontario. I have now driven just about the complete shoreline. In this area there are many creeks emptying into the lake, and the surroundings are dotted with fishing camps and businesses to support those sportsmen. I had selected an overnight in Sackets Harbor because I need to learn more about the War of 1812, and this was a key spot.
This monument in the center of the battlefield park reads “In memory of the officers in men who served on this frontier during the war of 1812 and to mark the battlefield of Sackets Harbor May 29, 1813.”
Looking from the park north to Canada.
This is the commandant’s house and now a museum.
Of course, the day I arrived, village founder Augustus Sacket’s historic home, now the Sackets Harbor Visitor Center, was closed. Reason for a return visit.
The main street is amazing with inviting restaurants and shops.
I did not realize when booking that my B&B was right downtown. Located just across the street from the building with a red roof, I will continue to carry my drone with me.
For all of $95 – yes $95 USD — best B&B I have had – THE SACKETS HARBOR B&B, Mary and her husband were great. Plan a visit soon. I will be going back. Remember you can click on an image in my galleries for larger views.
On July 6th I crossed the border, drove to the Kingston, Ontario, Via Rail station to park my car for a week. Five hours later I was aboard the Canadian Empress and leaving the dock. But I will separate the next six days into two tales, soon to be linked below:
SAILING the ST. LAWRENCE SEAWAY and RIVER from KINGSTON TO QUEBEC CITY SAILING THROUGH THE LOCKS ON THE ST. LAWRENCE SEAWAY
So, now to 12 July, and heading back to Kingston from Quebec City by Via Rail. I had several train schedule options. A 3PM train could be tight (ends up I could have made it), and the 8 or 9 AM the next day would mean overnight in Quebec City (I have visited four times), but a later arrival to Kingston and home. The 5PM train to Montreal staying overnight there seemed the best plan, and best option to travel business class and be “wined and dined.” A short cab ride to the station, I checked in and then headed to the business class lounge. Here is the main station room, and then a gallery (which you can click) showing my train and business class car – this is my single seat on the right.
Goodbye QC – I will be back. Below looking east over the harbor.
On the Canadian Empress I should have documented all my amazing meals including soups, salads, and deserts with a photo essay. Sadly I did not – next time. VIA RAIL meals alright, institutional, and I chose the pasta over the fish. Wine and drinks flow, and time nicely passes for three plus hours.
scenery not like out west, but I had fun following the route on the VIA RAIL website, tracking location, time between stations, and speed – up to 160 KM/H (100 MPH). Outside QC the tracks cross the St. Lawrence, and run along the southern shore (inland) until crossing back into downtown Montreal and the central station. I captured the sun setting.
Arriving in Montreal after 9PM, and with a 9AM departure to Kingston, I decided to stay close to the station. My best option was the Hotel Bonadventure. Most I have ever paid (I think) for a room ($285 USD), but a six minute walk away, so no cab rides and lost time. Hey, I was only “buying” the room to sleep in for about ten hours.
I walk in and find the elevator – it says to lobby, but: Lobby on 10th floor – elevator only goes there Confused, arriving there someone on the floor says I was in the right place, go that way I check in, and am told my room is on the first floor. “But wait,” I say, “the elevator did not stop on a first floor “No,” the receptionist says, “the next floor down is the first floor with a different elevator.” I find the elevator and push 1 to go down one floor – intuitively it should be the 9th floor Addition to confusion, the room numbers on the “first floor” which I think should be the 9th, are in the 1100s and 1400s My room, 1434 at furthest end – and you would think should be on the 14th floor starting with 14.
You still with me? Getting up hours later, here is the view outside my 1st, 9th or 14th floor window. I Guess to justify $285 — “GO FIGURE.”
Less than eleven hours after arrival in Montreal I was back at the station at 8:16 AM.
this time riding “economy class” since not meal time, and what should have been just under three hours. Seats smaller, tray table in armrest and smaller. but I did have the space to myself the whole way.
The train was a half hour late, and it took almost a half hour in line at the border. That did not happen on the way up. I encourage you to study a NY state map and learn about the area bordering Lake Ontario and routes to get there. So many fun roads for me through Vermont. But while I had no rain on this holiday, Vermont was devastated, and watching websites of road closures I had to come up with new ideas for the journey home. I decided to visit Alexandria Bay, and then back road down to Utica, and cheat the rest of the way across NY state to Vermont. Glad I did. Alexandria Bay is a vacation spot, on the Lake, but unlike classier Sackets Bay is full of younger crowd restaurants and shops. And, then I saw this on the water — the Cornwall Brothers Store Museum – 1866 stone building housing a museum focusing on local settlers, early trade and commerce – you know I stopped.
I feel qualified to judge small museums, and this is one of the best I have visited – well maybe since it had so many of my interests including summer resorts, early commerce, vacation souvenirs, a Western Town amusement park, defunct, but I did not know of it, and more. And, the museum looks out to the BOLDT CASTLE in this gateway area to the Thousand Islands – another stellar reason to return.
the above is the castle through the museum’s back window. When cruising on the river, you are so focused on the castle – check out the story and history of it – you do not even realize Alexandria Bay is on the south shore – well it is small. Road trip anyone?
