Shunpiking with Ray

I arrived home Monday morning, the 23^rd, after walking my grandson Alex to school in Massachusetts.  There was freezing rain, and Monday’s rehearsal for MURDER STAGE RIGHT was cancelled.  I face so many things I want to do, to read, to play with, but first I want to conclude this most phenomenal trip that has opened my eyes to “see the USA” not necessarily in a Chevrolet.  (does that phrase date me?)

The Friday morning discussion session was cut short when the shuttle driver arrived advising that the two hour trip from Bozeman took three hours due to road conditions.  We had our own rental car, but the others decided to leave to make sure to make plane connections.  Scott, Betty, Rich and I stay and chatted with Lee, the instructor, for awhile, and then packed.  We toured West Yellowstone a bit more, and Betty and I went into the

Inside this fabulous original train car

Holiday Inn to view the original 1903 rail car from the Oregon Short Line, so named because it was the shortest distance between Oregon and Wyoming, which is housed inside. This mini museum shows how people traveled on railroads and has all original furniture and appointments.  It is fabulous.  We then headed back down the one road to Bozeman to our B&B – the Voss Inn.   Built in 1883 (Bozeman was first settled in 1864 and incorporated in 1883) the B&B was exceptional.  Recent visitors have included Steven Seagal, Al Gore, and Buzz Aldrin.  Bruce and Frankie do an exceptional job, and Bruce’s breakfasts

The Voss Inn at night

surpassed gourmet.  On our last day there he enjoyed relating tales of both Seagal’s and Aldrin’s visits after Rich asked about the signed photos on the wall. 

On Friday late afternoon once we checked in we walked the three blocks to the Main Street of Bozeman.  How impressive the town is, particularly the main street which has wonderful buildings dating to the late 19^th century and a fine collection of buildings with Art Deco facades.  Nothing has been ruined in this town which is the 4^th largest city/town in Montana with about 37,000 residents, about a third larger than my neighboring Keene.  And the shops’ windows are absolutely “eye candy” with unique hand-crafted gifts, fashions, art galleries

Typical Bozeman windowfront

and night spots and restaurants.  Yes it helps to have a college in town, but I feel Bozeman deserves another visit someday.  That evening we decided to have dinner at Ted’s Montana Grill , yes founded by Ted Turner.  He has 100s of thousands of acres throughout the West, and raises Bison.  Betty and I enjoyed the Bison meatloaf, and Rich had a Bison steak – Scott for some reason only had a burger.  It was a busy place, and at least we can say that we were there.  We returned to the Voss Inn and enjoyed conversation in the parlor.

Saturday at breakfast we had a fun time with a family from California that arrived too late to drive to their condo in Big Sky.  That is one of the joys of B&Bs – sharing with total strangers who also enjoy the ambience and uniqueness of the experience.  After breakfast the plan was to head to Bohart Ranch Cross Country Ski Center 16 miles out of town in the mountains.  All night a voice kept telling me not to ski because it was going to be too fast and dangerous, and I had had a wonderful time without injury – so be safe!  I debated back and forth, but choose not to ski, but journeyed up the mountain with book in hand while the others enjoyed skiing.  Well, I never got to a single page because in moments Betty returned exclaiming, “too fast and scary!”  We sat down to talk, and in moments saw Scott and Rich returning.  Ends up they too found it fast, and dangerous with inclines more than we have experienced in New England, and in addition you could not see what was around the corners other than steep drop offs.  They turned in their rented skis and we headed back to town.  I had read about the Gallatin County Historical Society Pioneer Museum in the old county jail built in 1911.  WOW – I love museums, and this one is exceptional, and we all enjoyed it (so important when travelling with others to have the same interests).  Besides retaining some of the original jail features with some cells, solitary confinement

Through the jailor's Peekhole into a cell.

(called Siberia) and the gallows (only used once) the historical exhibits on the development of the area and early exploration are noteworthy.  So much so that I came out convinced that I will read more about Montana and will visit again this year. Just as I said the Bozeman airport is worth the visit, go to this museum too for double enjoyment of the trip – BUT, then add our dinner experience Saturday night.

Cathy and I always asked our B&B hosts, “where would you have dinner.”  Well, Frankie gave me choice one and two – Looie’s Down Under   or John Bozeman’s Bistro, and she had old menus there.  I took a look and there was no question – Looie’s was my choice, and when I shared that with the others they agreed.   We arrived and were seated at 6:30, and our treat concluded three hours later.  A third reason to visit Bozeman we all agreed. 

My Halibut - OUTSTANDING

Frankie had recommended Halibut, and there was a Halibut special that Betty and I both had.  Between appetizers, salad, and our main course only Rich ventured forward with desert – Baked Alaska, and here he is looking like a King as it was ceremoniously presented to him.