And, this area also saw War of 1812 action. You do not have to click and enlarge these panels, remember I do this so I can remember, and these are for me, and the books I have ordered on the war since I returned home. But you may wish to see this YouTube video I found of the Battle of Cranberry Creek. The narrator says this is the only instance of US soldiers killed on US soil during battle.
Two interesting remaining features in this 1866 store are the elevator and the bank vault which was built into the bedrock below the building serving as an anchor for the structure. At times the store also served as the local bank.
This display was fun. Here are two panels (remember you can click to enlarge). Shared here for Mr. Wrench (or Mr. Spanner depending upon which side of the pond – (aka David C.) to plan a similar event at “West West.”
and some views around the museum.
I complimented the docent, left a donation, but liking to “vote with my dollars” should join the historical society there — I shall return.
I then followed NY 12 to Utica – new to me route, and not much along the way. BUT WAIT, and curses I did not have time to turn around. The road above Boonville divided around a flight of locks. Thank you Google for the image.
well, this has been a to and from tale, and the first long adventure in years. Do stop back for the rest of this adventure which will be linked from the below — stay safe and well, luv, RAY
COMING SOONEST
SAILING the ST. LAWRENCE SEAWAY and RIVER from KINGSTON TO QUEBEC CITY SAILING THROUGH THE LOCKS ON THE ST. LAWRENCE SEAWAY
I know, I know. First off I have reported getting to this adventure, and home, but not the field trip itself; and, I know, I know, it is two months late. But never too late to show you my time again exploring with the Canal Society of NY State. The plus for me is to “relive” the experience, remember “I write to remember, but love to share.”
But, first, on Wednesday afternoon, 21 June I had my CT Guided Synovial Cyst Rupture, and all went smoothly again at Dartmouth Hitchcock Medical Center. Quick outpatient procedure, even though “put out of it” albeit for a short time. By Thursday morning pain gone in the back of my legs while trying to walk, and strength and stamina returning while standing and walking. Just came in from some yard work, and Thursday spent over an hour on my feet touring a garden with a group. No guarantee this “fix” will last long before another cyst moves into my spine, but “here is hoping.” I now feel confident about my next adventure, and the last two days completed arrangements.
In preparing this post I finished relating the full day tour on Monday, and then realized that I left you hanging on Sunday 23 April pending my arrival for the afternoon with the group. Remember I ran hard in the morning turning over many rocks. So, Monday is below, and I will be brief with some fun images taken Sunday afternoon starting at the Port Byron Old Erie Canal Heritage Park. Remember, if heading east on the NY Thruway – STOP IN, or if on back roads in the Port Byron area, park, walk down the path, and STOP IN. This first image is the museum, looking back from the park walk from the lock.
heading down the path to the original remaining buildings at this lock site, you pass the lock that parallels the NY State Thruway.
you may know one of the things I enjoy with images is texture – here is a corner of the lock.
below looking west, and yes, the Thruway with the truck heading east.
The Erie House was built in 1894 and it served as a canalside tavern and hotel. As a remaining treasure of canal days, it deserves a visit.
Below is a lamp in the Erie House. Since you should know I love old country stores, I will now share I have had two identical antique lamps like this hanging in my country store decorated book shop for now twenty-five years.
today the society was here to pay tribute to Tom Grasso for his years of dedication to the society, which was founded in 1956. This stone, packed with fossils was dedicated in tribute to Tom.
The society recently was able to establish a permanent site as a museum, library and meeting site for the society and community. We next assembled there at The Samuel Center for Canal History for a talk, and tour the grounds. The original canal towpath would have been right under the pulpit of this former church, and outside you can see the remains to a stone arch of the 1819 aqueduct. Below you see the former church, river, and next the stone remains along the bank (center of image directly below).l
amazing what still remains to be seen if you know where to look.
————————————— now to the full day
Monday, 24 April, was a full bus tour of Erie Canal sites in the Auburn and Port Byron area. We began at the Oakwood Quarry, opened in 1975. DeWitt Clinton explored this area while searching routes for the Erie Canal. Unique geology, and I want to learn more. Fossils abound – note the orange layer which is the result of ash buildup 390 million years ago – humbling and hard to comprehend.
The area we are exploring is within the ancestral lands of the Cayuga Nation. We drove through the lovely landscape, and stopped and were welcomed at Lake Side Entertainment in Union Springs. A new building is being constructed, but the current entertainment (casino) is in a former auto parts store in a “butler building.” We were each kindly given a $20 voucher to “play.” I had no idea what to do, but figured out you put the voucher in the machine and push a button and watch the points and dollars go up or down. Push stop and a new paper voucher spits out with your “current monies.” In time I went to a machine in the corner, put my voucher in, pushed play, and the machine played for maybe ten minutes. Even pushing stop did not work, I thought I had broken the machine. Finally, wearing itself out, it stopped. The screen read $33.52. I figured, let me print the voucher, and cash out. THANK YOU.
Below is the Cayuga-Seneca Barge Canal Lock, largely completed in 1916. This canal connects these two Finger Lakes, and flows north into the New York State Barge Canal just to the west of the Richmond Aqueduct ruins. You may recall on my way out I traveled again to Seneca Falls, and visited lock 2 and 3 on the canal. According to my notes on the tour, this Tainter Gate controls the level of the lakes and their flow, eventually to the Oswego River and Lake Ontario.
Here are images of Lock 1, and the gates that control the flow of waters.
close-ups of the flow control mechanisms.
below looking south towards Seneca Falls and he lakes.
After lunch we headed to Port Byron, and Schasel Park (I had stopped there on the way out).
Looking east from the park, this is the enlarged canal from the 1850s, albeit blocked off. Efforts are underway to restore it for recreational use. The original canal was built to the south (to right of image) and into a hillside. When able to build into a hillside construction was only needed to one half of the excavation effort, building up on only one side – smart. Draining of canals in the winter kills plant life that if allowed to grow would clog the canals.
Next, the real highlight of the day – the Richmond Aqueduct over the Seneca River, and the original Clinton’s Ditch Lock 62 alongside the 1850s enlargement. We headed up to the entranceway for a hike down. There were golf carts, and with the leg pain I opted for a ride with my cane for rough ground. You may click on the sign to the left for a larger image.
The site below of the lock on the original canal which emptied into the river. Canal boats then were pulled across the river to continue on in the original “ditch.” To correct that, the enlarged canal with the aqueduct was completed in 1856 becoming, “…one of the largest and most important structures on the Erie Canal.”
above and below you see the stone structure for the trough of the canal, and to the side the towpath which we could walk to the end. The structure complete across the river was removed ages ago for navigation.
below looking west
and here below looking east up the river.
sadly some miscreants decided this was a spot for their “art.”
and, below, RAB in the ATV getting a ride.
What’s Next? — Yes, what’s next. Thank you for getting this far – stay safe and well, as always, luv, RAY
I am writing on my porch to you while enjoying the fragrance from my Lilac Tree that is coming into bloom. Cathy and I had this planted probably 17 years ago. The tree was much smaller then. I apologize for the unkept looking grounds – there is a reason.
In reviewing my posts that I have shared with you for the past 12 years, as listed on my LOG OF ADVENTURES, I find that I am terribly behind in traveling and sharing this year, 2023. Yes, since early 2020, COVID changed the ease and joys of booking and traveling, but there is also a reason, I have been afraid to venture out. I had plans, have cancelled some out, and hope to complete an upcoming unique trip I found, booked, and paid for the end of February, before my current “hiccup.”
In May 2016, I had my first spine Lumbar fusion. My brain was not sending nerve signals back through my spine to my left leg telling it I was trying to walk. All went well. 2019 was my best travel and exploration year ever, but by February 2020, my spine had a different plan again. I was discharged from DHMC after my second fusion the day the first NH COVID case was detected there. Reviewing my LOG OF ADVENTURES, I did get out a great deal the last couple years on shorter explorations, but as 2023 has progressed walking has again become problematic. MRIs show a cyst compressing the nerves in my spine resulting in pain in the back of my legs while trying to walk, and quick exhaustion resulting from walking. Dr. Pearson, my back surgeon, said I am facing a third fusion, but recommended a CT-guided facet joint synovial cyst rupture first to remove the compression to the nerves – essentially this is a form of spinal stenosis. Outpatient this Wednesday – hope to be “on the road” again soon.
During COVID “downtime” I have had projects keeping me busy: 1965 Airstream Caravel (sold); 1959 FAN Sportsman’s Friend (now for sale); BLACK BEAUTY (planning to sell); collecting vintage toy campers, and sharing; move a small barn/large shed to become a “backyard camp” – (did not work out); and now planning a “camp” addition behind the book shop.
And you can imagine I have piles of travel literature to sit and read and plan trips. I even found a book on the history of arm chair travel. In those piles and in the plans: Hudson River area; Adirondacks and Catskills: Wilton, CT, hometown area; Blackstone Valley, RI, to Newport and South County; Cape Cod; and Maine. Of course there are dirt roads in Vermont and NH for BLUE BELLE.
HAPPY MEMORIAL DAY 2023 — and I finally got back out to explore a tad, but I still owe you my report from my last Erie Canal adventure – well, “on the list.” Besides having something to accomplish every couple days around home, there is a reason I have not been out and about. My spinal stenosis has been advancing making it not fun to walk a great distance. I have another appointment with my spine doctors this week, and hope to find a solution to avoid a third back surgery and lumbar fusion. As my Dad taught me, “there is always someone worse off,” – not even mentioning the lives lost that we are remembering this holiday. It doesn’t make it better, but you need to be thankful for what you have. And, as you have heard me say, after losing Cathy, “accept and adjust.” More on that at the end.
This Friday, Saturday, and today Sunday, was the 47th Bernardston Gas Engine Show, Flea Market & Craft Fair, in Bernardston, Massachusetts, and I learned that the “a” is silent. BLUE BELLE does not need a reason to back out of her garage, but it helps to have a journey in mind. Our 75-mile loop today was down River Road (do take that route) crossing over to US 5 at Brattleboro, Vermont, and south to Bernardston. Returning home I cut back across the Connecticut River picking up Route 63 in Northfield, Massachusetts, and then sliding on that route all the way home. You have heard me before – both great roads to experience.
The show’s big day was yesterday, and I will share below why I did not go on Saturday, but I arrived today about 10:30 AM, and toured the flea market, without parting with a dime, and then sat under a tent. Soon it was announced the tractor parade would begin, and I was in the perfect spot near the commentator. Circling the field, arriving first was the UCC Church’s bell clanging to signal the parade. It is this church that has sponsored the event.