King Rich and his Baked Alaska

Just too much fun.  The four of agreed the last several days that everything, absolutely everything went just perfectly with this trip and experience, and we were all sad to see it

Breakfast our last day at the Voss Inn. Rich and me, seated Scott and Betty

end.  Following breakfast on Sunday we walked downtown again because I saw a book on Glacier Park in the window of the news stand that I wanted to get.  I actually bought 3 books as a result, not to mention 4 or 5 more at the museum on Saturday – a nice and safe addiction to have.  It was then time to head to the airport for our flight.

BOZEMAN Panorama - Town 6 miles behind us, airport 3 miles ahead. Click on image for full effect, but please come back.

I am almost at a loss as to what else to share.  I can tell you that I will begin working on my train trip to Glacier Park in Montana because it is such as fabulous area.  Scott is planning to retire later this year and he and Betty too cannot wait to head to Montana in their Airstream.  I already have an invitation to fly out and join them (I said I would sleep under the trailer to not be in the way).  Some other “lessons learned”:  with the airlines charging for checked luggage what people carry on has caused a problem as I have never had to put something under the seat in front of me before with the overhead areas full; second, don’t get sidetracked because you may leave your book on the plane (THE LONGEST NIGHT – THE BOMBING OF LONDON, MAY 10, 1941) but I will find another copy.  I spend time thinking (happens when no one to talk to), and on the flight home I realized that my life is now in equal thirds:  first growing up and schooling; then my Navy career; and last bookseller following retirement from the Navy.  So, what happens next when I divide my time into fourths and then fifths?  I do know it will be travel for awhile, so continue to read as I cross the Atlantic, get to Northern Ireland, cross the US by train and get to Glacier National Park; and I still need Africa and South America to have been on all seven continents.  Oh, too much fun.  Catch you soon, thanks for travelling with me, as always, yours, RAY

We awoke on Wednesday to long overdue snow for the area, and it has been fierce and unabated all day with howling winds causing amazing drifts.  Something else I had failed to mention was the difference in the snow here as compared to home.  In the East we usually have wet and heavy snows, but here it is relatively dry and the snow is a fine powder, thus with the wind we approach “white-out” conditions.  In the morning Lee continued discussing the fascinating geology of the area and the various thermal features including hot pools, geysers, steam vents, mud pots, etc. and how they come about from the magnum of the earth.  This reminds me of my touring similar areas in Iceland in November 2010 – another place that deserves a longer visit again very soon. 

Following lunch we picked up cross country skis and went to an entrance in town to the

Yes, this is me on a very snowy XC-Ski afternoon

Gallatin National Forest.  The snow by this time was really getting heavy.  It was quite different skiing as compared to the groomed trails I have been on in VT and NH.  We were skiing through ungroomed powdery snow, and as the 3 hours and 3 plus miles passed the snow we had to plow through got deeper and deeper.  Done at 5 PM, dinner at 6 followed by some more discussion on geology and the animals of the park.  The snow storm began to intensify and the winds picked up.  I heard that there were up to 8 inches last evening, but with the winds it moved around and drifted at great deal.

Thursday, our last full day, started early since we had to be at the snowmobile place at 8AM to get fitted with suits and get instruction for our tour into the park to Old Faithful.  If I have not mentioned it before, you cannot access the park at this time of year except by Snow Coach or Snowmobile.  The snow and winds were so bad there was a question as to whether the West Entrance to the park would open or not, but fortunately it did open by about 9, and off we went for what ended up being a 65 mile excursion until 5 PM.  We struck out towards Madison Junction were we turned south towards Old Faithful.  I drove all day with a lady who chose not to drive.  It was intense steering requiring attention at all times, and I think that as a passenger you can enjoy the scenery and nature more on a snowmobile. 

All of a sudden strolling along the Madison River to our right in the snow was a coyote –

Coyote - just feet away without telephoto lens

not something you usually see.  Following the Firehole River (supposedly named years past because of the thermal activity surrounding the river) we took a side route along the remote Firehole Canyon Drive with its views and waterfalls (oh, what a TR3A road!!!)

Firehole Falls

Instead of heading straight to Old Faithful and eating we opted to tour the  Lower Geyser Basin and Fountain Paint Pot.  Our guide, Michelle, told us to take our day packs and backpacks with our lunches because the ravens are very talented and can open zippers, Velcro, etc. to get food.  We fooled them, but right on the controls of my machine one had pooped, probably in anger. Here you can see in an enjoyable walk (even in the winter)

Silex Spring - a beautiful blue

all the types of thermal activities: hot pools, geysers, steam vents and mud pots. 