I wish I could remember all that was related, but I will give you some of what I fortunately learned and remembered. I was intrigued by this massive rig from the distance, and learned its huge Diesel engine has a gasoline engine to turn it over to start.
Not all tractors are the ubiquitous John Deere green. Here is a young lady driving a red Farmall (note the weights on the front wheels to hold it down when pulling a big load); followed by a nice early black tractor.
See the large treads on the back wheels above? It was not until the 1930s that rubber tires were on the rear of tractors – instead they had large iron wheels with metal treads. That is because a way to keep the deep ribbed treads on the tires had not yet been discovered. But, once the large rubber treads were possible, the switch over was made, and tractors were able to pull better without the slipping iron wheels did. And, now you also know.
Having seen this tractor from the distance, I could not wait for it to arrive. Most tractors, as work vehicles, had minimal extra metal and styling – but this “streamlined” OLIVER is so reminiscent of the 1930s.
Most of the “hit ‘n miss” engines on display had probably left after the big day on Saturday, but I did get to enjoy this display.
I bought lunch at the church’s booth, then it was back up US 5 a short ways, right turn to cross over to Northfield, and Route 63 home. About a 3 1/2 hour outing, and very enjoyable on this amazing day, and a good ride to get me back out again.
But Ray, “you said more at the end.” Well, if you made it to the end of my ramblings, let me ramble along more to catch you up on my thoughts and projects. I did not go to the show on Saturday because friends and I were scouting Vermont Architectural Salvage. The back story – for the past five to six weeks I have been attempting to move a small barn/large shed to my back yard to serve as a rustic retreat overlooking trees and Vermont sunsets. Too big for the small guys, and two small for the big movers – by the way folks, have the courtesy to at least send an email back, or return a call saying “go away.” Finally found someone, but his method was iffy, and border line (I will stop there). Dreading breaking the news to my friend, I finally did so last Saturday that I was not going to accomplish the task. But, by the next morning her email said, “she-shed.” Plans developed, and she and our builder friend had a great time in White River Junction, and found just the correct windows for the “she-shed.” My retreat plans in the back now are morphing into something son, Gary, and I talked about – a porch off the back of the bookshop. It will have the same wooded, private view I want, and a plan is in the works with our builder friend.
“Why a retreat in the back,” I hear you asking. Well, that back story started at the vintage camper shows I went to, COVID, purchasing my Airstream, replacing that with my 1959 FAN Sportsman’s Friend “canned ham” which I did camp out in the back last summer – albeit facing civilization.
So, for sale (and soon to be advertised worldwide) is LADYRABIII – my 1959 FAN Sportsman’s Friend. Restored, spare tire, cover, and new outside awning I had made. Ready for summer at a reasonable price of $8,500.
And, she is happy in the garage, but BLACK BEAUTY would like to hit the road with more opportunity than I can offer. So, she could be purchased, at a discount from what I have invested, but still some money — well, half or a third of a new car purchase.
Well, about it to share – but remember I write for myself to remember, and often to help solidify my thoughts and decisions. I have an amazing adventure coming up which hopefully will not be a problem walking wise, and listening to the train whistles from my porch, I need to head off on Amtrak again. Watch out Scott – there is a stop (or two) at Glacier. As always, luv, RAY
As you know, on the way back from Buffalo in May 2019, I stumbled upon the PORT BYRON OLD ERIE CANAL HERITAGE PARK, learned of the Canal Society of New York State, joined the society, and have enjoyed their field trips since then. It was now time to head to Auburn, NY, for the Spring 2023 Field Trip. Not starting until Sunday at 1PM, I left early Saturday the 22nd to have a day and a half to explore.
Route 9 across Vermont through Bennington, I headed west on NY 7 until reaching NY 22 where I turned right to see Hoosick Falls. Never been there before – and I advise you make that turn as well to see the old Town. Then joining with Route 67, I headed west. through Ballston Spa (stopping at the antique center to score with a purchase of four books) and in Amsterdam I cheated and jumped on the super-slab, stopping again at this “rest area.”
the apparent “bridge to nowhere” is more noticeable off season when the water is drained from the canal.
in season the gates would be lowered, raising the level of the Mohawk River so the lock may be used. Hopefully this panel will help explain.
Exiting in Utica, I headed west on NY 5 into Chittenango where the canal was located. My third time passing through, in November 2019, I was able to visit the canal museum, closed this trip, but here is the museum from the trail parking lot, and also looking back east.
continuing west, I stopped at the Camillus Erie Canal Park, and found it open Saturday afternoon in “off season.” YEAH. The museum is in the Sims’ Store Museum.
by now you should know I love 19th and early 20th century Country Stores, and have my bookshop looking like one with my collections. Here is what I saw upon entry.
The small but interesting museum is on two floors. The important feature of this location is the Nine Mile Creek Aqueduct. To the east, I did not walk down to see the restoration last time through.
There are/were many aqueducts on the Erie Canal facilitating the canal to cross over rivers and valleys. I have had a hard time understanding their construction, but this model helped — in this post (and the next post) – I hope to give you an appreciation of that construction and their function.
at the top of the image above you see the towpath, then a canal boat in a trough holding the water of the canal. The lower side of the image you see the support structures, and the river the canal is crossing flows underneath.
Coming back downstairs there was a woman talking to the docent, and I said, “I know you, you are Dan Wiles’ wife, the park’s director.” “Yes,” Lisa replied, and now I will remember her name. Integral to the Erie Canal and its preservation and history, I met Dan in 2008 or 2009 on my first trip after loosing my Cathy. I travelled the Erie Canal for three days with Dan when he owned Mid-Lakes Navigation. Then I had a great adventure with he and Lisa on my first Canal Society adventure in 2019. A great chat (remember timing is everything), Lisa then told me I could drive down to the aqueduct – perfect considering my current walking ability – but since then learning some new P/T tricks am becoming much improved. Off I went on the side road for about a mile to the parking lot, and then the short distance down to the aqueduct.
here are some plaques to read, and then a great drone image I found on line which puts it all into perspective.
The “trunk” of the aqueduct (what holds the water) here is made of wood replicating how it was originally built. I first had a difficult time understanding the construction on the side opposite the tow-path, The supports in the image above carry the towpath on the far side, but nothing on the opposite side. I kept trying to figure out what was supposed to be there, finally understanding nothing. You will see this even clearer in my next post which will include the Richmond Aqueduct we visited Monday on the field trip.
Arriving at the Holiday Inn in Auburn, NY, (not my choice – but clean and institutional – with all extras now eliminated, e.g. no pad of paper and pen, only flimsy plastic cups, soap dispensers which are actually probably wiser for the environment, but saving them money) I checked in, and then figured would have dinner in Weedsport or Port Byron. On the way I stopped at the Centreport Aqueduct, which I also visited in October, 2014. Stopping helped me get a clearer idea of aqueducts – sometimes “I am slow.” The image on the left is the canal “ditch” leading west to the aqueduct supports – remember you may “click” my galleries for larger images.
Sunday morning before the field trip commenced at the Port Byron Canal Center on the turnpike (but there is a pedestrian entrance from Route 31) I had many options for exploration. I finally decided circling down to Ithaca and around the Finger Lakes pushing it, so I headed to again see Seneca Falls, which I enjoyed in September 2013 – scary almost ten years ago.
Part of the Cayuga-Seneca Barge Canal was on the itinerary for Monday, but on my last visit I did not realize there was a double lock system here, so I found them, and can share Locks 2 and 3 on the Cayuga-Seneca Canal.
heading back to the village, I again had to share with you IT’S A WONDERFUL LIFE BRIDGE, this time from a different angle.
I continued west on Route 20 to Waterloo and stopped at the Memorial Day museum. I visited here also in September 2013. It was in Waterloo that on May 5, 1866, the first Memorial Day exercises were held honoring those who had lost their lives in the War Between the States. Some quick images.
Then heading west again to Geneva where I turned north on Route 14 towards Lyons (trust you got your paper maps out). I was in Lyons in October 2014, and shared with you (great old movie theater), but here are some new images I took there of the lock. We need to learn about this “Peppermint Capital” claim.
From Lyons, east on Route 31 (which remember essentially follows Clinton’s Ditch) towards Clyde. I have always been extremely cognizant of what is along the side of the road, but would you have spotted this?
On private property (not posted, and I live by New Hampshire laws) this is Enlarged Erie Canal Lock No. 53, built in 1841. A second chamber was added in 1874. Some detail below.
One hundred and eighty years old – amazing. During the field trip I listened to “Amazing Ted” recount many of his explorations to find original canal locations. Studying maps and records he will pound on doors and ask permission to traipse through the woods to find Erie Canal remains, but here this was right in front of me. You just have to know what you see and be able to identify it. I am still having too much fun.
I arrived at the PORT BYRON OLD ERIE CANAL HERITAGE PARKabout 12:30, ready to partake in another fun society field trip. And, in time I will share the next day and a half with you. I promise, and I hope I am providing both some learning and enjoyment. As always, luv, RAY
Hey Ray, don’t you have to go somewhere before you travel home? Yes, true, but sometimes it is hard to start writing about an adventure when there is so much I wish to share – and that is the case with the Canal Society of New York State field trip that I joined on 23 and 24 April. Sadly, looking at the dearth of new adventures I have experienced this year, I am ashamed – there have been very few – but I still have kept busy, have projects “in the works,” and have no idea where the time has gone so far in 2023.
This field trip ended at 4:30 on Monday the 24th. Yes, I could have headed east from Auburn, New York and home in five hours, but why? There is always exploring to do. In September 2013, I passed the most pristine upscale village, Skaneateles, at the tip of Skaneateles Lake. Before traveling I had checked for a place to stay Monday night, and I found the Sherwood Inn.
Their professional evening image is nicer than mine below taken from where I parked in front on Route 20. Turning around from that point is this view of the lake. Route 20 is between the Inn and the park on the lake.
The Sherwood Inn has several properties nearby. I chose a room in the Arbor House, which ended up being in the adjoined Carriage House. What a treat to not be in a Holiday Inn (where I was the two previous nights). Remember when you see my side by side images they may be clicked to enlarge.
Since 1807 (a year younger than my home), the Sherwood Inn is so much like my favorite The Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge, Massachusetts. I forgot to take a first floor image, but here is the top of the stairs on the second floor, and my dining spot.