 

 

The Fountain Paint Pots

 A fascinating place, and I encourage you to read more about it.  And, before I forget, it was great not having crowds to view all that we saw, plus I do think that what we saw was easier to see on the white snow background even though it was overcast, and snowing all the time we were in the park. 

Leaving this area we soon came upon a herd of Bison in the road, and the pictures will tell the story.  We stopped, of course, to see where they were headed. 

BISON AHEAD !!!

Our guide eventually said that we should continue on close together and keep on going.  Nice plan, but the Bison did not cooperate and we had to stop while they charged at each other for awhile.  Soon an opening occurred and we got past as they finally moved off into the field. 

View from my snowmobile !!!

Arriving in the Old Faithful area we parked near a group of three yurts for people in the winter to have their lunches.  We had just a short time to wait for Old Faithful, but all of a sudden the Beehive Geyser became active – a treat since it is not predictable as Old Faithful is.  I figured that I had to give you an image of Old Faithful, so I went a tad further, and here is a 3 minute video that you can watch (but you do not have to watch it all).  Remember it was overcast, terribly windy (you will hear the wind) but very few get to experience this in winter, and our guide said that in the summer with the crowds it is hard to see and hear, so enjoy – just click on the image and start the video.

Leaving the Old Faithful area it was going to be a straight run back in hopes of finding more wildlife, but little was to be seen.  We did spend some time watching a Bison herd that we saw the other day with the Snow Coach, and just as we were leaving I remembered my IPodTouch with the panorama app – so quickly started shooting.  Click on the image below for the full effect.

Panorama of Bison off in the fields - click on image for full effect, but do come back>

Well, this evening as I have been working with images and chatting with Rich, Scott and Betty we are just so thrilled with how smoothly and wonderfully these past few days have been.  This has been a truly remarkable, unique and memorable trip.  Tomorrow morning we will have a few more hours of discussion and then the 16 attendees head off on their own ways.  We head back to Bozeman, and I may “blog” one more time.  I feel as though I have not provided as much education on this trip as on others, but the pictures do speak volumes, and I am so pleased that I made this trip.

What ever you say -- no arguements !!!

Often pictures speak volumes, so tonight I am mainly going to give you an idea in picture of the last two days.  Monday morning we began with an ecology and geology lecture to get an idea and appreciation of the vast territory of Yellowstone National Park.  Lee, who retired 5 years ago from the Forestry service, is our instructor. He had always wanted to teach, and is passionate about what he has learned and has a wonderful way to impart knowledge to us.  In the afternoon we then snowshoed 5.5 miles out into the park and along the Madison River. 

Snowshoeing along the Madison River

Good exercise, especially at 6,800 feet in elevation.  This area of the park suffered fire in 1988 and the Lodge Pole Pines have begun to grow back, but since there is only about 60 days of growth time each year it is a long process.  Along the walk we learned more about the trees, and the only sign of wildlife we saw was where elk had fed around some trees. 

Today’s experience was something not many people do.  There are about 3 million visitors to the park in the summer, and about 160,000 in the winter we learned from our guide, Mike Bryers, from the Aplen Guides when he began our tour in a 1956 Bombardier – “Kitty”.  What a vintage way to tour the park. 

Mike arrives in Kitty, a 1956 Bombardier, to pick us up.

Originally designed and built in the 1930s for the Canadian Army to move troops in Canada in case of war you will enjoy the complete history on the Yellowstone Alpen Guide website.  Mike has spent his entire life in the area guiding folks in many different capacities and adventures and it was interesting to get his perspective on many park issues from a native’s viewpoint. He is also quite an artist, and you may wish to see his website for park related scenes. 

Our 95 mile excursion (Rich tracks our routes using GPS) began at the West Entrance to the Park (where we are staying) to Madison and then to the Canyon area within the Caldera Boundary.  Remember that Yellowstone is one of the world’s most active geothermal areas and the features of the terrain are the results of early volcanic action and lava flows.  Mike pointed out the features formed as a result, some hot springs, steam holes and more.  Our furthest point out was the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone along the Yellowstone River, and I tried my second panorama shot there (still need to learn how to use this software), so please for the full effect click on the image below, but do come back.

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone - click on image for the full effect, but do come back.

Besides the vast scenery we were fortunate to see much wildlife and stop and see them in their habitat.  Other than wolves, we pretty much saw what you would expect to see, and here are just a few of the shots I took:

Further down the road was this view of a waterfall that I want to share: 

Breathtaking Waterfall

 

And of all the critters you would expect (or at least like to see) are a Bald Eagle and Elk.  This elk was right alongside the river grazing.

 

 

 

I have so many more images, Betty takes wonderful and 100’s of images, Scott has a much longer telephoto lens than I have, and Rich has many toys to get great shots.  Eventually we will share to create a top-notch album, but for now, Good Night from Yellowstone Park in Winter.