For $9 added to my room price I received a $50 certificate for dinner. I may drive back just to have dinner – amazing, put it on your list. Here is my Sherwood Salad, Pan-Seared Atlantic Pecan Salmon; and , Crème brûlée.
My plan for Tuesday, 25 April, was to follow the CHERRY VALLEY TURNPIKE – Route 20 from Lafayette east to Duanesburg (the end of the designated turnpike) and then onto Albany, and home crossing through Bennington, Vermont. US Route 20 is the longest highway in the US – 3365 miles coast to coast. This stretch began in 1799 as the first Great Western Turnpike and facilitated settlers moving west. Later it became known as the Cherry Valley Turnpike, and in 1926 it received that designation as part of the highway system. In 2006 it became a New York State Scenic Byway – 108 miles.
I swung into Cardiff hoping to find a marker proclaiming the site where the GIANT was found, but alas, small community, and not even a Town Hall, post office, or a person in sight to ask where the discovery was made. At least I have been now to Cardiff. I stopped in Bouckville (the Brimfield of NY State) but sadly was not able to write a single check at the shops. Continuing east, open farmland, small communities (with little in-between each one), and much of the road is on high land with sweeping panoramas. The original road went through now bypassed Cherry Valley (the village) and of course I took the old route.
Continuing on I was pining to find a classic diner for lunch (well, it was pushing 2 PM). And, then in Princetown/Duanesburg I found the CHUCK WAGON DINER, and swung in.
I took my seat
and received my menu
It was so hard to decide – fantastic lunch choices which included soup and potato salad for $10.99. I asked my server for a recommendation between the Chicken Cordon Blue and Patty Melt. “Go for the Patty Melt,” she said, and I did.
I felt I was back in the 1950s, or at CHEERS — everyone who came in knew each other, and had stopped by to visit. I joined in on some of the conversations, and was welcomed – TOO MUCH FUN. A 26 year old server (she announced she turned 26 the day before) was chatting with Frank in his booth. When he left Chris said, “he did not show up for four days, I was about to call his son in North Carolina, and then he came in today at his usual time.” Yes, a friend and I were concerned about another friend, and I almost broke into her house the other day to check – I did not break a window, but now know where a key is hidden.
Across the Hudson River, through Troy, into Bennington, Vermont, no luck at the one remaining antique shop (just tour with me and I can show you where all the shops used to be), and home. In Ray fashion about eight plus hours for a five hour drive. More coming – I have to get you to Auburn, New York, and then have you join me on the Erie Canal field trip. Catch you soon, as always, luv, RAY
Opening not quite three months after I was born, you know I have an affectionate affinity for OLD STURBRIDGE VILLAGE – OSV, and enjoy my visits for special events, or just to stop in when nearby. During CHRISTMAS BY CANDLELIGHT at the village in December, my docent friend Susan said to look for the members’ only announcement for an EVENING OF ILLUMINATION in March. On January 31 the email came in announcing ticket sales, I emailed Emily, she called me back, and guess what? I was the first to book a visit. Surprised? And, at the same time I could experience MAPLE DAYS and SUGAR CAMP – if nothing else, jump below to see what I learned about 1830s sugaring.
From OSV’s website. “How did New England families spend their evenings before the intrusion of texting, telephones, TVs, and computers? Visitors to Old Sturbridge Village will get a rare chance to find out as they tour the historic Village lit only by candles, oil lamps, lanterns, and firelight during Old Sturbridge Village’s “Evening of Illumination.” … Tour the Village Common, where guests can visit select homes and shops to see how early New Englanders spent their evenings in the days before electricity. Visitors will be treated to music and storytelling throughout the tour and will see Village artisans at work by candlelight.”
The sun was almost down at 6:10 when my tour began
In the visitor’s center we were introduced to a number of lighting instruments – candle holders, lanterns, a small oil lamp that sat in a pottery candle holder, but could be removed for use with a candle (small item in center left of table). The crimping on the tin sconces (remember I made two during my Boarding with the Bixbys, and they are proudly hanging on my porch) serves two functions – strengthening of the tin, and additional reflection surfaces to cast light in different directions. The lantern sides on the left in the lower image are made of cow horn instead of glass, or mica as was sometimes used.
It was then a hike to the far end of the Common and the Salem Towne House. Two rooms and the large center hallway were readied. In the hallway you can see from two candles the light amplified by the hanging mirror. We were also told that the varnish on furniture helps the illumination, as does jewelry and silk clothing which have reflective properties. In the dining room the Lustre Ware china also doubles with reflecting the light during mealtime. Just so you know, I never use flash, only available light with my photography.
Back down the Common to the Fitch House to learn about the science of candles and see shadow pictures. Something I have seen here before, but needed the refresher. Candles are solid, and do not burn, heat turns the wax into a liquid, but it is the gases from the liquid wax that feed the flame. I was reminded of The Chemical History of a Candle by Michael Faraday, a six part series on YouTube. This time making a note for myself as I exited, and above now is the link for all of us to learn from – enjoy. There must be something strange on my lens causing those strange blue ghosts from the flames.
back around the corner to the “Small House” the couple shared how an evening would be spent reading a paper, thinking of relatives, and making goodies to eat.
Then to the Friends Meeting House. Singing there, now in its twentieth year, were the Old Sturbridge Village singers. Now, more important learning. You should know that OSV, as a living history museum, portrays New England life in the 1830s, but “Did you know that…” (yes my monthly history article in my newspaper starts that way) the song AMERICA dates from 1832? The group concluded singing AMERICA, and as I was leaving I verified what I heard the conductor say so I could make a note to research and share. I learned that based on an “Old English Air” and the tune GOD SAVE THE KING, the words to AMERICA were written by Samuel Francis Smith in Boston, July 4, 1832, for a children’s celebration. AMERICA served as one of the national anthems of the United States before the adoption of THE STAR SPANGLED BANNER as the official U.S. national anthem in 1931. And, now you also know.
Stops next were at the Richardson House where a woman was practicing fortune telling for an upcoming social. Then the tin shop where I “apprenticed” while Boarding with the Bixbys. The evening ended with a light fare, music and dancing in the Bullard Tavern. While enjoying my fare I watched the keeper making flip – a rum drink heated with a 1200 degree poker from the fire. Tasting some, it needs an acquired taste.
And, leaving for the evening, outside lanterns were accumulating from the guides finishing up with their groups.
The evening was nice, and with my current walking condition, group tours I should put on hold. Groups left every ten minutes, each stop was to be eight minutes for a presentation. A fun almost two hours.
But I was “in my element” Saturday, first visitor when the village opened, and I made all the Maple Days stops having excellent docents all to myself for a great exchange of information. Follow along with me now for this new insight into early sugaring.
Always one of my favorite views entering the village – and just as the back roads I travel, a different view each time of the year.
I headed to the “Goods from the Woods” exhibit area, off the beaten track behind the “new, old” cabinet shop. I never before realized it was there. Heading up the hill, I saw the Sugar Camp.
then back to visit with the fellow boiling the sap – all to myself, no rush, and with all the folks I have chatted with in the village, a knowledgeable and personable chap – sorry I never asked his name. It is a process starting with the sap from the trees, right kettle, as some liquid is boiled off the kettle is moved and a new kettle started.
it was early, chilly, but warm fireside
turning around I saw this tap in a tree. My docent explained how they made the wood tap, and work the top grooves so the sap would not freeze. Care had to be taken to get gravity correct for a flow, and to position the tap to shelter as much from the wind as possible so the sap would not miss the wooden trough below. Intuitive science.
I planned my route to follow the process to the end result of “maple sugar.” At the pottery shop I visited with Caitlyn. I met her in the fall when I visited with volunteer friend, Tony. Caitlyn is a fellow at OSV learning the various trades hoping to someday be on the staff. She showed me how they make the sugar molds. When I read about the sugar molds I was thinking I was going to see molds similar to what are decoratively carved for butter. I was totally wrong. The conical pottery mold is like a flower pot. sloping sides and made with a hole at the bottom. She explained the maple syrup is then poured into the cone with a wood plug at the bottom. As it cools molasses sinks to the bottom and the sugar crystallizes at the top. When hardened the plug is pulled and molasses drains. Turning the cone over the sugar slides out. I also was thinking this a cone, more like a triangle but the sides are just conical to a slight degree so that when turned over and the solid sugar just slides out. More on this later. Below is Caitlyn making a mold and showing it to me close up.
Stopping next at the tin shop I saw graters to be used to break down the cones of sugar (and you were thinking syrup was the end product).
Now is the time to share some information I received with OSV emails (you should sign up – and also join OSV at the NARM level).
“Today, when one thinks of maple, they usually think of maple syrup poured over fresh pancakes or waffles, but in the early 19th century, maple sugar was the ultimate goal – not syrup! Syrup would grow mold easily and therefore, most maple sap was boiled down into sugar, which would last much longer. First, the sap was boiled to produce a thick syrup. Then it was left to cool and settle for a short while, after which it was boiled for a second time in order to produce granulated maple sugar. To keep the contents from boiling over, a small piece of butter or fat was sometimes added.” And some fast facts: The production of maple syrup is one of only a few agricultural processes in North America that is not a European colonial import. Maples are usually tapped beginning between 30 and 40 years of age. Maples can continue to be tapped for sap until they are more than 100 years old. Once temperatures stop fluctuating between below-freezing at night and above-freezing during the day, the sap stops flowing.
without the crowd from the previous night I was able to see the painted tinware that had been discussed. Never learned of this in the shop before. Below are various graters made. BUT IMPORTANT. A new quest for Ray. At the first stop last night was an amazing hanging tin lamp, that could be taken off the hook, set on the table, and adjusted to a pleasing height standing there. Again there was one in the tin shop – first time I ever have seen it. LOOK above and on the right you will see the weighted inverted funnel shaped stand, the adjustable candles, and the hook at the top. Maybe I can commission the Tin Shop to make me one. Below the graters on exhibit.
Was I in luck, George was there with his team. I always have fun with him and learn a great deal. When we were on the road passing the pottery shop heading toward the Freeman Farm he explained that the roadbed cut into the hillside was for a proposed railroad. The line was never completed because the developer went down with the Titanic. George said there was a book called THE TITANIC RAILROAD. You know me, even though a tad expensive, I found and bought a copy for myself, now due in.
GEORGE – One of the reasons to visit and spend time at OSV. A wealth of information from this raconteur as you ride.
In the Fitch House this young man was making band boxes and other small items. He pointed out the fireplace insert which I never noticed before.
And then the final stop – The Small House – to see the final step of the process of the maple syrup cooked down into more desirable sugar loaves. Normally this would be done at the Sugar Camp. This was amazing – and again, the end product desired is not syrup as I quoted above from an OSV email.
below is the syrup mold to soon be filled with the syrup – note the wooden plug at the bottom
then time to boil again, rotating often the molds. As the sugar solidifies, molasses settles out to the bottom.
here you see some molasses drippings at the outside bottom of the mold
and some of the final products – the cones.
above are some finished cones – several of these are a couple years old – and some grated granulated sugar. Hopefully upon looking, you are wondering what I had to ask – why the different cone colors?
well, as the season progresses from early to late, the syrup changes color from light to dark. The cone at the rear would have been the last collection most likely as buds were starting to come out on the trees.
A great two and a half hours, and I learned much, and hope I have shown you something you have not seen and experienced. My phone rang, and David, Mari and Alex were almost at the Publick House – our plan to meet for a special lunch. We were seated early and had a leisurely lunch with fun conversation. As I had (left) when David met me here in December, I again had the salmon plate, although our server said they had changed the manner of preparation. Still great, I skipped supper when I got home.
the kids joined me browsing an antique shop before we said goodby – they heading back to Boston and me backroads home – getting a pair of different candlesticks at a shop in Barre. One last thing to share. I found this in my room at the OSV lodges when I arrived. A special treat from Emily.
Well, make sure to visit Old Sturbridge Village – stay safe and well, as always, luv, RAY
and, one final image that Mari took at lunch at the Publick House – me waving out a candle – did not want to get spittle on the lava cake we were sharing.
Remember “I write to remember,” but also enjoy sharing new experiences. Well, this post is basically for Ray to remember since it was a sedentary “in place” experience without new explorations to share and tempt you. BUT, you may realize that a sedentary escape is also refreshing, and productive, and often needed. My dear Cathy and I always were refreshed from a “day off” out of the shop, or even better “an over-night.” I desire you have two “take aways” from my memories here: 1-treat yourself to a “Change of Scenery” to refresh and refocus and complete some tasks: and, 2-the perfect “Change of Scenery” is one of Landmark Trust USA’s properties – close-by, yet a century away.
I arrived just prior to check in time, again with snow on the ground as with past stays here. Gary and Ilana arrived not long after.
part of the beauty and serenity is looking east back to New Hampshire. Yes, a tad overcast.
I have shared interior views here before, but not the second floor bedrooms. There is something comforting returning to a place that remains the same at a time back in history, and is also impeccably restored, outfitted and maintained. Yes (other than all my collections and businesses) I could easily find myself living at any of Landmark Trust USA’s properties. Touring you below are: the living area, kitchen and dining area, and the bedrooms. Remember you may click these images for larger sizes.
This is the point in my posts where I usually share area explorations to tempt you to experience something new as well. Well, unlike the short drives Gary and I took during the last two stays here, we did not go out but relaxed, read, and “worked.” I had a list of things to “accomplish” that included four cartons of papers to work with, and four books to read (I read half of one).
What was in those cartons that I planned to work with? Well, I will briefly tell you, and maybe that will be another way to share for you to plan a similar “change of scenery.”
1-material to begin research on my next “Did You Know That…” history article 2-all my railroad museum and route information to vicariously travel, but also try to plan the next trip(s) 3-catch up on posts of previous trips I have not yet completed, including: a) getting you to Lake George and cruising Lake George in 2021 (I got this one done); b) complete my Lake – Lock – Long River cruise from Chicago to NYC in 2019. I need to finish the trip down the Hudson River. While organizing those images I got side-tracked (surprised?) in planning new explorations along the Hudson River; and, 3) I did not get to all my paperwork to complete my 2019 cross-country Amtrak train trip – well, excuse (not needed) for another retreat. 4-organize a number of resale items catalogued in my computers to again make available to the world. 5-and, yes, one box had a collection of DVDs (in case) and the projector and DVD player. Portable screen has its own carrying case.
Did it all get done? Of course not. And, I have no idea where the time went, but the two full days were full. During the day we all sort of “did our own things.” Evening meals prolonged with conversation and laughs included: Sunday, lentil loaf Ilana brought; Monday, Indian from down the road (you are isolated here, but close to the other world); and, Tuesday night Gary made chili. From my selection of DVDs Sunday was the all time best ITS A MAD MAD MAD MAD WORLD from 1963. A favorite of mine and Gary, but Ilana had never seen it – she now knows what is great and contributes to how Gary and I “tick.” Monday night’s movie that they found on Prime impressed me so much that I cannot remember the title, but I was there with them, and Tuesday we got back to Hogan’s Heroes from our last visit.
Time too fast, but wonderful, and let the planning begin for the next adventure. I have now written about eight stays at Landmark properties – have had nine stays, but one stay for some reason I did not write about (too busy with friends at Naulakha December 2021), but my pretty good records and posts now document eight of nine, and you may wish to revisit as well. I had driven past Naulakha in Blue Belle first in 2015, went to the Rhododendron open house in 2019 – and that was the beginning.
Thus – RAY RECOMMENDS, you attend an upcoming Landmark open house, and you have two to choose from to get you hooked as well. – Catch you soon, and maybe I will see you at one of the open house events – luv, RAY
Shunpiking with Ray 